Dana 60 Gears

JerrodGlover

JerrodGlover

Pulling God
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
2,122
Anyone having problems with breaking them? I broke one last summer with a few hooks on it. Broke a second one this weekend after about 20 hooks on it. 5.13 gears in a pull only truck with spool in the front.
 
Why dont u ask old whitey how he is setting his up, heard he cleaned up...
 
Well I was always told in a pull truck to set them up at 0 lash, tight, so theres no shock contact if the he front end breaks free and hooks, if there always touching they cant shock themselves as much. One old fellow here runs a dana 60 rear in a mod gas truck a 900 hp and has them set up so he needs a pipe wrench to turn the yoke, may eat a bit of power but he never breaks a ring and pinion. Just a thought, sems to work for folks up here.
 
HILLBILLYPRIDE said:
Pinion depth is as critical as back lash is
Click to expand...

Pinion depth is even more critical than back lash!!! Set the pinion about five thousandths too deep and set it to zero back lash and you shouldn't have an issue. What gears have you been putting in?
 
Interesting.

So setting the pinion deep into the ring gear would put the stress down farther into the teeth (which would be wider at that point and stronger)...

So how do you set it up that way. Isn't pinion depth set by judging where your contact pattern is at on the face of the ring gear teeth? Possibly set it up with a pattern in the center, then add 0.005" of shims and recheck it or just try to end up with the contact pattern at around the 25%-30% area from inside to outside of the tooth?

Thanks
 
GOT-Torque said:
Interesting.

So setting the pinion deep into the ring gear would put the stress down farther into the teeth (which would be wider at that point and stronger)...

So how do you set it up that way. Isn't pinion depth set by judging where your contact pattern is at on the face of the ring gear teeth? Possibly set it up with a pattern in the center, then add 0.005" of shims and recheck it or just try to end up with the contact pattern at around the 25%-30% area from inside to outside of the tooth?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Pretty much check it until you get the perfect pattern then add about .005-.009" of shims to the pinion. Also, you should really check the pinion depth with the appropriate measuring devices to locate it to the axle center line and shim per the numbers stamped in the pinion but both ways will work!

Another thing to really pay attention to is the pinion pre-load. If you have it too loose it will walk away from the ring gear and destroy it in a hurry. I always go on the tight side of the spec.
 
I did get the next set to last much longer. Few things I did, step up a gear so there is more contact. Second I set the gear tight with no backlash, I don't drive the truck so it shouldn't be a big deal. The biggest thing that I did is quit going to the pulls with the 5' long chain. With all the weight out front and the chain that long it would put all the force on the front end and it would break within a few hooks.
 
Jerrod, what brand of gears are you running now?

Don't some of the mod level trucks still run a D60 up front? Isn't it common for them to run a 6.20 ratio in the axles? How do they get them to survive?
 
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