Crappy crappy cold start!

zukgod1

zukgod1

Old fart
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
Messages
1,397
Truck is a 07 5.9 truck with a swapped 6.7.
6.7pump rail Injectors, 5.9 sensors on everything, brand new prv
5" exhaust, 2pcs manifold with a 62/68/12 t3 turbo. (Have a 66/74/12 t4 on the way.
ARP 625's
6.7 intake with egr deleted. AFE air intake, Fass 150, Snow water/Meth kit
Stock Injectors.
H&S Mini Max
Natural Gas Kit also.

Engine sat for 4ish years.

On start up it smokes and Coughs something nasty. I mean smoke out the neighborhood kinda smoke.

Rail pressure at idle (even cold) is about 7k.
Will hit 29k with the H&S on its high setting and sets a P0148 (or 0143 can't remember) Fuel pressure code. If I leave it on 2nd or 3rd setting won't set code.
Did a Injector cut out test and no single one was the issue, acted the same on every hole.

The grid heater is working, checked it with intake off.
Even if I plug it in and engine starts at 100 Deg its not happy.
Will start smooth if it's off say long enough to get fuel but longer then that and it's not happy.

Will smooth out and run fine in a Couple min every time.

Originally I had left the 6.7 fuel solenoid on the CP3 but swapped it this morning with the 5.9 one and no difference on starting or driving.
Dumped in 3gal of ATF, 2 qts of 2cycle oil to see if the Injectors are just sh! t from sitting so long and that's what I'm still thinking that I need to pull them and swap on some new tips.

Ideas?

Suggestions?

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Run some PS diesel kleen through it. Dose it pretty strong to start. See if it clearanced up.
 
Ya sorry I left that out.
I dumped in a 100 gal treatment with the atf and 2cycle oil.

Only driven it maybe 80 miles sense though.

Also left out I have a nice diesel Injector cleaner (Justice Bros) and I ran a treatment with that as well prior to today's fuel additives.

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I think your going to need a bigger exhaust side on that turbo.

Like a .88-.91. Not a 12cm. That's awfully small.


Pull your injectors and get them tested. I bet you have fuel leaking into the cylenders over a period of time after you shut it off.

Also go ahead a fill up with as much diesel as you can. That's a lot of crap you have in your fuel that you really don't need. Even tho it doesn't hurt that much. Just not needed.
 
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I just looked and it's a .88 I have.
Still need a T4 manifold though.

And I was thinking the same thing on the Injectors honestly, just want to make sure I'm going the right direction before I disable the truck as its my daily.

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Update for what is worth.

I installed some Industrial Injection 100hp tips. Runs MUCH better but the cold start is still sh! tty.

I noticed when is chugging that smooths out its just like a switch is flipped. I mean running like ass then snap running good.

I watched the gauges and the system voltage is about 12 when the key is first turned on then rises after running however when the grid heater turns on it drops to 10ish. Well guess what, the second the grid heater turns off is when it starts running good.

So my hypothesis is that the Ecm can't fire the Injectors properly when the voltage drops that low causing the rough running.

Typically if I let the truck sit (in the cold) for even 10 min it coughs a little (grid heater) at start up.
I unplugged the relay and let it sit for a hour, fired right up. No coughing no smoke.

The batteries are brand new Interstates. That doesn't mean they are good but for info. The alternator cranks out 14.2v with the heater on high and all the lights on.

I'm wondering 3 things, either the grid heater is shorting out causing the voltage drop or 2nd the batteries (one or both) are not up to snuff or 3rd the alternator is about out and can't get the voltage up fast enough to offset the grid heater.


Am I going down the correct path ya think?

Tomorrow morning will be a good test, block heater is plugged in and that usually gets the block to 100deg and the grid heater is unplugged. If it fires and runs smoothly what else could it be?

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Possibly need to get a higher amp alternator.

Or just don't use the grid heater. All my trucks are deleted but I live in Texas and 20* weather doesn't phase my trucks.
 
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I guess I could, seems like that maybe a bandaid though as it really should just work.

Never know though, maybe the alternator was changed in the past with the wrong one.

Tomorrow morning will be a good test I think.

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Replace the batteries and since it's an 07 get EFILive and turn the damn grid heater off.
 
I would love EFI Live if there was someone that could help with the tune.
I don't have the time to deal with that.


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There's tons of people that sell the efi hand held with tubes already loaded on it.
 
Batteries tested good, alternator cranking out 14.3 under any type of load.

I don't get it. Starts ok without the grid heater with block heater plugged in, don't dare try without. It's currently 16deg out there. I suspect even this healthy 30k engine would not be happy in the morning without the grid heater or block heater.

When I get time in going to do a Glacier performance delete and intake horn, then their relocator for the grid.

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My 5.9 cranked just fine down to 10*, no grid heater, ported head, and slightly decompressed. I would suspect issues with the 5.9-6.7 ECM/injector compatibility. Also, I would not rely specifically on the dash gauges. I'm not sure if you've used a multimeter since, but your original post seems you're basing your readings off the dash instruments.
 
I'm not using the dash to test anything. I used my Snap-On scanner for it all.

Let me clarify, if the grid heater is not plugged in the truck starts fine and runs great, I've not tried it without the block heater and right now I'm not going to, it's damn cold out there and I want heat!

Also, there is no issue between the 5.9 and 6.7 Injector as far as the ecm can see. Same driver same voltage works fine.

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So you have a 6.7 grid heater on a 5.9 truck? Did you put the grid heater relays off the 6.7 truck on your truck when you swapped parts?
 
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LReiff said:
So you have a 6.7 grid heater on a 5.9 truck? Did you put the grid heater relays off the 6.7 truck on your truck when you swapped parts?
Click to expand...

No I did not.
I only had the long block.
Makes me wonder though.

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TheBigNasty.
I did say earlier the dash indicated a sever voltage drop yes, I left out the part where I was using the Snap on scanner to read the FP and voltages to confirm.
 
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