Ford 9"

MDW said:
We seem to have some smart people in this thread so answer this question.
What rear do you recommend for a 4500lbs Pro Street truck running 9's?
2 options:
1. Unlimited budget
2. Limited budget, lets say $2k or less.
Full Floater for safety.
Light as possible.
3.54 ratio or less.

Whatcha Got? :)
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Since you say light as possible I would say a ford 9". Granted it isn't a full floater, but how many axles have really came out of them compared to how many high, high HP vehicles are making passes in them? With an unlimited budget get a fab 9 or similar housing, moser 40 spline axles, spool, and you could pick who ever's center section, use a richmond pro gear, wilwood or aerspace disc brakes, there are many routes to go. Just my 2 cents.
 
DieselWrencher said:
Since you say light as possible I would say a ford 9". Granted it isn't a full floater, but how many axles have really came out of them compared to how many high, high HP vehicles are making passes in them? With an unlimited budget get a fab 9 or similar housing, moser 40 spline axles, spool, and you could pick who ever's center section, use a richmond pro gear, wilwood or aerspace disc brakes, there are many routes to go. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

I might have to make a full float 9
 
Yeah, i'd think I'd try something to. That is crazy. I wonder what spindle they use? Because I'm sure Moser can make the axle for it.
 
Rollin Coal said:
that has to be the stupidest thing ive heard in a long time.

gee my axle doesnt go lower than 3.55's let me run a custom made 35" slick on my lowered 2wd truck. :kick:
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Stupid...... #1. what would lowered have to do with this... #2. How would you figure that getting a set of tires at less then the cost of the case and gears is stupid...

Lets see.... make a pass and im 500 rpm off of where i want to be.....

Soooooooo...i buy another case, gears, or get the tire that only needs to be 1 inch taller...for less then half that...


Get the same benefit at less cost and get the increased benefit of added contact patch....Yeah i guess that is stupid...
 
Supershafts said:
Stupid...... #1. what would lowered have to do with this... #2. How would you figure that getting a set of tires at less then the cost of the case and gears is stupid...

Lets see.... make a pass and im 500 rpm off of where i want to be.....

Soooooooo...i buy another case, gears, or get the tire that only needs to be 1 inch taller...for less then half that...


Get the same benefit at less cost and get the increased benefit of added contact patch....Yeah i guess that is stupid...
Click to expand...

do you have any idea what you are talking about at all.

to reach wheel speed of 3.07's and a 31" tall tire with 3.55's you'd have to run a 36" tall tire.

and what does lowered have to do with it...... it makes less room to fit a tire :bang:bang

lets compare prices. mt, hoosier, m&h, goodyear, pretty much everyone makes a 31" tall slick, in the $150-300 range

the one 36" tall slick i saw was $636

so yeah, to sum it up, stupid.
 
DieselWrencher said:
Yeah, i'd think I'd try something to. That is crazy. I wonder what spindle they use? Because I'm sure Moser can make the axle for it.
Click to expand...

I've seen a couple rock-crawl guys use the spindles from a GM 14 bolt. You would need a 9" housing of your choice, the spindles from a 14 bolt, and custom shafts from an axle manufacturer. Then use an alignment jig with machined pucks so that the spindles will be lined up right with the carrier bearings when you weld it all up. Nothing too advanced about it.

Pirate4x4.com has tons of info regarding custom axle builds.
 
Npe3484, thanks for the info. I figured someone had already done it. You could definitely do it for way less than 4k for sure.
 
Rollin Coal said:
do you have any idea what you are talking about at all.

to reach wheel speed of 3.07's and a 31" tall tire with 3.55's you'd have to run a 36" tall tire.

and what does lowered have to do with it...... it makes less room to fit a tire :bang:bang

lets compare prices. mt, hoosier, m&h, goodyear, pretty much everyone makes a 31" tall slick, in the $150-300 range

the one 36" tall slick i saw was $636

so yeah, to sum it up, stupid.
Click to expand...


Apparently you read nothing of what i said....

Seems people for years have been doing the cheater slicks for far less then 200...let alone 600 like you....

i'll leave it at that rather then compare prices...
 
yeah leave it at that, because you have no freaking clue what your talking about.

find me a 36" slick for $200

then make it fit on a street driven vehicle.

this isnt a gas motor revving to 7000+ rpm, torque is gone after 3500-3800 rpm.
 
I know every slick I have purchased has yet to be less than $150 each. The Hoosier 31x14x15's that I am looking at are $265 ea.
 
That is because you never looked for a reason to run a cheater style slick, so why would you know about a factory lookin tire treaded or not with the sticky rubber...drag radials didn't come from some guy's idea at bfg, im sure they seen that somewhere...
I ran a 32 goodyear vista with the retread sticky rubber, we got away with murder on the street with claimed bald tires, that was years ago
This tire cheating stuff has been part of street racing and oval cheating for years....

rollin i have a very good idea there out of torque, but usually when there racing strictly drag and gone thru for more power and lightened somewhat internally there not just run to 3300 or 3800, some even leave at 4000, some are a bit higher....

God forbid you found another way...right, imagine that...

Sorry for letting you know...
 
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