700hp?

Diesel92

New member
Setup is 230 p pump with 7mm DV 5ks 188/220 cam 5x16s and a built he351 over a race 475 fully built 12v head and block to handle over 1000 HP and 5k rpms. Just curious to see if anyone has ever made 700 HP with a close to the same set up ?
 
700 with a 351 as a top turbo will be a bit on the warm side egt wise. Search around.
 
700 with a 351 as a top turbo will be a bit on the warm side egt wise. Search around.

Mine never got over 1300 with a 78 or the gt4202. Depends on the primary I think more than anything. And fuel tuning. If you run it like a smokey pig, she'll probably get hot lol.
 
No I will take my time and tune the AFC find good timing I was just curious to see if 700 has been made with 60 mm secondery and a 75 mm primary on a 12v I'd love to find that thread though I still haven't found it
 
I'm running similar air/fuel. he351 over gt4202, 5x.016's, benched 180 pump, comp cuts, stock cam (had 181/210 before), stock head.

Doesn't matter how heavy the load is, it reacts the same. temps spike to 1000, then slowly level off around 1200 on the longer hills. Temps only spike because I have so much pre-boost to get it to fire when cranking. Smaller injectors would help a lot, but I don't want to go smaller. I think I could also go to a slightly larger housing on the garrett, but it spools so fast and pulls decent, so I'm just going to leave it be.

1/4 mile sees 1500-1700, depends on weather and how well it decides to run that day.
 
Preboost to fire when cranking?

If I back the preboost all the way back to cut down smoke, it won't fuel enough to fire, and you can feel it through the pedal. It has zero travel. So I have to keep the pre-boost turned in a little (or slide the AFC up a hair, but pre boost is a little easier to dial in) so it will fire, but then its got a good puff until the turbos start to do their thing. I've been told that just comes with having more fuel.
 
Last edited:
During cranking the pump should go into full rack.

I've heard that too, but how does the pump know when it's cranking? And how would it go full rack with the AFC arm in the way?

Sorry for the derail OP. If anyone can shed some new light on this for me, please PM me.
 
I would think the foot might need adjusted the govener would be the only thing that tells the pump its cranking at low rpm it will move the rack to start or keep it running under load this is what I'm getting from all the reading and tinkering I have been doing some one correct me if I'm wrong?
 
I would think the foot might need adjusted the govener would be the only thing that tells the pump its cranking at low rpm it will move the rack to start or keep it running under load this is what I'm getting from all the reading and tinkering I have been doing some one correct me if I'm wrong?

So at low rpm it allows the rack to go under the afc foot? Too me it looked like the rack is fixed, and only able to go forward and back. I have no idea though, I'm just going off pictures and videos of tear downs. If I move the afc foot forward more, it allows it to start easier, but just makes it smokier before boost.
 
If I back the preboost all the way back to cut down smoke, it won't fuel enough to fire, and you can feel it through the pedal. It has zero travel. So I have to keep the pre-boost turned in a little (or slide the AFC up a hair, but pre boost is a little easier to dial in) so it will fire, but then its got a good puff until the turbos start to do their thing. I've been told that just comes with having more fuel.

My benched 215 is the same way. Man is it touchy too.
 
The governor arm falls under the foot. And it can be adjusted. I had a pump once that always liked a couple pumps of the throttle before starting. Think carbed gas engine. Allows the linkage to reset and drop.
 
The governor arm falls under the foot. And it can be adjusted. I had a pump once that always liked a couple pumps of the throttle before starting. Think carbed gas engine. Allows the linkage to reset and drop.


This is true I can post pictures of the Bosch manual if you would like .
 
During cranking the pump should go into full rack.

Not sure I believe that fully. It might have the capability of slipping under the AFC arm and going to full rack at 0 rpm if you apply pressure to the pedal, but I think even as soon as the starter spins up to 300 rpm or so, it's back behind the foot.

Whenever my truck has been hard to start, even the slightest amount of pedal pressure has made it cough and RPMs jump more, meaning the rack has much more travel to go.
 
Not sure I believe that fully. It might have the capability of slipping under the AFC arm and going to full rack at 0 rpm if you apply pressure to the pedal, but I think even as soon as the starter spins up to 300 rpm or so, it's back behind the foot.

Whenever my truck has been hard to start, even the slightest amount of pedal pressure has made it cough and RPMs jump more, meaning the rack has much more travel to go.

From what I recall, when we ran pumps on the stand they went to full rack. They might just hit the plate though. Reviewing an old 911 pump I did, it shows 11.7mm of rack @ 157cc'ss during cranking. 100rpm(half of engine speed). I'll try to get back with verified info at a later date. Been 5.5 year since I've worked at a pump shop. Feeling a little rusty going back through my notes and it looking like Greek.
 
Ok. I've had the afc arm all the way up and down, still doesn't get full throttle during cranking. It does help though if i blip the throttle against the afc arm though, that .xxxmm of travel is just enough to get it to fire.
 
Back
Top