auto transmissions

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rjustman

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Nov 29, 2012
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So I'd like to hear some input on automatics y'all have ran in your Cummins conversions..I'm thinking about swapping over to an auto but unsure of the route I'd like to go..simplicity and cost would be main drivers..but longevity is key too..any transmission a favorite over others?? If so why..47rh?? 47re?? 4r100?? Let's hear it y'all..enlighten me..give me something to ponder about and help me decide what to do..

Thanks
 
Full manual 47RE, or start with a 48re and be that much better off. Three wire control, fun to drive.
 
3 wire control? Care to elaborate?? I'd like to have an auto auto ..with a full manual don't you still gotta shift like I do now with my zf?
 
I want your ally so bad it hurts but that's looking like a next year/tax season goal
 
I'm not following?? Its a daily driver..autos are more comfortable to drive..and for the right money can be built to hold damn near anything.(later down the road of course)..its not a drag racing or sled pulling rig..I understand it'd prob be easier to hook up and run a manual VB auto but I'm looking for input on a regular day to day auto and what people have had luck with and how they hooked em up and which would be an easier/friendlier swap but still be able to take some abuse off road and street playing..

Thanks for input though I'll def keep that in mind and try to do a little homework on manual VB autos..hell that may be something I can work with :)
 
yeah i hear 47rh are pretty easy to hook up.. how hard are the 47 48re transmissions to run in a true standalone configuration?? just as they would be behind a cummins in their original pickups? is it possible to run them without the PCS or is the PCS mandatory? just looking for input from guys that have gotten it done. and maybe be willing to shed some light or share some insight on what all goes into it..

47rh is definately an option im looking at
 
also what input shaft would i need to put a nv271 and nv273 transfer case up to these trannys.. anyone have part numbers? prices?
 
so what would i need to make a 47rh run like factory in my truck.. harness and ecm out of a 94/95?? i dont want to control lockup and OD with switches.. i may put switches in so i can change if i want to but i want it to go into OD and lockup like it should on its own.. im working a deal to possibly trade my zf6 setup for a mildly build 47rh..
 
Run two hobbs switches off the governor port. One to trigger lockup and one to run OD. No harnesses needed. Just simple circuits

Squeaky Wheel
 
I have mine setup to where if you leave the switched on the trans will shift normally
 
Biggy and revemup.you gave my attention..please pm or text me so we can talk..I don't know jack chit about these transmissions..I'm an allison fan and have only had Allison's behind my duramaxs.I don't mind searching and reading..but haven't really had time this deal just kinda fell in my lap..I've been told a 48re would be best but the damn controllers are stupid expensive for my budget right now..

Also if y'all were trading a guy what would you require on trade he's got a 400 mile rebuild with a single disc billet dpc with Rev Max internals.

I have the zf6 with sbdd ceramic all Destroked adapters and the complete conversion to manual pedals column everything..
 
I'm running a 4r100 in my 03 F250 with a 12v. The 4r100 works damn good with a pcs controller.
 
Are all PCs controllers the same?? I was looking at ATS PCs controller for 48re and you gotta use their valve body also..its like $3000 to get into it.plus like $4000 for a built trans ..

Did you need a special valve body or us that just for the dodge transmissions??
 
If you use a manual valve body you're going to have just as much money in the trans conversion as you would with a stand alone, you have to figure a 600$ vb at minimum unless you run a trans go which kinda sucks compared to a nice built manual valve body plus the cost of you're shifter ect. If I was you I would hold off for what you really want because in the end its going to cost so much more

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah I don't want a manual VB.I just googled PCs controller 48re and ATS came up..so I checked out ATS website and their PCs for the 48re said it required the valve body they sell..is that not the case to just run in a DD truck?? I was under the impression that It was needed to make their PCS controller work
 
i have a semi-built 47RH in my hot rod (16-1700 converter, billet input shaft, Transgo VB kit, billet accumulators, big band struts, cranked line pressure, hydrological oil as fluid). the only wires needed to it is a ground switch for an over drive toggle and a ground switch for a lock up toggle.
i could have gotten REAL fancy and run one more wire for the reverse lights... but i didn't.

i did not go full manual with my VB, yet i can still drive it like a full manual as it will hold each gear as long as i want, and down shift if i make it. but it still drives normal if i just put it in drive and go. i like it this way. best of both for the street
 
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