Dana 70

mopo824

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Nov 15, 2011
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113
I have a dana 70 in my 95 scsb 2wd 12v thats in my sig. does anyone know if they make aftermarket axles for it or axle studs? i have looked into it with little to no luck. i dont want to have to swap rears unless i have to or wait until this one eats itself if there is nothing available. mine has a locker and 3.55 if that helps at all (which i dont think it matters).
 
Dana 70 and Dana 80's use the same hubs and axles.

Edit: I wouldn't see the point of doing so however considering I doubt the center section would take enough abuse to ever have to worry about sheering the bolts or break the axles. 70's are pretty weak.
 
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I ask because i was going over the nhra rules the other day and noticed i would have to have aftermarket axles and retainers. I am guessing the retainer would be the studs that hold the axle shaft to the tube?
 
I ask because i was going over the nhra rules the other day and noticed i would have to have aftermarket axles and retainers. I am guessing the retainer would be the studs that hold the axle shaft to the tube?

That would be my guess, however I don't know for sure. In any case, Haisley sells studs.
 
Does that rule apply to a full floater? I thought that was in place for 9" and c clip axles.

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NHRDA Super Street Class Abbreviation – SS • Heads-Up class
• 4/10ths Pro Tree
• Pro ladder by ET
• Lane choice by quickest ET
• Auto Start on
• Must have a current NHRDA membership, competition number and class abbreviation on vehicle
• NHRDA and MBRP Diesel Drag Race Series decals must be displayed on both sides of the vehicle and be in plain view
• 2wd Minimum weight: 5,000 lbs (w/ Driver) +/- 1%, slick tires permitted
• 4wd Minimum weight: 6,000 lbs (w/ Driver)+/- 1%, DOT approved tires required
• Tube chassis, back halved, 4-link, 3-link style rear suspension prohibited (Note: Traction/Ladder Bars allowed)
• Hood / Fender Stacks prohibited
• All Exhaust must exit up and away from vehicle
• Must have OEM style transmission (Note: Lenco, Liberty, Bruno, Clutchflite, Danco or similar prohibited)
• Vehicle must be certified to run 11.49 seconds to 9.99 seconds
• NHRA and/or IHRA approved 11.49 roll bar and padding required
• Engine must be forward of OEM Firewall
• Fuel cells are permitted and do not have to be mounted in stock location ( Fuel cells must be SFI approved)
• Battery(s) are no longer required to be forward of OEM Firewall, but must be mounted in an approved SFI box.
• Master electrical cutoff required if battery is moved from non-OEM position.
• Auto Trans reverse lockout and neutral safety required on Auto Trans
• Working taillight required. Flashing ,blinking , or strobe lights prohibited
• Liquid Overflow required
• Steel valve stems in all tubeless tires required
• Drive line loop required
• SFI 1.1 or 1.2 Flywheel / Clutch required
• SFI 6.1, 6.2 or 6.3 Bellhousing or 9.1 Flywheel shield required
• SFI 3.2A/1 jacket required
• SFI Spec 16.5 quick release 2 inch minimum width restraints required


IF RUNNING 10.99 seconds or quicker
• SFI 4.1 Transmission Shield running 10.99 or quicker
• SFI Harmonic Balancer running 10.99 or quicker
• Roll Cage and padding required with altered floor plans or non-OEM firewall (Window net then required)
• Auto trans locking-type dipstick running 10.99 or quicker
 
i was looking at the wrong class so i guess i wont need them and i look like a jack... lol. i only want to know so if i ever did have time to make it out to a race and wanted to compete. i only need a few more things to get me there and at the time this is something i would need.
 
Could have been worse, at least you didn't buy a bunch of parts first lol

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well i would have either cancelled the order or been like well crap and put them on lol. glad i didnt because those things are expensive
 
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