First Gen Junker Drag truck feasibility.

D

dpaqu

New member
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
99
Got a 2WD 93 D250 in my sights for a Junker Drag truck inspired build. Its got the 518 in it. While I know I won't be as brilliantly frugal as BigBlue I'm wondering how foolish it is to attempt this with a first gen. The only plus to a first gen that I know of is its better looking and about 500lbs lighter. I'm not a slave to the VE and am entertaining the idea of a pump swap or engine swap to a p-pump. Then I'm wondering if I should swap the a518 for a 47rh. At this point I might as well swap the entire drivetrain over from a 94-98 truck.

Unless someone corrects me that will be a big PIA with fabricated trans mount and shortened driveshaft.

What do you guys think? Is dealing with the a518 and ve pump worth the effort?

Here's a pick of the disaster I'm eyeballing.

00y0y_gcZhsVDP6Tl_600x450.jpg
 
Depends on what u want it to do really, u can make a ve truck quick, but they have a pretty low ceiling compared to a ppump.
 
Brad Ponci's daughter goes low 12s or high 11s with a VE. I think its a s360/s471 with a 47rh.
 
I would simply buy a 1/2ton short bed then install the p-pump engine with 47rh.

Go ahead and get this truck you are looking at to pull your drag truck to the track. lol
 
Bodacious said:
I would simply buy a 1/2ton short bed then install the p-pump engine with 47rh.

Go ahead and get this truck you are looking at to pull your drag truck to the track. lol
Click to expand...

Ding ding ding! Winner.


Do you have a proposed budget?
 
So I took your recommendations and bought it. 185K miles on her. Interior is pretty clean. I mean the dash isn't cracked and it has the original radio and the door kick panels are in good shape. Headliner is falling apart a little bit and well it does have 185K miles on it. Smoked a touch on a cold start but cleared up. The pump does not appear to be touched. Truck shifts through the gears rather well and the trans fluid smelled good. Engine oil was dirty but not ridiculously so. Bed is rusted around the rear wheels but the cab looks very good. Exhaust looks stock and is badly rusted. Even the downpipe might be leaking. Pics will follow when I get organized. Oh yeah my wallet is now $3500k lighter.

I'm glad I bought it but I have to admit it was a lack of focus on my part as I was looking for a truck like big blue's. I really wanted to try my hand at building a twin turbo setup with my Chinese MIG welder and then tuning it. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on this pump so I'm not sure if I can deliver the fuel to make twins worth the trouble. Right now I guess I'll just focus on going through the front end and seeing if I can find a deal on a rust free bed.
 
Highwayman said:
Ding ding ding! Winner.


Do you have a proposed budget?
Click to expand...

I didn't want to buy a truck over $5k. At this point I'd like to see how far $3k and some elbow grease gets me over the next 6 months but I'm going to have to do a lot of research especially now that I can't just copy the Junker Drag truck. I want to keep the budget small in case I see a good deal on something with a P pump and 47rh in it.

The other problem is this isn't actually in bad shape. I figured for sure the first thing I would be doing after a dodge Cummins purchase was going through the trans but this thing is not bad. Again I need to research more about the A518 but maybe the first thing after going through the suspension will be getting a pyro gauge set up. I'm also really curious about the turbo drive pressure so I may look into getting that going.
 
Ouch, $1200 more than I'd have given for it, but I don't know availability in your area. I missed out on a running 94 cummins/auto/2wd with 200k for $1000 by a couple hours last summer
 
The 47rh swap is pretty straight forward. The stock crossmember can be used although you'll need to re-drill new mounting holes in it. You'll also need a 2nd gen engine to trans adapter plate and starter. Shortening the driveshaft is relatively cheap, just find a local driveline shop and they should be able to do it fairly easy and cheap. I think that's about it.
 
I hope you are better to sticking to a budget than myself.
I bought my pile for $1400, and have spent that much more countless times...

