Boring Spindles AAM axle "Pros and Cons"

HT3500

IDK ANYTHING
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Apr 9, 2007
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I heard the spindles can bend after boring the spindles out for the bigger axle shaft, Anyone else heard this or can confirm?

If this is the case now what, does anyone make a high strength drop in axle pehaps a double splined type? I know SCS does but seems like I've read some of those have broke too...
 
Gee thanks for your input Gary...Ya the insurance it self is like a truck payment every month...
 
I heard the spindles can bend after boring the spindles out for the bigger axle shaft, Anyone else heard this or can confirm?

If this is the case now what, does anyone make a high strength drop in axle pehaps a double splined type? I know SCS does but seems like I've read some of those have broke too...

Performance pro's puts a f106 spindle on theirs that will accept at 2 1/6 axle you can buy their whole set up for 8k. LOL
 
Man I checked into that axle for wheels and all like 10k, I sure like pulling but I'm not ready to spend 10k for one axle just yet...
 
So no one has heard or seen this???

How much bigger you wanting to go? I don't know too much about the aam stuff all I've every messed with are Dana but from what I understand no point in going really crazy on axles because ring gear will still be the weak link.
 
The way I understand the choices are stock sized axles or 38 spline which require boring spindles. Just looking for strong axles at this point, can't do much about ring and pinion untill it breaks...
 
Tony Burkhard is a member here....ask him, he's the one sellin' 'em.

I have not heard of spindles bending, but I don't own a set of those axles (yet).
 
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I thought I saw a picture on here of an AAM that smashed the tube where the leaf spring perch was at one time.
 
No but maybe a design flaw in the tubes that boring could amplify?? Just thinking out loud.
 
No but maybe a design flaw in the tubes that boring could amplify?? Just thinking out loud.


Yea, however I can't see the boring of the spindle impacting the tube in a negative way. If anything it would make the spindle the weaker than the tube itself.
 
Tony Burkhard is a member here....ask him, he's the one sellin' 'em.

I have not heard of spindles bending, but I don't own a set of those axles (yet).

Sent him a pm to just get pricing and info but no answer back, I have heard about the tube smashing also maby someone could put up a link. I still wonder if this axle will be stronger than a dana 80 overall, that is if the spindles won't bend after they are bored...
 
Anyone else have any input, I'd like to get as much info before spending a bunch of money...
 
They work great with the 38 spline axles. There really is not that much material taken out when it is bored out.
 
They work great with the 38 spline axles. There really is not that much material taken out when it is bored out.

I just repaired the outer bearing surface and thread on the end of an 11.5 out a dodge. FWIW, the way the spindle is shaped, i am guessing your only boring the outer most part where the threads and outer bearing are since it necks up inside after you get in there a little ways. So i cant imagine your weakening the spindle a ton.

Ive got a question, why pull the rear end out and bore the ends out? Its only a clearance hole, i would think you would be able to do it on the truck with a set of properly sized shell reamers, hell if not alot of meat has to come out it could probably be hand reamed with an adjustable reamer. Even if your reduced to hand reaming, you could do quite a bit of hand reaming in the time it takes to remove the rear end housing and re install.
 
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I just repaired the outer bearing surface and thread on the end of an 11.5 out a dodge. FWIW, the way the spindle is shaped, i am guessing your only boring the outer most part where the threads and outer bearing are since it necks up inside after you get in there a little ways. So i cant imagine your weakening the spindle a ton.

Ive got a question, why pull the rear end out and bore the ends out? Its only a clearance hole, i would think you would be able to do it on the truck with a set of properly sized shell reamers, hell if not alot of meat has to come out it could probably be hand reamed with an adjustable reamer. Even if your reduced to hand reaming, you could do quite a bit of hand reaming in the time it takes to remove the rear end housing and re install.


I don't think anyone every said that the rearend needed to be removed to do the work, however some might have thought so. Good clarification!
 
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I don't think anyone every said that the rearend needed to be removed to do the work, however some might have thought so. Good clarification!

Ah, i only asked because everyone uses the term "bore" rather than ream or hone, so i just assumed. I guess one could probably use a mobile line boring set up, or pick the truck up on a lift and drag bridgeport over next to it. So what are guys doing? woodchucking it and hogging them out with a die grinder?
 
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