Bunch of questions on installing head studs (with head still on)

JBradley500

JBradley500

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I have a couple of questions before i install my head studs. I am going to do it with the head still on.

1. What process do you actually install them in. I've read when leaving the head on you do them remove the head bolts one at a time and then install/torque the stud to somewhere around 90 ft pounds on initial install. You do that to all of the studs then final torque from there. Is that close to correct?

2. What length tap will i need to bottom tap the holes with the head on?

3. When re-torquing the studs are you supposed to back the nut off some (like 1/4 turn) before applying the correct torque?

4. What final torque is everyone having best luck with when using arp 2000 studs? I know what the directions say but i also know there are tricks and secrets to this sort of thing and i assumed people go beyond arp's specs too.
 
JBradley500 said:
I have a couple of questions before i install my head studs. I am going to do it with the head still on.

1. What process do you actually install them in. I've read when leaving the head on you do them remove the head bolts one at a time and then install/torque the stud to somewhere around 90 ft pounds on initial install. You do that to all of the studs then final torque from there. Is that close to correct?
- that's what I would do if I were to leave the head on.
2. What length tap will i need to bottom tap the holes with the head on?
- Not sure on the exact length, it would probably have to be about 6" long. You will probably have to at least remove the rocker pedestals to get those holes tapped. Also, make sure the tap is a bottoming tap.
3. When re-torquing the studs are you supposed to back the nut off some (like 1/4 turn) before applying the correct torque?
-No.

4. What final torque is everyone having best luck with when using arp 2000 studs? I know what the directions say but i also know there are tricks and secrets to this sort of thing and i assumed people go beyond arp's specs too.
- I went to 135 ft-lbs. But have seen people take them up to around 150.
Click to expand...

See the answers in red. Just my opinion.
 
#3 - I always back off the nut before retorquing them. Gotta break the static friction to get the nut to turn. If its already turning, you'll get more stretch for a given torque. Plus, its good to re-lube the studs when you retorque them. The oil will wash some of the lube off, as well as the contaminants in the engine bay for the external nuts/studs.

#4 - I only go to 125 on mine. I've had good luck with them. I helped a friend with his, he wanted 150, and of the 26 nuts/studs, about 20 of them were picking up in the threads, to the point I had to use a combo wrench and an allen wrench to separate the nut from the loose stud. That was with the ARP lube that came in the little package, not the Ultra-Torque lube.
 
I mis-read #3, thought you meant in between torque sequences, sorry! But yes, when you go to re-torque the studs you will want to loosen them up and put more lube on them.
 
Tate, do you have an opinion on question #1?

So when you run a heat cycle through them after theyve been fully torqued, you want to remove the nut and washer on each stud then do the torquing again?

Sorry if my questions are stupid but i can only afford to do this once, so knowing what im getting myself into is the only insurance i have.
 
I've never swapped in studs with the head on, always with a fresh gasket. But if I were to do it with the head on, I'd find what the stock bolts are torqued to, take the studs there, then go up to 125.

After running, relube the studs, so the nut has to come off. Make sure you lube the face of the nut or the washer.
 
what others have mentioned has worked for me in the past. Just remember to follow the proper torque sequence and only do one at a time. I used 125 ftlbs.
 
Ok thanks. For the most part those were the only concerns i was having. When i did my valve springs i checked one of the stock bolts and it took 110 ftlbs to get it moving so i bet it actually had less torque on it. Since the studs take less torque to get more clamping force, maybe ill start at 90-100 ft lbs and go from there.
 
...to torque the studs after a heat cycle... are they to be re-torqued while the engine is hot?
 
12VNATION said:
...to torque the studs after a heat cycle... are they to be re-torqued while the engine is hot?
Click to expand...

Personal preference is the key on this one. I do mine cold. I also don't like working on a hot engine.
 
Tate said:
Personal preference is the key on this one. I do mine cold. I also don't like working on a hot engine.
Click to expand...

i've read of people "popping" (busting) the nuts on hot re-torque's... why?- i dont know.
 
When I did mine I didn't retorque them as the gasket is already settled, I bought a long series tap & made a extension piece with a nut welded on the end so that I could use a socket & rachet. Worked out good, can measure the length if you need it?
 
it couldnt hurt if you have the time. im on and off with my uncles machine shop and will be working next week and probably will order a couple of taps that i can use.
 
If your uncle has a machine shop, he probably has the ability to buy a long bottoming tap. That's what I would use, if you make an extension and it breaks you will have to take the head off to get it out.$.02
 
The only reason I made the extension up was because the long tap wasn't long enough! I don't think you could break the extension as long as you have some 'feel' for the tap after all your only really cleaning the hole out
 
yeah i can get taps... my dad does the purchasing so i get anything that has ever been in an MSC book.

as for the length, anything would be helpful. i might pull a bolt tomorrow and stick a coat hanger into the hole and get a rough estimate too.
 
If you have the studs already, just get one the same length as the middle length studs.
 
That would make sense but I go between ny and Illinois. Stuff is shipping to ny And I'm in Illinois. To make a long story short, it doesn't work out unfortunately.
 
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