It adds up QUICK. However, like you said elbow grease. you can spend 1-2k on piping for twins, or depending on what you have laying around, buy a few flanges and have it for a fraction of the cost.

GOOD LUCK!



also, if you are ever around eastern NC, I may know where a 47rh is....
 
You should be able to do pretty well, especially if you run water meth and or nitrous. I know C12H26 went like low 12s with a basically stock truck including the trans.
 
I know it's adding a bit of weight. BUT you'd better keep the old man running boards and dog dish caps. Super sleeper you have there.

Like said above, Brad's girl makes good passes with a lock up and smallish compounds.

It all depends on how fast you want to go. You can make good passes with a VE. You can't be the top dog but running mid pack isn't the worst thing to happen to a guy.
 
1stgensleeper. I didn't realize I could just redrill the holes in the crossmember. Did you mean frame and move the cross member back? Can I use any 47rh or re or just ones from a diesel?

My goal is a low 13 maybe high 12 sec truck on fuel.

Since its just a project truck and no need to drive it im thinking about pulling the head off or maybe the whole engine and seeing what I'm dealing with. Does anyone rent that o ring tool? What would be the best low cost stud solution? I have access to some non intercooled pistons for $100 and have access to a lathe. Would copying bigblue piston bowl mods be advisable on a VE? If I did all the homemade valve and head porting work he did I'd have plenty of time to look for deals on 94-98 engine drivetrain parts.
 
dpaqu said:
My goal is a low 13 maybe high 12 sec truck on fuel.
Click to expand...

I talked to my buddy, and he has a pretty good combo from about 10 years ago...

RockJeep73 because he's too lazy to do it said:
It was hx35/40, pod's, pump maxed, ground fuel pin, 4000 gov spring, timing 1/8", home made water/meth, cheater slicks, bone stock 3 speed and converter. Went 13.32 at 98mph. No intercooler either.
Click to expand...
 
If I can take a club-cab 4x4 with a 46RH and run a 12.67 with a 12mm VE, you can easily do the same or better with a standard-cab and a 47RH (if you can get it to hook up).
 
Last edited:
What did you do to your 46rh to make it live running 12s? My research shows the 46rh with the front planetary from a 47rh, a aftermarket converter, shift kit and some fresh clutches and steels should hold up pretty well. I'm guessing:

$600 for the converter,
$120 shift kit
$100 for the 5 pinion steel planetary and intermediate shaft from a 47rh.
$400 for the clutches, steels, shims and gaskets.
 
If this is a true budget build then stick with the 518.

Your prices are a little high
Spec Rite converter with steel stator is the best thing I have found for non lockup guys ~ 600
Rebuild kit with clutches and steels about 200 on eBay
Transgo shift kit about 80 on eBay
About 100 for planetary and shaft
I would do the apply lever, anchor, and strut while your at it.

Before we switched to the 47re in my brothers truck we went low 11's with the 518. Stock clutches with 1 added in direct, valve body, spec rite converter
 
Do the clutch packs need to be Kolene steels and whatever red kevlar clutches? I guess I'm asking if I need to look for anything specific on my eBay clutch pack.

apply lever, anchor, and strut
Click to expand...

Are these 46rh specific or generic to the 47rh/re?

I've never pulled one of these apart before so this will be a learning experience
 
I must confess that I launch at 25psig boost. :drive:

And yes, it is a 46RH (A518) . . . . case . . :evil


. . . .. with a 48RE rotating assembly . . . . with all three 6-pinion steel planetarys . . . .. on all three billet/steel shafts. . .. . with increased clutch/steel counts. n . . . stuff.
The NON lock-up converter is an off-the-shelf with the billet backing-plate from Suncoast. I've had them tighten it up a couple of times including adding a billet stator thingy.


As far as the 3-speed section goes, you've a wide open choice of stuff as most of it is interchangeable with aftermarket stuff for the 727 all the way up to the 48RE (think bigdog gasser applications as well).
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top