94' Chevy 3500 IFS supporting a 24V's weight.

Nick_Kuebler

Nick_Kuebler

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94 Chevy 3500 with a Cummins conversion ..handles like a dream and rolls straight downturn road no hands on the wheel. But im concerned about the weight becoming an issue over time. Does anyone make HD components for these front ends? Tie rod sleeves? Half shafts? Straight axle conversion calls for more lift than what I'd ever want so in true Chevy dedication looking to retain the IFS lol but definitely wanna beef it up
 
They're pretty tough. Mine held up for 10 years. Still going. Just depends on if you're going to abuse it racing or pulling.
 
If your truck was originally the 6.5 dont worry about it you already have the HD ball joints and what not. Been running 3 to 4 yrs on mine and no issues. Its not much difference between the 6.5 and a 5.9. Just as ahall said if your gonna pull or race you better swap a solid axle und it.

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Well there is still a pretty decent weight difference, but they are tougher than people give them credit for. I did a few 40psi boosted launches on mine and it held up fine with 285s. I don't recommend making a habit of it though. I'd take care of the weak links like tie rods if that's the case. D60 is always an option.
 
Dont think you need a D60 the 14 bolt in mine is holding up just fine with a locker in it. Also i looked up the weight the other day its maybe a 100 difference between the two.

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D60 front is what I was referring to. A 14 bolt rear is very tough. I tore the side gears and spiders out of mine once. Ring and pinion were still flawless. A grizzly would make it pretty much bullet proof. A 6.5 weighs about the same as a big block. A 5.9 has a good 400lbs on it.
 
Ok lol yeah that would be a good option for the front. From what i found the other day is that ashort block 6.5 was almost 600 lbs and according to Cummins service manual it fully dressed only weighs at most 880. Several people say that the weight of the 6.5 fully dressed weighed roughly 775 lbs.

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5.9 is more in the 1100-1200 range. Depends if it's wet, turbo(s), goodies.
 
I'll post it up when i get to a computer but cummins service manual says a 5.9 6bt wet weight is 880. If i can find one of each at work already pulled out of a truck i'll weigh them to be sure.

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I can agree on a 24v. I keep thinking 12v and thats the sercive manual i have been going off of. Slipped my mind about the 24v.

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They will weigh similar. A 24v head and 12v dont have much material difference. And a p-size weighs significantly more than a vp.
 
Yea it was originally a 6.5 truck. Not a puller or racer. Everything i found online showed my P-pumped 24v to be around 550lbs heavier that what worried me. Im gonna look into some sleeves so ive got the confidence there. Any opinions on torsion bar keys to level the ol girl up?? Chevycummins how do you have your heater grid set up?
 
7.3L IDI vs. 5.9L Cummins 12v vs. 6.5L GM Diesel
here is a comparison of the 7.3l, 5.9l, and 6.5l. they dont show the weight from the gm engine but found several threads in forums where they had shipped a 6.5l and it was 820 lbs. it seems that several have their opinions on the weight but according to that link they are only 150 lbs difference roughly. i know that when i did my swap in the 94 k2500 that i had to loosen my torsion bars to lower the front back down after the swap. nick i dont run a grid heater, never had a problem with it starting in the midwest weather. if i was to hook it up i would use the glow plug relay from the gm engine or you can get the cummins set up and just hook it up to a toggle switch.
 
Nick_Kuebler said:
Yea it was originally a 6.5 truck. Not a puller or racer. Everything i found online showed my P-pumped 24v to be around 550lbs heavier that what worried me. Im gonna look into some sleeves so ive got the confidence there. Any opinions on torsion bar keys to level the ol girl up?? Chevycummins how do you have your heater grid set up?
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I dont believe they make sleeves for the 88-98 trucks, they still have real tie rods that are actually pretty beefy. I believe the wheel bearings are a little bigger on the 88-98 trucks as well. I would also guess that the ball joints went by GVW and not engine size, like someone suggested.
 
If you do decide the ifs is not enough dont be scared of doing a sas. I made all brackets and mounts for one on my brothers 94. It was kept down low enough we actualy had to lift it and trim the valance to fit 305s
 
Ya im running my stock grid on a toggle now. The sas swap does not scare me,but everything I have read sais that swap is automatically4 inches lift, which is more than I'd want. I talked to a local 4x4 shoo they located me some 88-98 tie rod sleeves ill get back with who manufactures them ASAP
 
Nick_Kuebler said:
Ya im running my stock grid on a toggle now. The sas swap does not scare me,but everything I have read sais that swap is automatically4 inches lift, which is more than I'd want. I talked to a local 4x4 shoo they located me some 88-98 tie rod sleeves ill get back with who manufactures them ASAP
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Well, the 88-98 trucks have a "factory sleeve" so to speak. There tie rod consists of the outer tie rod end, the inner tie rod end and the sleeve that holds the two together. Where as the 99 up trucks have a Tie rod the size of a pencil that threads onto the centerlinke, and an outer tie rod end that spins onto said pencil. Unless your truck pulling the thing or running with the t-bars cranked to the extreme i really wouldn't worry.
 
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