anti freeze leaking out of head gasket

i said cylinder head. if that much torque cracks heads then i doubt they would sell many set.
 
ps for 45 psi u woulda shoulda coulda been better off to remove stockers one at a time, clean thoroughly, bottom tap hole, clean it thoroughly too, and torque to 107# using my pattern

been pushing upwards of 60 psi to a 6bt of mine done that way - trying to blow it up - or at least lift the head but it just keeps on motorin. want it to grenade so i can build a sick motor for it but the damn thing just wont die
 
JBradley500 said:
i said cylinder head. if that much torque cracks heads then i doubt they would sell many set.
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well bosch built and sold a 6 cyl ve injection pump and look how many of those p.o.s. cummins bought

thats kinda what i was gettin at - 'there is a sucker born every day'

i dont like the price but i love the product (a-1000). but then again i have access to a diamond cutter a 3" thick torque plate and a hot hone

and - i never torque em to no buck n s half either

if the nutz would stop breaking i would stick with the $400 studs
 
A few things come to mind since I've had problems with most of them,...

1) The slope issue on the back of the block is a "Cummins Problem". I've yet to talk to anyone who could identify why this happens, fyi.

2) You machined the head but NOT the block. One flat surface does not a seal make.

3) Do the older engines have soft plugs like the CRs? If so that is a possibility.

4) The over torq of the ARPs causes a mole hole-like hump at each head bolt hole. You can verify this by taking an absolute flat small piece of steel stock and lay over each hole and see if it rocks.
 
MS_Hippi said:
ps for 45 psi u woulda shoulda coulda been better off to remove stockers one at a time, clean thoroughly, bottom tap hole, clean it thoroughly too, and torque to 107# using my pattern

been pushing upwards of 60 psi to a 6bt of mine done that way - trying to blow it up - or at least lift the head but it just keeps on motorin. want it to grenade so i can build a sick motor for it but the damn thing just wont die
Click to expand...

sounds like what i did except i dont know your pattern and i didnt torque to 107#'s.. i torqued it to 50#'s with 25# increments up to 125..

a straight edge told me my block was flat.. the most distortion i saw was 15 ten-thousandths (.0015) which is tolerable.. again i dont think the cause is the head gasket.. just wondering if anyone out there knows about a COOLANT BY-PASS and why it is needed..

thanks for the input guys but im confident that its nothing to do with the head gasket, installation or a warped mating surface
 
MS_Hippi said:
if the nutz would stop breaking i would stick with the $400 studs
Click to expand...

So you kept breaking the 425's nuts when they are torqued to 107 ft lbs?

Also, are you trying to knock me for having a VE pump and im a "sucker" or is it just a coincidence that it was your example?
 
Pulling My Hair Out

nolls96 said:
what's up guys.. i put a head gasket on my truck about 5 or 6 months ago because it was seeping antifreeze out of the back passengers side of the engine.. now it seems that i have the same problem again.. i did everything by the book (head milled flat, pressure checked for cracks, proper torque sequence, etc.).. somewhere on here i saw a thread about how numbers 5 and 6 cylinders hold high coolant pressures and either blow head gaskets or blow out core plugs.. and maybe there's a way to by-pass the excess coolant to the radiator side of the system.. i was just wondering if someone could enlighten me on this or if there's something else i should know about doing head gaskets on these trucks..
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nools96 you're not alone.
I'm Currently fighting this same problem on my 97 12 valve at 175K. Coolant leak at head gasket passenger side #6 hole. Truck has an O' ringed and ported and polished head running a .010 over marine gasket with ARP studs.
Noticed the problem about 5000 miles ago, R&R the head gasket. Drove around town with occasional long trip for 1500 miles with no leaks. went on a long 3500 mile trip towing the toy hauler and the leak is back :doh:

My block is well within tolerance for flatness as well as the head. I'm thinking my head must have developed a crack? So I'm striping it down and send it out for magnafluxing. If the head comes back good it goes back together with thread sealer on the studs. Don't know what Else to do?

Also on the high coolant pressure around #'s 5 and 6, I'm pretty sure that's an issue with the third gen trucks.
 
On my 97 after i installed a new .020 over headgasket with several heat n cool cycles and one hot then one cool retourqe got a coolant leak along the rear passenger side of the head i did one more retourqe and so far knock on wood no leaks....
 
97rebel, im goinna be doing the same thing.. im kinda hoping the heads cracked to be honest, otherwise im not gonna feel right puttin it back together..

bigtrkman, i retorqued the head last night to 135 ft./lbs. and after it warmed up it started to leak.. i think you got the luck of the draw lol
 
update.. just took off turbo and exhaust manifold.. the antifreeze leak i thought i had turns out to be oil.. it was IN the exhaust manifold for cylinders 4 and 6.. anyone know what this could be?
 
nolls96 said:
update.. just took off turbo and exhaust manifold.. the antifreeze leak i thought i had turns out to be oil.. it was IN the exhaust manifold for cylinders 4 and 6.. anyone know what this could be?
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Valve guide seals?
 
i replaced valve guide seals when i had the head off 6 months ago.. maybe the guide is worn? nahh no blue smoke.. the turbo doesnt really have any oil residue on it, it seems to have either leaked out the bottom of the exhaust to head flange or dissipated before it reached the turbo flange..
 
Yea i must have... knock on wood haha but figured i'd o ring if had to pull it again mite b putting twins on it so i'd prolly need them and some studs....
 
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