FASS is consistant.

Signature600 said:
My old FASS HPFP did the same thing....I cut it out and put a circuit breaker in it. I'll never run another FASS or Airdog until I stop seeing stuff like this.

Chris
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I see I'm not the only one that has had this problem. It would melt the fuse holder before it blew the fuse :confused: I went through two fuse holders and a handful of fuses before I did likeChris and put a circuit breaker in. That was only a year and a half ago but no problems yet.

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Ron try a screw post breaker the amps fass wants. Solder the terminals and heat shrink. Both those melt downs are from a poor connection creating heat.

Edit.....solder the terminal to the wire of course. Screw connection to the breaker.
 
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Brushless motors. The 200 series can be switched on a toggle to run low side on the street and high side when needed.
 

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The 100 series is a true 100gph. With a standard filter that can be bought at any truck shop and most auto parts stores. So no waiting on special filters.

The 200 series can be seitched from the low to high side with a toggle. Has air seperation built into it and also has a standard filter.
 
i have my FASS's set @ 85psi (HD and FA) in a compoundish set up that FASS came up for me, have not had a single issue. seen pressure drop 20psi then right back up on the first dyno pull and the next 2 pulls the needle just wiggled a little

the pumps had about 10min of run time and about 3 miles on them before the dyno runs
 
woodsrat said:
The 100 series is a true 100gph. With a standard filter that can be bought at any truck shop and most auto parts stores. So no waiting on special filters.

The 200 series can be seitched from the low to high side with a toggle. Has air seperation built into it and also has a standard filter.
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I will be getting in touch with you when I need one for the 1/2 ton....Those look very nice!

Chris
 
I guess I have the only FASS on the planet that won't die.
It's a BETA test high pressure pump they sent me back in 05ish to try on my 6.0.
Can't remember what it was set at but I had it boost referenced and it would show right at 100 psi on the gauge at full boost.
I changed the spring to a low pressure one when I put the Cummins in...still use the same adjustable regulator though. It sits at 22psi at idle and is 80+ at full boost.
The damned thing is even wired into the OEM fuel pump wiring...has been since day one. It's a noisy bastard but it's got 7 years and well over 100,000 miles on it...sounds the same as the day I put it in and works like a charm.

Knocking on wood now...
 
woodsrat said:
The 100 series is a true 100gph. With a standard filter that can be bought at any truck shop and most auto parts stores. So no waiting on special filters.

The 200 series can be seitched from the low to high side with a toggle. Has air seperation built into it and also has a standard filter.
Click to expand...
Any units designed for 12V or no? Doesn't seem so according to the information on the sales bulletin. Just 24V/Commonrail and Duramax stuff.
 
UNBROKEN said:
I guess I have the only FASS on the planet that won't die.
It's a BETA test high pressure pump they sent me back in 05ish to try on my 6.0.
Can't remember what it was set at but I had it boost referenced and it would show right at 100 psi on the gauge at full boost.
I changed the spring to a low pressure one when I put the Cummins in...still use the same adjustable regulator though. It sits at 22psi at idle and is 80+ at full boost.
The damned thing is even wired into the OEM fuel pump wiring...has been since day one. It's a noisy bastard but it's got 7 years and well over 100,000 miles on it...sounds the same as the day I put it in and works like a charm.

Knocking on wood now...
Click to expand...

I don't like you any more.
 
Ron, you can fit a couple slim fans in front of the A/C condenser and radiator. I have seen another 1st Genner do it. Maybe Jim Lane on DTR?
 
I've got an HTT intercooler and 2 tranny coolers there now and the grill is bulging.
 
What about a waterman cable drive? It is a mechanical pump, but driven off of a flexible cable.
 
or maybe a flexplate driven deal? wouldn't want to rely on the ring gear to drive it just because of wear, but something could be thought up

The one I'm making now is actually run off of the fan hub pulley, its a little screwy finding a pump with the right flow/pressure/rpm range seeing that the fan hub is overdriven a bit (i think by 30% or close to that) anyways... long "timing belt" (light series belt of Mcmaster carr) and you are in business

just a thought... all this headache I'd probably be thinking electric at sometime as well
 
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