94 12 valve build

A

alex211

Durability Tester
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
148
Picked up a 94 12 valve nv4500 4x4 truck for $7500 about a month ago, has 130k on it.

Looked like this when I got it.

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First step was a set of 285s.

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Mods so far are 4" dp into a 5", 3k gsk, no plate, afc full forward, star wheel backed off, timed at 17, wh1c has a non wastegated exhaust housing, modded stock air box to draw air from cowl.

Has a boost and pyro gauge, way it's setup right now hits 39psi of boost and is hard pressed to hit 1200 on the pyro.

Did the KDP the first week I had it as well. One issue I'm running into right now is it has a slight miss at light load from 800-1100 rpms, and above 2800 rpms at wot it starts breaking up. Thinking it's a fuel pressure issue.

Also replaced the tappet cover gasket, still fighting one annoying ****ing oil leak on the left side of the engine. Pulling the Vacuum and power steering pump off the for second time and hopefully getting rid of it for good.

This week I'm putting a fuel pressure gauge in it to see where it's at. Also got a leveling kit to go on. Plans for it are paint and interior, needs rockers, cab corners, and doors due to good old pennsylvania rust.

Then for performance mods I'm planning on studs, SB dd3250, 5x14s, 4k gsk, exhaust valve springs, 64/71/14 turbo, air dog. The usual 12 valve stuff.

So that's my beater build so far.
 
The leak is on the power steering side of the motor? It could be leaking from the timming housing. Right where it meets the block, mine had a fairly large gap. For the time being I just filled it with rtv until I do the timming then I will pull the housing and install the gasket
 
I'll have to check that when the vacuum pump is off, never thought of it.
 
Threw a leveling kit on it, gotta put ball joints in it this week. Good thing is the only thing that leaks now is the rear main seal. :D

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Also gonna get a set of valve cover gaskets, going to check the valve clearance and re torque the stock head bolts. Hoping it will hold together until I can get some studs in it.
 
Ordered all the parts to convert it to the 98-99 hd steering, and a set of spicer ball joints.

Looks good with the leveling kit on it.

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Looking good!

Planning on swapping wheels or keeping the ones you have? I think a new set would set the truck off.
 
Thinking about getting those wheels powdercoated black, it's getting body work and paint here in a couple months. I'm thinking about white paint for it.

Getting the timing bumped to 17 made one hell of a difference in how hard it pulls above 2k, held it at 20 psi of boost running up a long hill today about about 85-90 mph. Egts were at like 700-800 degrees, thats awesome.

I'm really not looking forward to cutting out the whole drivers rocker and cab corner the PO bondoed all up. Good thing I'm handy with the mig welder, should have this truck looking better than new by spring.

Anyone have good luck with retorquing the stock head bolts? I'm kinda worried about my HG pushing almost 40 psi with the timing. I ordered a set of valve cover gaskets, planning on checking the valve clearance and torquing the head bolts to around 110.
 
Only to 110? I think most guys that retorque take them close to 140-150 ft. lbs. Heck I think the factory 90 + 90 comes out to more than 110 ft. lbs.
 
when i retorqued my stock headbolts before i did studs i think i got to 135 or 140 before i stopped.

Garrett
 
I'll probably stop when one of them wants to stretch. :rockwoot:

If I get all of them to 130 I'll feel a lot better about hitting 39 psi on the boost gauge, now my clutch its just plain ****ed. :nail:
 
My clutch is still holding up after two years of driving, and I've never felt it slip before. Makes me wonder if it has some type of performance clutch in it. If it ever does start to go, in goes the dual disk.
 
Truck is still breaking up at wot when you get above 2800 rpms.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and the fuel pressure is at 18 psi when it starts breaking up and missing, is this low enough to cause this issue? Only does it when you have it floored, I still don't know when the 3k spring defuels because it won't pull above 2800 without missing. This is starting to get confusing here.
 
Gutted the interior, rear window was leaking and the carpet was ****ing nasty.

Probably going to get a vinyl floor for it, need to track down some rust free doors and fenders. Then the body work begins.

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In case you wanted to get an idea of what yours would look like in white.
2010-10-09_16-23-29_958-1.jpg

This was my 94 before it became the race truck project.
 
I really like the all white look on the second gens.

I found some doors for my truck but they have power windows and locks. Im just wondering before I buy them how hard or if its even doable to put all the manual parts out of my doors into the power doors.
 
I still have my manual lock and window door panels laying around if you need them. I have a tailgate, intercooler, instrument cluster, etc.... Let me know if you need anything.
 
Looks good and a nice find with only 130k on it. Good luck with the build!
 
Thanks guys, it's rough for the miles but hey it is a dodge. :lolly:

Has anyone had any luck with swapping out the manual parts and putting them in a set of power doors? I can get the pair of rust free doors for $250 so I don't think it's a bad deal. The drivers side door has some dents to fix but I'd rather fix dents then deal with rust, the other side is perfect.

I looked at them the other day on the parts truck the guy has and they have the holes in them for the window crank, It looks like I can just remove all the power stuff and bolt in my manual regulators and locks.

Truck seems to be running really good though, I've come to the conclusion that the cutting out problem when you try to rev it to 3k is probably just the gov springs not adjusted perfect. I don't ever rev it that high anyhow so it's not a big deal. It's getting 17.5 mpg with a teenager driving it on country roads and stop and go traffic, not bad in my opinion.
 
18 psi is too low for smooth fueling and power in a 160 pump or 175 pump such as yours.

Get the fuel psi up around 45psi at 2800 rpm and it will rev much better.
 
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