68RFE Temp Issue

my 13 does (did) have the thermal bypass. However before I removed the valve and installed a deep pan my temps towing a 15K 5er were always in the range your seeing now. 170-180 cruising and would get up to 220-230 on a cool-hot day towing in stop and go traffic or going slow thru the mountains. Would come down right away once cruising again. Thought these were pretty standard temps while towing

How are the temps now that you removed that valve?
 
I believe yours takes the -01k

Ok, I went back out to try and identify the parts. My cooler is different than the one in the diagram showing the bypass valve. The image I have attached is what is installed in my truck. It is a trans cooler/AC condenser combo, the red arrows show the connection from the transmission, the hard lines go from these connections all the way to the trans with nothing in between. I don't see anywhere on the trans cooler portion where that valve would be installed.
 

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There has to be a thermostat somewhere in the factory system. Though from others, sounds like these temperatures are normal for factory trucks.

I truly dislike the fact that trans fluid and freon share the same cooler. My 2014 gas engine chevy has that. I added a separate trans cooler but it still routes through the condenser. Biggest temp drop I saw on that truck was when I removed the thermostat.
 
If there is a factory stat in the trans line I wish someone could show me where it is at cause I cannot locate it, hard lines from tranny to cooler with nothing in between. If there is a stat it is either in the tranny itself or inside the cooler and I don't see where or how that could be.

I had a local shop tell me that the trans cooler design on this is a major issue and they recommend adding a stand alone trans cooler and fan and just leave the stock cooler unused. Just don't want to throw money at this unit without knowing if it will help. If it is need of a rebuild then so be it, just don't want to guess and end up spending more money than needed.
 
Now why in the world would you ask that? :hehe: :hehe:

LOL,yes it has.

who changes transmission fluid...thats like rears fluid..good forever unless it leaking out....thats just a waste of money..makes a mess and a pita too

I wasn't poking at Jorys maintenance practices.
We had a high mileage Dodge in the shop awhile back with transmission temp issues and the fluid and filter change was the ticket. The OP didn't mention that it had been serviced, so...
 
How are the temps now that you removed that valve?

Much lower, cruising now loaded up I am 125-140. Hottest I have seen so far is 175 towing 17K thru the mountains and not getting above 3rd gear. Truck running empty down the road averages 120ish.
 
Much lower, cruising now loaded up I am 125-140. Hottest I have seen so far is 175 towing 17K thru the mountains and not getting above 3rd gear. Truck running empty down the road averages 120ish.

Appears to be a legit improvement. Thx
 
well shiz..ill take this outta mine too then..where is it in a 2020....its inline aint it..gotta buy that kit?
 
There has to be a thermostat somewhere in the factory system. Though from others, sounds like these temperatures are normal for factory trucks.

I truly dislike the fact that trans fluid and freon share the same cooler. My 2014 gas engine chevy has that. I added a separate trans cooler but it still routes through the condenser. Biggest temp drop I saw on that truck was when I removed the thermostat.

The GM vehicles that have the condenser and trans cooler combined like yours develop a freon leak all the time where the two cores meet. On the trans cooler inlet side. GM updated the design to include a little heat shield over that spot to keep the temp difference lower, by decreasing airflow over that portion.

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well shiz..ill take this outta mine too then..where is it in a 2020....its inline aint it..gotta buy that kit?

I think it's inline on the passenger side basically behind the front tire. That's the piece everyone is selling it seems like.

On another note. To me the 07.5-12 with the 3.73 factory gears had more of a chance of surviving than the 13-18 with 3.42 factory gears. Tuners tried to tune in good drivablility with poor gears and a slushy trans and it equated to alot of failures, which high line pressure and low rpms seemed to enchant valve body leaks. Not the tuners fault, when what they had to work with was subpar equipment. I could be off, but just my personal opinion
 
I think it's inline on the passenger side basically behind the front tire. That's the piece everyone is selling it seems like.

On another note. To me the 07.5-12 with the 3.73 factory gears had more of a chance of surviving than the 13-18 with 3.42 factory gears. Tuners tried to tune in good drivablility with poor gears and a slushy trans and it equated to alot of failures, which high line pressure and low rpms seemed to enchant valve body leaks. Not the tuners fault, when what they had to work with was subpar equipment. I could be off, but just my personal opinion


Subpar is putting it nicely.


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well shiz..ill take this outta mine too then..where is it in a 2020....its inline aint it..gotta buy that kit?

Passenger side of the truck, between trans pan and tire (mine was right next to the pan). When i did mine i just timed it up with fluid and filter change. That being said have some extra fluid on hand to top off what you lose if your not draining it.
 
Guess I might have to look into this as well. I will echo the same temps when towing. I had to take a detour in Missouri last year and couldn't go fast enough to get the convertor locked. Don't remember the exact temp it got to but I was nervous.
 
If there is a factory stat in the trans line I wish someone could show me where it is at cause I cannot locate it, hard lines from tranny to cooler with nothing in between. If there is a stat it is either in the tranny itself or inside the cooler and I don't see where or how that could be.

I had a local shop tell me that the trans cooler design on this is a major issue and they recommend adding a stand alone trans cooler and fan and just leave the stock cooler unused. Just don't want to throw money at this unit without knowing if it will help. If it is need of a rebuild then so be it, just don't want to guess and end up spending more money than needed.

Ever get any where on this? Was seeing 200 last Friday pulling my 5th wheel and renewed my interest.
 
Ever get any where on this? Was seeing 200 last Friday pulling my 5th wheel and renewed my interest.

I haven't had a chance to go any further with mine yet. Planning on starting with a fresh fluid and filter change along with a deep sump pan. If that doesn't get it I will replace the factory trans cooler and maybe add a remote cooler and fan. Plan on adding updates at each step.
 
The deep pan's not going to help you with temps. It will take longer to heat up, but it will also take longer to cool down.
 
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