frankenstien needs a new franken motor and I could use some franken help.

T

Todd W

Comp Diesel Sponsor
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
784
So my hopeful Diesel power challenge truck is getting a fresh motor. I have done a few engine builds, but feel I could do a higher quality build with the help of you guys. I have been searching everything I can on engine assembly. There are many threads dealing with 1 aspect of a build, and I am hoping to accumulate all necessary info into 1 place. So lets start, please fill in blanks and add what you know. This engine is a planned 1200 WHP build so keep tolerances to that type of build. based on my research I will fill in what I know. please correct any problems you might see.

.035-.040 Piston to head clearance
.007-.008 piston to wall clearance
??? Piston to valve clearance
piston ring gap clearance
.024 Top ring
.022 Second ring
??? Oil ring
??? Main bearing clearance
??? Rod bearing clearance
???crank thrust clearance

My piston clearance are from mahle. I am going to use mahle PN 930036435

http://www.us.mahle.com/media/motorsports/app-guide-2014-diesel.pdf

I talked with Jason who consulted with their engineer on those clearances. He said the piston in a 4.035 bore has .006 clearance, which is right in middle of there suggested amounts. the engineer said I could go up to .008 but recommended .007 for my intended use. He said those ring gaps are the top of their clearance specs but it wouldn't hurt to add a little more gap.


How do you guys like to prepare you cylinders and rings.
I am thinking of using total seal quick seat. any opinions on this stuff
http://www.totalseal.com/tools-lubricants.html

If you don't like that stuff what do you do for your piston cylinder lube/prep?

what types of lubes do you like for cams and lifters?
what lubes for bearings?
Lube on piston pins?
lube on pushrods?
lube on rockers?

what brand of bearings do you like. i have used King bearings in the past, anyone have any problems with these?

Well that should get us started. Please add any info you have and add any category that I may have missed.
 
My top ring Is .030 and the second ring is .032. Left the oil control ring alone. Piston protrusion on my motor is .027 which brings piston to head clearance to around .023-.028 (if the stock thickness .066 head gasket crushes to .050 or there about) this isn't gospel but it's what I've got going for my blue truck. Trying to retain compression, which you should try to do as well.
 
For assembly I use these. Lubriplate from napa, Lucas HD oil stabilizer and high performance Lucas assembly lube. Use liberally.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387568.585951.jpg
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
My top ring Is .030 and the second ring is .032. Left the oil control ring alone. Piston protrusion on my motor is .027 which brings piston to head clearance to around .023-.028 (if the stock thickness .066 head gasket crushes to .050 or there about) this isn't gospel but it's what I've got going for my blue truck. Trying to retain compression, which you should try to do as well.
Click to expand...

I don't know what ideal compression is. I am using the highest compression piston of the aftermarket mahle piston which I want to use. I do like the higher compression for street duties for sure, makes a big difference. But I want this to live at 1200+ so I think the low 15's will be a good compromise.
 
I have been reading up on different lubes and am considering using driven products. I have used their break in oils before and have had good results.
I am thinking of this stuff for cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, wrist pins and geartrain.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/assembly-grease-1-lb-tubhtml/

and using this stuff for main and rod bearings.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hvl-high-viscosity-lubricanthtml/

I will also be using their break in oil

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/br-break-in-oilhtml/


Am still leaning towards quick seat for cylinders and pistons.
 
Last edited:
The owner of our machine shop ( mostly boosted ls stuff ) uses Joe Gibbs assembly lube as does another friend who puts together pulling motors. We have used red line assembly lube for the last 3 without issues.

The clearances and ring gaps seem small to me, but I am looking from the pulling side of things.
 
Always used a straight grade John Deere break in oil because it's handy. Think I was pulling 1200-1400's on it before I changed it. Assembly lube just some red tacky **** from napa in a short round bottle with a flip up nozzle. No use spending a cranial hp on that.

Bearings I like to see the high end of cummins spec and then run a 20w50 racing grade. Like Royal purple myself. Again it's what handy here.
 
Joesixpack said:
Always used a straight grade John Deere break in oil because it's handy. Think I was pulling 1200-1400's on it before I changed it. Assembly lube just some red tacky **** from napa in a short round bottle with a flip up nozzle. No use spending a cranial hp on that.

Bearings I like to see the high end of cummins spec and then run a 20w50 racing grade. Like Royal purple myself. Again it's what handy here.
Click to expand...


How far on the high end. Examples possibly
 
For what it's worth I build stock cummins engines for a living and all I will has is Lubriplate
 
I'm not near my notes but want to say 4-5 thou on both the mains and rods. Thrust min 4 thou max 15. This last engine I threw the old bearings back in as they looked like new. Factory pump has no problem maintaining pressure on the 20w50. Some billet rods you need to make sure there's enough side clearance as well. That number escapes me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top