Exhaust pipe bolts---work stock class

[WanaDmxsub]

Where is everyone putting these bolts?
Where are the tech inspectors looking for the bolts to be?

 

[JFlagg]

Most rules state, from what I remember, as close to the turbo as possible. I would say the downpipe would be the best bet.

 

[hpprose]

bump

 

[McRat]

Personally, I'd put it right after the downpipe, in the beginning of the intermediate pipe.

It will be easier to install and easier to tech. You cannot see the downpipe easily on a Dmax without disassembling stuff.

It's pretty fk'g impossible for Dmax with a stock downpipe to spit the turbine out. One look at the downpipe will remove all doubt. It's flat, not round.

For work stock, it is not normally required, especially if you have a muffler or cat.

I am curious why they don't allow you to run the bolts at the tailpipe. I think it's superstition-based.

 

[hpprose]

Makes since. I need to figure out where to put mine. We will probably replace the exhaust from the down pipe back and at that time, we will be adding them.

When you guys do install them, are you using bungs or what to seal the exhaust gasses?

 

[UNBROKEN]

Leaks are what I'm wondering about too. I think I'd weld in some bungs and screw all-thread all the way through...that should seal up nicely.

 

[hpprose]

So, on my 6 leaker, where would you put them Richard?

 

[UNBROKEN]

If the rules say close to the turbo I'd put them right before the first bend. There should be room.
When DJ's turbo blew apart...the wheel came out and stuck into the firewall....they come out with some force...that's for sure.

 

[WUnderwood]

I have heard people cutting the heads off bolts and welding just the heads on, but thats a little fishy, I think.

Mine are in the downpipe, they were welded on the inside, so no one really knows they are in there except me, so the tech guy has to take my word for it

 

[kmkdiesel]

I have heard people cutting the heads off bolts and welding just the heads on, but thats a little fishy, I think.

Mine are in the downpipe, they were welded on the inside, so no one really knows they are in there except me, so the tech guy has to take my word for it

:hehe: Thats more fishy then welding the heads on.

 

[McRat]

Vibration and expansion are a problem. It will start to leak and rattle.

If you drill and tap for the bolt (full threaded bolt or threaded rod) instead of just drilling a hole, it will be a tighter fit, just put a crimp nut on each side, not a nylock (will get loose at about 400deg).

 

[ih4ord]

Mine is right after first bend,after the down pipe.straight pipe is cheaper and easier to replace later.

 

[coon smile]

Mine is right after first bend,after the down pipe.straight pipe is cheaper and easier to replace later.

way cheaper than an hx40 down pipe thats for sure! LOL

 

[jfaulkner]

drill 2 holes all the way through the pipe (both sides) stick 2 long bolts through and weld both ends of each. Takes every bit of 10 minutes. No bungs, no tapping, no leaks and better yet no one gets hit with a 2k deg flying food processor.

It's more effort to cut the heads off the bolts to give the appearance of cross bolts than to actually do it. But I have some friends that are union shop employees so I know people who work harder to avoid work.

 

[Begle1]

It isn't that it's work to put in the bolts, it's that it's exhaust restriction to put in the bolts. So there's a slight benefit to faking it.

What size bolts do you have to use? 1/4? 3/8?

 

[JFlagg]

3/8" if I remember right.

 

[McRat]

drill 2 holes all the way through the pipe (both sides) stick 2 long bolts through and weld both ends of each. Takes every bit of 10 minutes. No bungs, no tapping, no leaks and better yet no one gets hit with a 2k deg flying food processor.

It's more effort to cut the heads off the bolts to give the appearance of cross bolts than to actually do it. But I have some friends that are union shop employees so I know people who work harder to avoid work.

Yes, it is a 10 minute on a Cummins. But this is a Dmax owner asking the question.

Bet you can't even remove the stock down pipe on a Dmax in 2 hrs. Heck, I bet it takes you 10 minutes to FIND it.

Just drill a hole is OK for trailer queens but if you plan on putting over 20,000 miles on your truck, it won't do. The holes get larger and larger as time goes on, you get the oily soot everywhere, and eventually it fails entirely anyhow.

The Dmax is the newcomer to sledpulling, so most the rules are based on the experience of Dodge guys.

But it's now been 7 years, so it's time for the Dodge guys to take a look at other trucks before saying what is what. Not everything has a Goat glued to it anymore.

The factory downpipe is a VERY tight fit in all three axis. The trans tube, clamp, risers, oil drain, charger, shield, firewall, A/C all make it near impossible to remove that tube. It can be done, but it's a very, very tight fit. There is not extra room there for anything.

The factory turbine exducer is 3", the downpipe is 1.5". Yes, you read that correctly. The body of the turbine (minus fins) won't fit. Only small pieces of blades could make it, and crossbolt have no effect on those.

I also have aftermarket downpipes for the factory charger, and guess what? The turbine won't fit down them either, at least with the blades on it, it won't.

Look at this picture. That bolt is a 3/8" bolt. There is a ruler in the pic too. The head is a stainless steel investment casting, not a tube. Not room for a bolt head or nut. And since it's flat, "cross-bolts" would be a serious restriction and requires a very long bolt. You would not be able to get the pipe back in with the bolt heads/nuts protruding anyhow, it's that tight on the engine side of the pipe. Where the red arrow is, is 1/2" - 1 1/2" internal width.

But if you put it just after the downpipe, you CAN do it in about 3 hours with simple tools, and without disassembling your WORK STOCK engine to do it. It won't have any effect, but it will at least fit. Isn't that what it's all about?

I'm sure you're trying to be helpful, but please understand they asked the question because they did not know the answer, so saying "IT'S GRAVY I CAN DO IT IN 10!!" is pretty pointless since nobody on Earth has.

 

[McRat]

.... Takes every bit of 10 minutes. ....

Just in case you WEREN'T trying to help the guy, here's another comedy pic, concerning your silly comments on multiple driveshaft hoops on all trucks.

Note that the truck is on a LIFT right now. And when you hook up, it pulls the back down. The only threat that rear joint poses is for killing gophers, and regardless of what Hillary says, they aren't an endangered species. The only way for the driveshaft or Ujoints can injure somebody is if they puncture the bed of the truck first. It's a GMC working truck so the bed is steel.

 

[JOHNBOY]

I did my Dmax two years ago as said above. I did the my LBZ also.

I drilled my front pipe not the downpipe. Drilled two 3/8" holes all the way thru. Then welded them in. My front pipe is very easy to get out. It V band clamps to the down pipe and is held to the rest of exaust with a stainless band clamp. Have a Summit racing 4" 304 SS exhaust. IIRC it took less than 30 mins to do and cost less then $3. I really like this set uo because every turbo I have had needed a different Downpipe. But the front pipe always stayed. Also it is pretty easy to point the bolts out to the tech (Dieter or Gene) when it is on the scales. Bolts in the down pipe are hard to easily see unless your turbo is hanging of the side of the engine.:woohoo:


IMHO all trucks that pull or drag race should have cross bolts, and Steel hoods. I also think diesel rails should have there turbos shrouded and have cross bolts like tractor pullers.:rules:

 

[GOT-Torque]

My bolts are in the front of the first pipe past the downpipe. Welded them on both sides to prevent leaks. Easily visible and won't need changed if I change downpipes...