I know what you mean, I hated that high gear shift because thats where the traction problem usually happened for me and it came around 450-500 feet out. It was much better on passes where Id leave in second on the foot brake then pull high just out of the gate, it loaded the hell out of the engine and really pulled hard, the extra load just about made up for the little bit lazier it was from coming out on the 1.41 gear rather than the 2.41, the reason Id didnt do it all of the time was just wanting to leave on the brake for consistancy. It'd e.t. about the same either way but a low gear launch gave 1.16-1.18 60's and second more like 1.22-1.26. Best combo If I could have got there would be a built SuperGlide with a bell that would ecept my proven 13.5" convertor. I could never find a bell that would house larger than a 11" unit at the time. A 1.80 then 1:1 would have been perfect for me in the Altered if a bell could be had to fit my big ass convertor, I tryed a glide and a 11" convertor and absolutly hated a convertor that loose and unefficent with the kind of low speed torque that I built with my combo....
Ryan
Funny story time:
1. I still have a Powerglide and GV setup spare that did not go with the last dragster sale. It is a 1.80 ratio. That still was the best setup overall for us. The 727 Torqueflite was good, but the tranny brake never released as hard as a Glide does. The 47 RE ATS billet killer deal with Clints's hand built tranny brake had the same issue. Slow release time, and killed 60' times. He worked his a** off making it as good as it was, but for a light car, the lock up was not needed even down track.
2. We tested at least 10 different people's converters. No kidding. That is a black art, blacksmith stuff. The best? Again, Clint at ATS (Shawn actually, their converter guy) built a 11" allison core and a spare when we first started. No needly bearing billet crap, just simple stuff. Still was the best ever. We tried to duplicate it later after destroying the stator in Indy, and could never find the magic. On the starting line, Dustin whacked it to spool,. and when the stator let go, it locked the trans solid, launching the car, redlighting against John Robinson. It he had been able to get the car to shift, he would have run a killer pass.
3. I has a guy at Don Prudhommes trade me a few parts for some diesel stuff. One was a staged set of air timers for a slider clutch. Still have it. Put a air cannon on a 3,4 or 5 disk top fuel clutch, and apply air pressure to slowly lock the clutch up from slipping to full lock set up like a John Force car. Again, still on the shelf in the garage. NEver had the time to build it all and test it.
4. Converter sizing. Some people that I know and have run fast with as little as a 9" converter. We ran a 11", 12", 13", and even still have a 10.5" caddilac with billet stator laying in the garage. The secret lies in one thing. Nope, not the size, not the stator, not the blade angle. Well all of that, but here is one hard learned secret - - TRANS FLUID!
5. Tranny fluid. Sure, we all did the B&M trick shift. Big deal. No effect. Then I ran stock ATS 10W red dyed oil. (OK, there is a bit of differing additives, but so what for 7 seconds). Go buy some 10W, 20W 30W, 40 W and 50W synthetic screw compressor oil. A tranny that worked great for us at Pomona at 7.98 had so stiff of a converter at Denver, it would not light. We started changing oils and it makes a 500-750 RPM change in converters.
OK guys, my beer is dry, time to go to the fridge. Now that I am retired, the secrets mean nothing to me.
Although, Dustin and I talked today. A Common rail, Procharger belt drive, Hy55 variable charger, Glide, GV, Stiff converter in a 2500 pound something to stay stuck, and we may have to dig in the junkyard again for one last spin at this.
Merry Christmas all!