66mm in a twin setup on a common rail?

Out Back 4x4

Out Back 4x4

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Currently running a comp 66 from HTT as a single with a 6.7 cp3 and 150 hp injectors. Was wondering if it could be used in a twin setup on a 6speed 2003 truck with my new 100% over exergy injectors and dual cp3s. Planning on daily driving (for the most part) and wondering how the spool up will be. I'm just trying to see if I can use it or not. If spool up and driveability will be an issue, what should I use as my setup?

Thanks guys. Searched old threads and thought I'd bring back up the issue.
 
Run as a secondary to a billet low pressure s480, s483, or s488 will be a great combo capable of 950+HP.

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
Run as a secondary to a billet low pressure s480, s483, or s488 will be a great combo capable of 950+HP.

Lavon
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That's what I was going to say next. Starting with a 66mm secondary and throwing an s480 under it would be on the high end of the power spectrum for a daily driven truck with that fuel. If you can support the power and you are not affraid to break parts, go for it.
 
I was planning a 66/74 over a 88/96. Shooting for 1000hp on fuel. Im hoping good port work and a 188/220 cam will keep it streetable.

If not it will pull like a mofo'ing train!!! On the track of course haha

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
 
Isn't the general rule of thumb that your primary should move twice as much as your secondary?

So most S480s move what...~120lbs/min
S482s move about ~130lbs/min

Using a good 66 moves ~80lbs/min

Isn't the 66 gonna be too big?
 
Extended Power said:
Isn't the general rule of thumb that your primary should move twice as much as your secondary?

So most S480s move what...~120lbs/min
S482s move about ~130lbs/min

Using a good 66 moves ~80lbs/min

Isn't the 66 gonna be too big?
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My understanding is that spool is not going to be very streetable with a 66mm secondary.. but once the turbos light you will see the truck pull very hard..

Basically a drag truck haha
 
The spool can't be any worse then driving with a single 66. You can always do a cam to help the lower end rpm's
 
jkidd_39 said:
My understanding is that spool is not going to be very streetable with a 66mm secondary.. but once the turbos light you will see the truck pull very hard..

Basically a drag truck haha
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The spool can be very streetable with a 66mm secondary IMO. Probably not ideal for towing heavy on a daily basis, but streetable nonetheless.
 
coon smile said:
The spool can be very streetable with a 66mm secondary IMO. Probably not ideal for towing heavy on a daily basis, but streetable nonetheless.
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Ill tell ya when i get my truck done haha

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I run a 66/16ss over a 488/96, and drive it on the street. I started out with a 480 primary, but the 488 works much better. I could not tell a difference in spool between the to either. It dyno'd last fall at 1015hp corrected (1040 uncorrected), on fuel only.

At the track earlier this year, we did some data logging, and launching at 15psi, it hit 60psi (total boost) in 1.2 seconds. Pretty good spool in my book.

If I only drove it on the street, I might go with something smaller. Probably not though! :lolly:

Paul
 
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Are you running a billet wheel in the 88? Or is that the only option to gettin an 88?

If the 80 was a cast wheel, and the 88 a billet...maybe the weight difference helped retain the spool up.

Both running 96/1.32 exhaust housings as well?
 
Billet wheels are on average heavier.... Unless it varies from a cast design which most dont.

The way I look at it the closer turbos are in size to one another the more peak power you will make, the further apart and you will have a bigger/smoother power-band. Granted there is a lot more to it but that's what I have seen as a general rule.
 
Lostnwalmart said:
Billet wheels are on average heavier.... Unless it varies from a cast design which most dont.

The way I look at it the closer turbos are in size to one another the more peak power you will make, the further apart and you will have a bigger/smoother power-band. Granted there is a lot more to it but that's what I have seen as a general rule.
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I was under the impression that the billet wheels were lighter, because they usually have 1 or 2 less blades, and moved more air overall.:charger:
 
The advantage of a billet wheel is you can make more aggressive pitch angles on your wheel and they are more durable in regards to contamination(dirt,foreign matter).

The reason pol get all excited about them is they can be made in relatively small quantities. If you wanna cast your own wheels you probably gotta buy 25k to justify the tooling costs.

So effectively you get this idea of rarity when its actually just an economical reality. Hence the batmowheel.

Can a billet wheel be better than a cast yes. But better how is the question to ask.

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Exactly, the worst is when a company charges hundreds more for a billet wheel but it has the exact same demensions as a cast wheel. Which happens more than people like to admit. The Billet wheel will be stronger but it won't be lighter due to the metallurgy, the billet wheel is denser than a cast wheel which has small pores/air pockets. However this only applies if the wheel is made to the same specs, but it's hard to know if it's not for the average person (I'm in this group as well) And we have to trust the guy we are buying from, so buy from some one you trust and knows turbos.
 
Cliff, have you seen them actually weigh more?? I've seen most billet being. 10-15 grams lighter. But that's not enough to justify the "claims" some companies throw out there
 
Jose at forced inductions had a picture of two identical wheels on scales side by side and the billet was heavier. Granted its only a 2-4 gram difference but there is a difference. I have been trying to ding the picture but there are quite a few posts on this site to dig through LOL
 
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