Flexplate bolts

Black Diesel

Black Diesel

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Jun 14, 2013
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Going to be installing some ARP flexplate bolts prior to my new trans going in and I had some questions. As per the instructions it says to use Loctite 242 on the threads and their lube under the head, is it detrimental that I keep these 2 from mixing? Also torque spec is 120 ft/lbs. as far as sequence goes should I go in 3 equal steps (60, 90, 120) or would another method work better? Im just worried about these backing out because my buddy's keep backing out on his 6.7 and I want to keep it from happening. He's turning 5k and we've used red Loctite on the oem bolts taken to 103 ft/lbs and they've backed out again. Trying to prevent this from happening to me. Any and all input appreciated.


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If you want the loctite to work as designed, it is critical that the male and female threads are completely oil free.


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Is the Arp bolt the best solution on the bolts backing out?

My old truck cracked a suncoast billet flex plate as a result of a bolt backing out and dont want to have that issue again.
 
bgreen776 said:
If you want the loctite to work as designed, it is critical that the male and female threads are completely oil free.


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I will apply the ARP lube to the under side of the bolt head and the Loctite to the threads as per the instructions.


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blackmega3500 said:
Is the Arp bolt the best solution on the bolts backing out?

My old truck cracked a suncoast billet flex plate as a result of a bolt backing out and dont want to have that issue again.
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I would say they're a better option than the OEM bolts. Higher torque value, higher tensile strength, harder material, etc. I would say they're my best option.


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If you are dead set on having lube on the underside of the bolt head, put a little locktite on that part in addition to the threads, but I wouldn't think the surface of the bolt head is large enough to throw the amount of torque off by much.
 
I use factory oem bolts from a manual truck. They are a bit longer. Also, important to chase holes in crank each time. Make sure end of crank is nice and flat and corrosion free. Red loctite at 120ft lbs. I would not use lube.
 
I would be looking at something that is causing excessive vibration
 
zstroken said:
I would be looking at something that is causing excessive vibration
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I also think this is an issue, I used to have issues running MJ converter. got rid of everything to do with that guy and problems seamed to go away!!
 
To be clear the problem with bolts backing out is not with my truck, it's with a buddy's. I just want to prevent this from happening to me. If I would be better off just using Loctite and taking to 120 ft/lbs, so be it. I'll chase the threads in the crank prior to installing the new trans.


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Are you(I mean your friend, just kidding) having issues with the damper bolts?

I know years ago, I had an issue and my damper bolts wouldn't stay tight, I could tighten them and after the second pulling pass, they would be loose. After one hook, it sounded like I had a rod knocking at idle, after investigating, my flexplate bolts had come loose(after short recollection it turned out to be a SMH moment) Tightened up the flexplate bolts(blue loctite IIRC) and poof no more damper bolt issues either.
 
zstroken said:
Are you(I mean your friend, just kidding) having issues with the damper bolts?

I know years ago, I had an issue and my damper bolts wouldn't stay tight, I could tighten them and after the second pulling pass, they would be loose. After one hook, it sounded like I had a rod knocking at idle, after investigating, my flexplate bolts had come loose(after short recollection it turned out to be a SMH moment) Tightened up the flexplate bolts(blue loctite IIRC) and poof no more damper bolt issues either.
Click to expand...


He still has the stock 6.7 dampner but has 225k on it and it doesn't seem to like spinning at or near 5k. He has ordered a fluid dampner for it, ARP bolts for the dampner and flex plate in hopes it will keep things tight. I don't have a fluid dampner on my 5.9 but I won't see those rpms he will. At most on the street I'd like to see 4500 ish and for dyno pulls but other than that it'll stay 4200 and below. The new engine I'm building will be internally balanced, have a fluid dampner, and ARP everywhere I can put them. But for now I'd like to keep from having issues.


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If memory serves me right, the holes in the crank are M12 x 1.25? Can anyone confirm this for me?


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