Building traction bars.. Cat 1 or Stainless Heims

I would also look into adding a grease zerk where it is threaded into the pipe. They like to seize up and some occasional grease might help
 
Why? If you lock one end it can't turn, the other nut would just be insurance.

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chevota84 said:
Why? If you lock one end it can't turn, the other nut would just be insurance.

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There is slack in the threads, when you lock the nut down it keeps it from wobbling around and wollering out the threads.
 
My bars have QA1 heims on them. I trust the fine thread, with a lock nut, on them as an attachment to the bar versus the course thread of the top link.
 
CSnyder said:
Ballistic Fabrication - Manufacturers of Precision Offroad Fabrication Supplies
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Called them today. They recommended the Midwest rod ends since I was trying to keep these fairly inexpensive.


WhitetailAddict said:
My bars have QA1 heims on them. I trust the fine thread, with a lock nut, on them as an attachment to the bar versus the course thread of the top link.
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Looks like I may go with the 7/8" kit I posted earlier. Probably going to order a (2) 6' pieces of DOM 2" OD 1/4" wall. I'm debating on what my overall length will be. If I have a 65" bar and the suspension cycles up(or down) 6" then the traction bar at the axle end would push back 1/4". Which isn't that bad but if it could compress a full 12" then it would be pushed back around a inch and an eighth. Either way you look at it these traction bars do bind the suspension but since this isn't a offroad toy I should be ok.
 
Those 7/8" heims look similar to what is on my traction bars. It sounds like you're using the same DOM tubing as well.

One thing I would say is get one of the threaded bungs that you can put a wrench on (I think hexagonal is the technical term but it escapes me at the moment), it makes adjusting the preload a lot easier.
 
It is tough to beat the price of these bars that they sell as four link parts:

4-Link Round Adj. Bar with Poly Bushings | thorbros.com

The urethane bushings work great for on the street. They will make you any length you need if you call them. They also have nice laser cut tabs for welding onto the frame and axles for a decent price. If you really want to do it yourself you can also buy just the threaded tube or the threaded ends as well.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Would a 7/8" rod end be strong enough?

Something along the lines of what I've linked below, but I'm not sure I would need the high misalignment spacers though.

7/8 x 3/4 Rod End Set - RuffStuff Specialties
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Does anyone feel the need to have the high misalignment spacers?

Ballisticfab has a sale today and I'd like to go ahead and get this stuff ordered, but wanna make sure I have everything I need. :Cheer:


EDIT: The sale is 15%. It looks like I' could save 40 bucks. :Cheer:
 
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SuperDave4x4 said:
Does anyone feel the need to have the high misalignment spacers?

Ballisticfab has a sale today and I'd like to go ahead and get this stuff ordered, but wanna make sure I have everything I need. :Cheer:


EDIT: The sale is 15%. It looks like I' could save 40 bucks. :Cheer:
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I would suggest getting them
 
Here we go... comes out to just a hair under $390 shipped.

EDIT: That includes the $53 mothers day discount..



303 SS High Misalignment Spacer for 3/4" to 5/8" $4.99 $39.92

7/8" -14 tpi Tube Adapter RH
Tube Inner & Outer Diameters: Size 7: 1.5 in ID - 2.0 in OD - $3.00
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread $11.99 $23.98

7/8" -14 tpi Tube Adapter LH
Tube Inner & Outer Diameters: Size 7: 1.5 in ID - 2.0 in OD - $3.00
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread $11.99 $23.98

7/8" -14 tpi Jam Nut
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread $2.99 $5.98

7/8" -14 tpi Jam Nut
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread $2.99 $5.98

1.5" ID - 2.0" OD .250" wall DOM
Length: 6 feet - $80.75 $94.25 $188.50

MXM-14-12 Midwest Control Chromoly 7/8" Rod End with 3/4" bore
Thread Hand: Left Hand Thread $16.99 $33.98

MXM-14-12 Midwest Control Chromoly 7/8" Rod End with 3/4" bore
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread
 
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