stubz616
New member
Found an old thread on Cummins forum that Google sent me to. Read it and tried it out to see if it would work because my bed was already off my truck. Here's what it involved...
Problem: Fuel gauge dropping to empty when there was a half tank of fuel (Dead Spots in resistors sweep causing signal to fall out)
Solution:
Pull sending unit out and you'll see the metal plate that holds the sensor down to the plastic basket.
You'll have to take that plate off and turn it around so the rounded edge is on top of the pivot for the fuel level sender's arm. Mark and drill a hole just larger than the plastic "tower" sticking up. (A 7/32" drill it worked for me... And a little filing)
Then get a spring that fits down inside the recessed portion of the pivot for the arm
I cut the height about flush with the top of the plastic "tower" and installed spring with the cut side down (just to put the sharper cut where nothing is moving by it)
You can see where the spring goes and how the hole in the plate is for the "tower" to stick through upon reassembly
Finished product looked like this and float arm should move pretty freely. I set the tension of the spring (by cutting it shorter) until the arm would just barely fall with the sending unit held upright when assembled
Gauge works perfect now with no more dead spots causing the gauge to drop to Empty and making the low fuel light come on. Hope this helps someone else. Definitely cheaper than buying a new sender or whole fuel module.
Problem: Fuel gauge dropping to empty when there was a half tank of fuel (Dead Spots in resistors sweep causing signal to fall out)
Solution:
Pull sending unit out and you'll see the metal plate that holds the sensor down to the plastic basket.
You'll have to take that plate off and turn it around so the rounded edge is on top of the pivot for the fuel level sender's arm. Mark and drill a hole just larger than the plastic "tower" sticking up. (A 7/32" drill it worked for me... And a little filing)
Then get a spring that fits down inside the recessed portion of the pivot for the arm
I cut the height about flush with the top of the plastic "tower" and installed spring with the cut side down (just to put the sharper cut where nothing is moving by it)
You can see where the spring goes and how the hole in the plate is for the "tower" to stick through upon reassembly
Finished product looked like this and float arm should move pretty freely. I set the tension of the spring (by cutting it shorter) until the arm would just barely fall with the sending unit held upright when assembled
Gauge works perfect now with no more dead spots causing the gauge to drop to Empty and making the low fuel light come on. Hope this helps someone else. Definitely cheaper than buying a new sender or whole fuel module.