All the motivation I need to delete the heat exchanger

Yeah I got them all, its loose. It just wont come free. Next time I have the turbo off ill work on it LOL

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madmikeismad said:
Sorry, I didn't notice you said 130-180 in the cooler circuit.

How much pressure is there in the cooler lines?
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I don't think there's more than 15-20 psi in the cooler lines. I used regular rubber hose, barbed nipples, and screw clamps for mine.
 
Good, except I'm still running just the 1 oem cooler in the front. I need to get a cheap 2nd cooler with a fan just for comfort.
 
I've ran a single cooler for a few years with no problem. I do run hydraulic oil which doesn't thin as bad.
 
madmikeismad said:
Good, except I'm still running just the 1 oem cooler in the front. I need to get a cheap 2nd cooler with a fan just for comfort.
Click to expand...

A few months ago, my block mounted cooler developed a leak at the steel line fitting. I by-passed that cooler and relied only on the front-mounted one. Trans temps were crazy and all over the place.
I bought a Hayden HD cooler and 10" fan, mounted it behind the bumper, left side, to the bumper brace. It helped alot. Afterward, I replaced the steel line that was leaking, re-introduced the block-mounted exchanger, and kept the new Hayden in place. Towing 60-70mph, 8-9000lb, I run about 150*F trans temps in TCC lockup, 85F ambient.

Here's my post on it, from another forum, from 10/2012:

so I got the new Hayden trans cooler installed friday afternoon, as I had to tow the big trailer to Burlington, WV (about 1.5hrs west, across 2 mountain ridges. I mounted the new (big) trans cooler on the drivers side bumper bracket, just forward of the LF wheel-well liner.
I'll get a picture in a little bit, as it's raining now.

Here's what I got:
  • (Hayden) 226110 Imperial 10" Electric Fan (2.6"D x 11"H x 11.375"W) - $56.29
  • (Hayden) 243012 Imperial Maxi-Cool XL Transmission cooler (Size: 3/4" x 11" x 11-5/8") - $64.69
  • (Hayden) 226206 Imperial Thermostatic Fan Control - Preset 185*F - $27.69

I retained the other (inferior) tube & fin front cooler in the cooling circuit, as well, and it is secondary in the series. The trans temp sensor is mounted in the line just before the big (bar & plate style), in the outlet line from the trans. The fan is currently wired to run as long as the ignition is on, as I tried two separate (NEW) thermostatic switches that are 'supposed' to turn on at 195*F and off at 185*F. Guess what? Neither did. Testing them in a pan of hot water proved the switches to 'close the circuit' at ~225*F. Yes, the water was boiling.. ( need to source a better way to trip the fan on/off.)

No stock exchanger (right side of the block) is in the system, currently; it developed a serious leak at the -AN fitting area a week or so ago.


Anyway, several of the grades were six percent, and ranged from 1/2 mi to 1 mi. in length. It was dusk as I left, and the ambient temp was cooler than usual (about 60*F.) I've towed in this temp before, and cruising 60-65mph on flat highway carries about 165-170*F. Slower speed with grade would take it up to 200+.

AS I started working my way through town, temps were not registering on the gauge initially, then slowly worked their way up to about 150-155*F. That's the highest I saw the entire trip!

Once I got out of town and started my trip, cruised about 50-55mph.. temps dropped to 140. About 45 minutes into the trip, I was seeing 130*F temps.. They hovered around 130-135*F, even on the 6% climbs. I think the highest it got on a climb (OD off, TCC locked, 40mph pull) was like 138*.

On the way home, the trip took place from 9:35pm-12:10am. Ambient temp was about 55*, and a lot of moisture in the air, with a heavy dew. Temps stayed sub 130*F the entire way.


Saturday, I installed a new thermo-switch (they've all been the kind that pushes through the core fins) and guess what?? Same crap.. It never turns the fan on. I drove it today to run a couple of town errands (no fan) and the temp spiked to about 200*F at one time. This usually occurs if I sit at a light in D or N for any extended period of time. It can be around 200*F, and I can leave the light, get up to about 30 in 3rd, no OD, and then lock the TC, and the temps will fall to sub 180*F in about a minute. The fan would keep this from happening.

