F250/Cummins Swap

Oh yeah. Mounted the RIFE dual band pressure sensor. Need to drop the wiring and run a hose to the line pressure port.

The other sensor will be drive pressure when I get around to assembling a coil and a soot trap.
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What is your wheel/tire combo and offset? Also are you on stock suspension? My fummins swap truck came with a 6 inch rough country lift already on it. I removed it and installed the factory suspension with the 4 inch blocks in the rear, but the rear seems to sit 2-3 inches higher than the front.

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thatguy69 said:
What is your wheel/tire combo and offset? Also are you on stock suspension? My fummins swap truck came with a 6 inch rough country lift already on it. I removed it and installed the factory suspension with the 4 inch blocks in the rear, but the rear seems to sit 2-3 inches higher than the front.

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Let me do some digging.
Stock suspension with a leaf helper in the rear from previous owner.

Fuel renegade D265 20X10 and I will have to find the offset (I have - 44 in my head but no idea why)

Tires are 33X12.50 Cooper Zeon LTZ

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Back to a gas gauge face, and fixed some of the LED's that had cold solder joints. Prndl is now all lit, Just realizing I desoldered the 1st gear indicator when I meant to do 3rd.

Redid the blue overlay to reduce hot spots (brightness) under the numerals.

Just need to get the oil switch sorted and the gear selection.
Gauge face came from Usspeedo.com. It's white rather than the silver that it was before.
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Looks good I like the blue. What's your issue with the oil pressure? I have mine working but i wish it went to a gauge instead of an idiot light. Also would like to utilize the trans temp gauge but I swapped out my 5r for a zf6 and the temp reading comes from the pressure transducer in the 5r I beleive.

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thatguy69 said:
Looks good I like the blue. What's your issue with the oil pressure? I have mine working but i wish it went to a gauge instead of an idiot light. Also would like to utilize the trans temp gauge but I swapped out my 5r for a zf6 and the temp reading comes from the pressure transducer in the 5r I beleive.

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I just spliced the cummins switch and wire to the Ford PCM wire. I have never checked to see what the conflict is, I just assume that the logic is inverted for one of them.

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What's up with your airbag light?just got mine going and I have it also, but wasn't sure if it was because I have the passenger seat out yet. Do you have any of your gauges working minus speedo/tach?

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thatguy69 said:
What's up with your airbag light?just got mine going and I have it also, but wasn't sure if it was because I have the passenger seat out yet. Do you have any of your gauges working minus speedo/tach?

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Trans temp is non functional. Sensor is installed, but I don't want to open the harness to run the wiring (was going to do it this weekend and honey-do got me)
I honestly had forgotten about engine oil temp because it has the diesel overlay for so long. I will have to investigate it.

Air bag light happened some time during or right after the swap. Codes say its the steering wheel bag. I hope it's a bad connection where I swapped the tap shift lever and had wires undone.

Also need to sort out the SMART charging system to get the batt light out.

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our whole top row of gauges are differant. Mine goes map/coolant temp/trans temp/fuel level. I used all 6.4 sensors and adapted them to my motor and also used the 6.4 alternator and ac compressor, so I guess were in a different boat.

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thatguy69 said:
our whole top row of gauges are differant. Mine goes map/coolant temp/trans temp/fuel level. I used all 6.4 sensors and adapted them to my motor and also used the 6.4 alternator and ac compressor, so I guess were in a different boat.

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Hahahaha I'm starting to think I'm the only idiot in the country that swapped a 5.4 truck.

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I like learning from others mistakes lol

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So the airbag light is the clock spring (typical).

I've heard people talk about tearing the clock spring by turning the wheel while the cab is up. That's likely what got mine, but it would be hard to to that without really cranking the thing. Mine is shorted across multiple pins.

The ribbon has 90 Degree bends the turn the ribbon into the back of the connector housings. I'm relatively certain the failure is there the wires in the ribbon cross one another in this bend.
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I have the same issue, didn't have it before the swap and lifting the cab but now I do. I may have bumper the wheel a few times but always re centered it.

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Well.... The clock spring wasn't it.

Connector C219 was together but unclipped. I have no idea how, but I know I was behind it messing with the throttle during the swap.

No more air bag light.

On the bright side, I'm going to raise the center console vertically. I have a lot of trouble because I'm tall enough that I lean over to rest my arm on the console.

I guess I'll call the clock spring preventative maintenance.
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Anyway you can get me some more pictures like the last one you just posted? I'm chasing my tail on a pats issue and I can use all the help I can get. I have a basic wiring diagram for the 08 f350 but that's about it

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I didn't get a good picture of the finished hardware, but I got the line pressure sensor connected. I ended up using a russle/edelbrock prefab - 3 brake hose to just from the sensor to the trans line port, a 45 degree adapter and a compucheck quick connect. I left the compucheck in the event that the trans needs removal or the line let's go it can simply be removed by hand and self sealed.

Next move is to build the coil for the drive pressure and connect it.
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