66/200-250s/ARP B-TAP?

TxCTD0159

MOOSE POWAA!!!
Joined
Mar 30, 2012
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Hey guys got a couple very important questions I need clarified. As always I have beaten the hell out of the search button. *bdh*

This weekend ol girl is going under the knife and upgrading to an unusual custom 66. It will be basically a BW 66/73 with a bullseye non gated T3 .70 A/R (12cm) housing on it for a fast spooler. That is all set in stone just wanted to clarify background info

QUESTIONS:
1. I dont wanna start a war here but im absolutely torn between DAP & CPP injectors would just like a little input (both great companies dealt with JKIDD awesome guy).

2. More importantly injector size! I originally thought 200s would suffice but after reading I get the impression 200s wont get the full potential out of the 66 and id be better going with 250s. ON THE FLIP SIDE, I feel like that .7 A/R housing will be screaming with 250s and be better off with 200s. I just dont know guys. Side note the search button taught me that a stock injector body is only good up to 150hp nozzles after that its hot smokey worthless thank the lord I found that out, I was going to buy 200hp nozzles and now full bodies are a must! Dodging bullets!

3. ARP 425s and bottom tapping, I read a couple major threads and realize there is a huge debate on pulling the head or one by one. I will be doing one by one for sure my question is will it be that much more worthwhile bottom tapping for the ARPs? I know h11s have to be because of the bottom nub and they are longer (did my hw) but a number of trust worthy sources have stated it wasnt necessary to bottom tap with ARPs. Of course bottom tapping is preferred. but yalls thoughts?

Lastly id just like to hear yalls opinions on all aspects of the goodies going on very soon! shooting to get "close" to 600hp. Opinions on the setup, turbo, stix, all of it :thankyou2:

TIA,
Dakotah
 
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At least 250's, we run 300's in the work truck currently with a stock hx-35 and with the comp box on 1 it is perfectly manageable.

With that tight of a housing and non gated, do you have an external gate?

I would bottom tap just for the peace of mind.
 
No external gate and thats what made me realize along with advice from others on another forum that the.7 and no gate is too risky to blowin up the turbo. Back to the drawing board I guess. What would be an ideal setup running a non gated turbo and no external as well? I ask because the non gated BW for example are very cheap and I am on a very tight budget!
 
Very tight budget and 600hp really don't mix well.

With that being said an S468 with the T4 1.1 housing that it comes with should be able to do it without over speeding it. It obviously won't be as responsive as your original goal, but I have seen them brand new for under $1000.
 
hahaha I know very true! well If I had an external gate that original setup would be pretty solid! and a s468 with a 1.1 I dont think my tiny lil vp would be able to spool it till 2300+ rpms!
 
unfortunately! How would you think 250s and a 66/73/.91 t4 divided would spool?
 
I never bottom tapped the studs on my truck and I had over 220k miles on it when I sold it and it was the original headgasket. Saw anywhere from 20-55psi for 220k miles on a daily basis and got sprayed with water/meth as well. No issues.
 
I never bottom tapped the studs on my truck and I had over 220k miles on it when I sold it and it was the original headgasket. Saw anywhere from 20-55psi for 220k miles on a daily basis and got sprayed with water/meth as well. No issues.

Ya thats what I keep hearing, I understand its peace of mind and preferred but I just dont have the time, patience. BgBlDodge whats your take on all of this? budget non gated turbo choices? all input is welcome!
 
UPDATES***

Well off to a late start as usual but we are committed at this point! Got a good chunk done today but still have a ways to go. I pulled off the turbo which was always fun getting off the manifold, once off I discovered one of the sources of my spooling problem... Pics below there was a nut MISSING on one stud I wont say names of who installed it but still... well the Metal gasket was torn to shreds on the corner major leak! After that had my builder go ahead and start the rebuild while I tore down the intake horn, injector lines (gently pulled out of the way), pulled crossovers (which I have a question on for yall), hold downs and finally all the injectors. Lucky for me a guy passing buy the shop asked what size they were and immediately took the ol FBD 100s off my hands for a good price plus cores! And thats how she sits.

Next step I still have to wait till monday and order some 240hp injectors from JKIDD and a t3-t4 adapter, start the real fun installing ARPs, bolt up turbo, modify downpipe and intercooler routing. While the truck is down we are also going to finally paint my valvecover (which looks pitiful to say the least) and install a new Intake horn as well! Lat but not least after 3 years I have finally decided to ditch my 6" black dual mitre cut stacks even with the cab and go back to a rear exit 5" exhaust with a 6" black tip! Shes Cummin along!

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These crossover tubes look like they got hot im assuming can yall shed some light on this? Truck never exceeded 1500 deg. only on a long highway pull
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What do you plan on doing with this? Sled, drag, or dd? I might of missed it, but either way you will probably be alright at your elevation. The 66 and 72 at my elevation are laggy and I had 7x12 injectors which are in the range your looking at. You would probably like a .80 gated housing better than that .70.
 
What do you plan on doing with this? Sled, drag, or dd? I might of missed it, but either way you will probably be alright at your elevation. The 66 and 72 at my elevation are laggy and I had 7x12 injectors which are in the range your looking at. You would probably like a .80 gated housing better than that .70.

Elevation is one thing we have the upper hand in here in Texas! Sorry I forgot to update certain details on this thread between forums Ive actually decided against the .7 t3 housing from bullseye as Im too nervous of popping it, the 66 comes with a .91 t4 which I know is huge roughly 16cm we are going to try that first as an experiment if not ill add a spool valve or try another housing! The gated housing is currently out of budget. I know the elevation difference but would you rather go 66/73/.91 and 7x12s or 7x14s?
 
i would stay with the 7x12's on the 66. make sure that if your gonna look into the the spool flange that you make sure you have a divided housing. i know the 72 had the .91 housing on it and tyler loved it down in texas but up here it was just too slow spooling for me to be DD. are you running a T3 or T4 manifold on? i would probably try to stay T3 if you can.
 
Thanks for the advice! I actually just got a solid offer on some DDP 7x12s I will most likely take. and yes its the .91 divided housing, Im currently running the stock manifold i know i know but I was going to upgrade after funds got back up to a t4 with a spool valve built by D squared. Why would you say stay with t3?
 
Imo its cheaper than doing the t4 and flange and you keep your drive pressure up some to spool the bigger charger. It hurt me hanging the t4 and an undivided housing. You might be alright being at your elevation. Port the stock one for now and you will be fine til funds build back up
 
good point see I am a mechanical engineer at UTSA and look at it from a certain view point. I view the t3 manifold to t4 turbo kind of like a water hose with a nozzle there is more pressure there but if I went with a bigger hose and nozzle there wouldnt be as much pressure and thus not as much dp spinning the turbine. Some refuse to agree but thats the way I imagine it. The only problematic variable in that equation is heat. For that I guess we shall see!
 
Port your stock manifold in the collector area, open the t3 divided ports up to almost the gasket, you will see quicker spooling and slightly lower egts. Anything to get exhaust out while you are cramming more air in will help.
 
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