Cam gear walking off?

I found pics of my mess . . . . .

I can't find a pic of the rocker-arm shaft but . . . .

2ce5fa99.jpg




Note the pattern the valve-stem wears into the rocker-arm face:

InspectRockerArms.jpg
 
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With a VE powered truck and a big "drop" in cam I'd highly suggest using a degree wheel. As you know our injection rates suck hine tit, combined that with low rpm and a big cam that wasn't set up could be causing your egt and performance issues.

The valve lash backing off could be a number of things.

To me it sounds like you're fighting a few separate problems.

You mind giving a full run down of the entire power train?
 
Built auto with DPC converter, Hungry Diesel 6x13 injectors 80lpm, 63/68/.83t4, 3800 spring, BD fuelpin, studs, springs, air dog 150, all the usual pump mods, intake, exhaust
 
Tonight I checked the rocker as BC847 suggested and the shaft and inside the arm looks fine. The part of the arm the rides one the valve looks just like the ones pictured above.

Also I cut open the oil filter and found some tiny silver metal pieces. Super tiny pieces, like I could barely see them against the filter "paper". There were maybe 30 or so total which seems like a lot, but not nearly enough for how much the valve lash changed. Also I checked the drain plug magnet and that had absolutely nothing on it.
 
If you still want to know if the gear walked, pull the lift pump, and pry fore and aft on the lift pump lobe to check cam endplay. There is no way of measuring it so it will be a guess of how much you have, but if the gear starts to walk off the endplay will increase.
 
it sounds like your cam is eating into the block due to lack of lubrication upon startup. Usually this additional lash will come into play in the first 100 miles. If you change oil at the same time you do the cam swap it will take additional time for the oil to hit the #6 bearing which is furthest from the pump.

Call the office if you need to go over any specifics. I hope I am not right.....
 
I used royal purple assembly lube and didn't let it fire until I had oil pressure. Shouldn't that have taken care of it? I'be driven about 50 miles since last set the valves and when I checked last night, they were all still right on. How fast will lash change if it is wearing into the block?
 
Thanks Disturbed.

Stuffy and I pulled the engine from my 91.5 yesterday and I noticed that cylinders 2 and 5 had slight vertical scoring, just enough to feel with a nail. The drain plug was covered in metal and once I pulled the cam, looking through the LP hole, it looks like the cam journals in the block are pretty rough. Guess I don't know to install a cam. LOL

Weird thing is though, the cam itself looks perfect. No scoring or marks at all. I measured with a set of calipers and all the bearings are exactly the same size all the way around @ 2.125 IIRC. Must be a lot harder material than the block is. So I'm going to send it to Hamilton and see what he thinks. If it's still good I'm going to sell it to fund a new turbo.
 
I'm curious to hear why a cam hosed in royal purple and then pre lubed would have destroyed the cam journals.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
I would put a 24v oil pump in this round.

All of the old lube oil pump part numbers more than likely have been superseded by the later oil pump. That was the case for me anyhow. I called Cummins for a replacement, gave the original number and got the number for the later, higher volume pump.
 
I would still put the updated oil pump in any motor that gets beat on. It gives me the warm and fuzzy feelings.
 
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Your cam assembly lube should be a paste. It should not run off the camshaft. It needs to stick to it. If it is running off or dripping it will not be there to do its job when it counts. Basically the cam paste is doing all the work before you have oil pressure, and also the first 30 sec to 1 min of running the camshaft doesn't see a lot of oil either. It is very important to use a good camshaft assembly paste. I also don't recommend any of the off the self Royal Purple products.

If anyone needs camshaft assembly past give us a call, and we can send you some. It is inexpensive. Also on break in you should have a very high ZDDP ppm content in your oil, and use a conventional oil also.
 
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