Coolant Bypass

jimbo486

jimbo486

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
1,617
In the process of removing my 12 valve for a rebuild and starting to put a list of parts together.

I'm trying to determine what the ideal type of coolant bypass would be for my engine. It's a relatively low RPM engine with a 3,800RPM governor spring in the VE. Even so, I've never taken it quite that high; maybe 3,500RPM. This particular kit, using Cummins parts, instructs to plumb the hose into the heater core return and seems to be more about addressing the known lack of flow issue at #5 and #6 rather than relieving high pressures. http://puredieselpower.com/cooling-system-components/94-02-cummins-cooling-kit-improves-coolant-flow-to-cylinder-6.html

In this case, is promoting better coolant flow more of a concern over relieving the pressure?
 
That was on a school bus engine i bought it had it was for plumbing up the water for the air compressor I have taken the freeze plug for the rear and plumbed in a watts 530 c set at the lowest pressure 50 psi on my CR and it helped
 
I saw your post about that actually. Didn't you actually end up plumbing 2 of the Watts valves in it though? And into the upper hose also? Is your CR capable of turning enough RPM that it needs to relieve the pressure or were you just trying to help the flow of coolant with the Watts set so low?
 
Last edited:
Not sure if the point is being missed but I'm trying to determine whether coolant flow or pressure would be the main concern or if both are of equal concern.
 
jimbo486 said:
Not sure if the point is being missed but I'm trying to determine whether coolant flow or pressure would be the main concern or if both are of equal concern.
Click to expand...

From my understanding, the greater likelihood of blowing a rear freeze plug would result from pressure rise in the coolant around the rear cylinders...stemming from rapid expansion of the coolant. So, I think at low/moderate RPM, pressure would be the main concern.
 
J B weld $7 bucks, all block freeze plugs... Great peace of mind.. And SAVED a lot of money
 
ENafziger said:
From my understanding, the greater likelihood of blowing a rear freeze plug would result from pressure rise in the coolant around the rear cylinders...stemming from rapid expansion of the coolant. So, I think at low/moderate RPM, pressure would be the main concern.
Click to expand...
So if I were to plumb a pressure relief out of the rear, could I plumb it back to the suction side of the water pump or even back into the head on the backside of the thermostat? Or is the idea to relieve all the pressure into the upper hose? If that's the case, I need to find a thermostat housing from a later 12v that has the threaded hole and fitting in it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top