Any ideas on a better option for a thermostatic fan switch?

Here's the review I wrote on AdvanceAutoParts.com website, concerning PN 226206:
Easy to install, inaccurate control

By Rogan from Winchester, VA on 10/8/2012
Rating by Rogan: 2 of 5 stars
Pros:
Lightweight, Easy To Use
Cons:
Flimsy, Inaccurate Switch
Best Uses:
Large Cars, Trucks
Describe Yourself:
Casual Driver, Truck Enthusiast, Mechanic, Auto Enthusiast
Was this a gift?:
No
Bottom Line:
No, I would not recommend this to a friend
This unit is easy to install. However, the most important piece is the most unreliable of the contents in the package: The thermostatic switch. It is supposed to "close the circuit" at ~185*F. This does not happen. I tried two separate new ones and neither are accurate, or close, for that matter. In a pan of hot water, the 2 switches I got from Advance Auto Parts were nowhere close to this temp setting. One switch closed at 224*F, and the other closed at 240*F (water was boiling for a few minutes before the switch closed.)
Being that I am using the Imperial fan (226110) on the Imperial Maxi-Cool Transmission cooler (243012), these temperatures would have already caused transmission damage, let alone the fact that they're supposed to operate in the 185*F range. 40-60*F variance is totally unacceptable.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Pic of the mount location, looking straight up from the ground.
attachment.php
 
What did you use to block off the coolant lines? I was just going to get some 5/8 NPT plugs to block off the ends of the rubber lines behind the alternator and bottom of the block. My trans line hasn't been hooked up to the exchanger for about a year but figure might as well get rid of the exchanger now
 
rkadcock said:
What did you use to block off the coolant lines? I was just going to get some 5/8 NPT plugs to block off the ends of the rubber lines behind the alternator and bottom of the block. My trans line hasn't been hooked up to the exchanger for about a year but figure might as well get rid of the exchanger now
Click to expand...

The coolant lines have been unhooked for ages. When I did that, I just used some hose and connected the 2 ports together as a quick fix. At the time I didn't know you could just block them off without hurting coolant flow.
 
madmikeismad said:
The coolant lines have been unhooked for ages. When I did that, I just used some hose and connected the 2 ports together as a quick fix. At the time I didn't know you could just block them off without hurting coolant flow.
Click to expand...

Cool I thought about that too. Plugs seem like they'd be easier and a little cleaner.
 
RockinRam96 said:
My lines rubbed through and I just used hydraulic hose and ran new lines. Much easier to configure and get in place than the steel lines were.

On the cooler end of the hydraulic lines I just slipped them over the flared ends and clamped the lines. If I were to do it again, I'd get a cooler with threads on it and then I'd be able to thread everything together. But the hydraulic hoses slid over the stock cooler lines, clamped have worked fine thus far.
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How do you like the hydraulic hose? I was thinking of trying it since it'll never see near the pressures or temperatures the hose is rated for, and they can be made to any length and size. I was even thinking of putting quick disconnects going into the heat exchanger and cooler if I have to pull the trans in a pinch.
 
GorillaDave said:
Any interference issues with shifting linkages/cables?
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If you are talking about the 1/4" NPT port on the trans a 4" or longer pipe nipple should put you far enough away from the linkage. I have a 3" nipple which puts the 1/4" FNPT to 3/8" FNPT adapter right up on the linkage. I just turned the fitting in to the hex head of the adapter is flat and contact is minimal. If it caused an issue I would just yank it off and grind it down a bit to clear.
 
NickTF said:
If you are talking about the 1/4" NPT port on the trans a 4" or longer pipe nipple should put you far enough away from the linkage. I have a 3" nipple which puts the 1/4" FNPT to 3/8" FNPT adapter right up on the linkage. I just turned the fitting in to the hex head of the adapter is flat and contact is minimal. If it caused an issue I would just yank it off and grind it down a bit to clear.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
 
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