Battery disconnect that shuts 12v off

97rada

97rada

New member
I am looking at how to wire my 95 so that when I hit the battery disconnect the truck dies. Battery has been relocated to rear so anything is fair game. Figured with the alternator it would still have enough power to hold the shut off solenoid. Any first hand is appreciated
 
Nothing like a typing error in the title. If someone could change that to "shuts" I would appreciate it
 
On my Corvette, we got nailed for the engine still running when the battery was shut off so they had us run the alt power cable from the shut off to the alt and back to the shut off on the other stud. Guess what, it still won't shut off when the battery is turned off. I never have jacked with it since because no one else ever checked and I flat out forgot. Plus it just sets doing nothing. Poor car.
 
you need to wire in a solid state relay that interrupts the R-Terminal on the alt i figure. then you loose your field voltage and the alt just stops making power. most disconnects i have seen work the best cut the ground service to the battery/chassis and if you run the SS relay so that its lead is from battery + to disconnect switch - the independent ground and power loop the alternator makes should not interfere. i say SS relay as you don't want a mag switch style vibrating around and opening unintended.
 
Like everyone said, you have to wire the alternator somehow. Also make sure to use a wire that is plenty large in gauge, the longer the wire the larger the gauge needs to be to avoid resistance.
 
Someone has to have done this in person. I figured I was going to have to do something creative with wiring
 
If the rack sticks or you blow a turbo seal, killing power may not shut it down. Have you thought about running an air shut-off?
 
Drothgeb said:
If the rack sticks or you blow a turbo seal, killing power may not shut it down. Have you thought about running an air shut-off?
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I would like to do an air and fuel shut off when funds allow. At the moment I am just trying to be legal for the track since I moved the battery. I know air and fuel are the best way to kill an engine
 
Put the shutoff on the ground side.... less resistence this way as well since you can run power wire straight to starter from battery instead of to and from shutoff switch.
 
I may be missing something, but why couldn't you tie one of the legs from the asd relay to the switch as well? Hit the switch and the relay is dead.
 
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Yall are making crap way to complicated if you remove ground it kills everything shutoff closes etc...
 
CREED1 said:
Yall are making crap way to complicated if you remove ground it kills everything shutoff closes etc...
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To be NHRA legal doesn't the cutoff have to be installed on the POSITIVE for some dumb reason??? Seems like I remember that being the case.

I agree disconnecting the ground is a much better/safer prospect than running extra length of positive cable all over the car/truck!
 
Chris Tobin said:
To be NHRA legal doesn't the cutoff have to be installed on the POSITIVE for some dumb reason??? Seems like I remember that being the case.



I agree disconnecting the ground is a much better/safer prospect than running extra length of positive cable all over the car/truck!
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Rule states master electrical shutoff located at rear outside of body... for 9.99 or 135+
 
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Nhra says positive but ive never had a tech guy verify which side cable its hooked too. All mine are ground side.
 
when doing shut off's you need to keep in mind that the battery is only that, the battery. the electrical system is run off of the Alt (if there is one). you need to be able to break its self feeding loop (R-Terminal) so that it stops producing power.
 
97rada said:
I would like to do an air and fuel shut off when funds allow. At the moment I am just trying to be legal for the track since I moved the battery. I know air and fuel are the best way to kill an engine
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I would go ahead and wait till you had enough money to install the proper shut-off equipment.

Take it first hand from a stupid redneck-hillbilly piece of $hit who almost killed his own son. When dat biotch decides to go, you will thank me.

I'm working with Steve at Shocker Pass as we speak having a custom light weight 3.5" butterfly shut-off made that will be installed post intercooler.

As far as I'm concerned, these should be mandatory on all racing vehicles.
 
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Nootch said:
when doing shut off's you need to keep in mind that the battery is only that, the battery. the electrical system is run off of the Alt (if there is one). you need to be able to break its self feeding loop (R-Terminal) so that it stops producing power.
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If you kill the ground supply to the solenoid , ecm etc that its feeding power too truck dies... alternator no longer charges...
 
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Bodacious said:
I would go ahead and wait till you had enough money to install the proper shut-off equipment.



Take it first hand from a stupid redneck-hillbilly piece of $hit who almost killed his own son. When dat biotch decides to go, you will thank me.



I'm working with Steve at Shocker Pass as we speak having a custom light weight 3.5" butterfly shut-off made that will be installed post intercooler.



As far as I'm concerned, these should be mandatory on all racing vehicles.
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It will come in time. I have more safety stuff then is required by the class. Bigger cage ect. I know it sounds bad bad I have no desire to sit out another season. If if runs away I will bump it in neutral and let it kill itself.
 
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