ahale's 2wd shortbed 1stgen build

You're going to wish you'd jigged the frame before cutting, but it's possible to get it squared up just a royal pain.

I have a 4 link calculator I use for building 3 and 4 link suspensions I can send you. I build off-road dedicated rigs, so what numbers that're needed for go-fast-in-a-straight-line you'll have to research. I'd assume you'd want a higher anti-squat to plant the rear end, but as far as roll axis-that's foreign to me for a straight line.

For your joints and brackets, I can't recommend Dave from ruffstuffspecialties.com enough. I've used several other suppliers, some good, some flipping terrible, but Dave has always been absolutely stand up and the lowest priced with the highest quality. (I don't sell his stuff or know him personally, he's just that good)

I have some GREAT links for research on spring frequency, ect to really dial in your coilovers as well. Let me know if you're interested.
 
I know what you mean, but this frame was pathedic, inches back from where I cut it, it was almost completly rotted through. I'll get it straight.

Ruffstuff was my first place I was planning to call. i'm a bit worried about using open heims just seeing that its a truck I plan to put a lot of miles on.

Triangulated would be nice. But i also have no idea what is the proper way to get it to hook and stay straight.

We will be talking for sure!
 
Find yourself some big I-beams and squaring the frame won't be too much of an issue. Just be patient making points to pull and push off of to move the frame.

Open heims aren't an issue either, check out http://www.sealsit.com. They make seals that cover the heims so if you pack them with some good moly-grease (high tack) you'll be good to a long long time.

Double triangulated is what I build for the simple fact it removes the possibility of flex steer (as the axle droops it swings an arch therefore shortening the distance of the axle to the frame). You obviously won't have an issue with this.

As far as launching straight, I don't see that being difficult at all. Ensure the rear axle is square to the front axle while both are squared to the frame and don't have your anti-squat below 100% and you shouldn't have any issues with a straight shot.
 
whitneyj said:
Open heims aren't an issue either, check out http://www.sealsit.com. They make seals that cover the heims so if you pack them with some good moly-grease (high tack) you'll be good to a long long time.
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I was wondering that^ glad there is someone who thought of such a thing.

i'll give ruffstuff a call tomorrow at lunch and tell them what I'm working with.

I have used them before, they are great guys.
 
typically the use adjustable lower links due to some suspension deflection, having the frame and axle square sometimes isnt the real awnser, I have seen and built a few straight liner's my self , it more or less depends on the rotation of engine/wich way the frame will torque it's self , sometimes the right rear will be 1/8-3/16" more forward than the left rear , to assist in the initial launch .

I have noticed that occasionally this also causes tire wear if its gonna be street driven for anytime.
 
The 94 is gona go back to daily status. Stock ish motor, small turbo. 47rh. Maybe 19.5's and finally take the time to paint the damn thing.
 
Imagine the single cab dually as a tow truck? Crazy...

Can anyone tell me why the classic parallel 4 link with a panhard or watts link is preferred over a triangulated setup?

Also, coil overs... What is good, what is bad?

I literally have no time to research at work.
 
ahale2772 said:
Imagine the single cab dually as a tow truck? Crazy...

Can anyone tell me why the classic parallel 4 link with a panhard or watts link is preferred over a triangulated setup?

Also, coil overs... What is good, what is bad?

I literally have no time to research at work.
Click to expand...

I could be very wrong here, but I think it makes it easier to place the panhard bar where ever you want your roll center height, opposed to trying to make the tri-4 work. Could be difficult getting it where you want it. Also, more than likely need to run a fuel cell with tri-4 setup due to location of fuel tank. Might also be easier to eliminate roll steer with a parallel setup compared to tri-4. Anytime though you have more than 4 links locating an axle, bind will occur, so make sure you have some bushings in your setup somewhere or it will be harsh with a 5 link(panhard setup)
 
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Just took all the fun out of it!

Stoked to see what it's all going to look like. I'm curious about the backhalf kits I see popping up.
 
Eh I know, but for a few extra bucks it takes all the work out of it.

I just want to get back into a fast truck
 
ahale2772 said:
Imagine the single cab dually as a tow truck? Crazy...

Can anyone tell me why the classic parallel 4 link with a panhard or watts link is preferred over a triangulated setup?

Also, coil overs... What is good, what is bad?

I literally have no time to research at work.
Click to expand...

Easier and can be put closer together for bigger meats. There are more reasons to it also but those are the big two.
 
I had a slightly lazy day at work for the first time in 3 weeks or so... Still only took me under an hour to find an awesome way to spend 1600$

At least it gives me a place to start. In the mean time i'll square up the frame, build a trans, get the engine cleaned up, and get the cab ready to set on.
 
So, longbed. (Mods feel free to change the title of the thread)

No rot, one side has some dents.

I think i'm going to stick with the SCLB look. Looks less race, so inherently more awesomer when it runs fast.

Way more awesomer.

D97F58A6-511C-4DC6-BC30-E2D5B49083AA-728-000000748DC32630_zps5094f178.jpg
 
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