Fuel shut off solenoid

N

nilsson

New member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
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193
Hello.

My fuel shut off solenoid did not work anymore. Have to lift it by hand.
Is it worth try repair?
How is the Ebay china solenoid?
Expensive from Dodge/Cummins dealer?

Thanks
 
I've dealt with Larry for mine.
 
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We have several paying Vendors that can get them for you....The others listed above don't support CompD....Just sayin'
 
Thanks for your posts.
I think i first try to disassemble and clean.

Regards
 
Bought a holdwell from Amazon for 65$ shipped. Be sure to measure the bolt spacing so you get the right one, also there is a price difference between the 2.5 and 3" versions
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Have not seen or installed it yet, bought it for my dads 05 since his solenoid just burned up. Napa wanted 700$ and my dad just about passed out. Lol
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The solenoid may be bad, but don't forget to check the connections at the + terminal on driver's side battery. The small blue wire can be a real issue with the solenoid.
 
biggy238 said:
They removed the 2005 engine and installed a 12 valve that uses the same solenoid
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When he said "my dad's", it threw me off too. I thought that was his truck. :doh:


YoungGuns, you should let us know how you like it.
 
Napa actually wanted 700$ for a 12 valve fuel shutoff solenoid, kind of ridiculous! That's why we went to Amazon, one day shipping is an extra 5$ so we couldn't go wrong there. Sorry for the confusion. It is my dads truck, but it will practically be mine in a couple years, I also do enough work on it that I could claim it easily. LOL
 
nilsson said:
I think i first try to disassemble and clean.
Click to expand...

The FSS is almost bulletproof, my original one lasted well over 500k miles. The first things to check is the fuse and the fusible link. If you remove and clean it up use a dry lube on the plunger.
 
GAmes said:
The FSS is almost bulletproof, my original one lasted well over 500k miles. The first things to check is the fuse and the fusible link. If you remove and clean it up use a dry lube on the plunger.
Click to expand...

Also had my relay go bad, but still send enough power to trip a test light.
 
Usually when I've seen the solenoid actually fail it gets a little crispy. Most of the time it is a supply issue. Whether that be the relay on the pull or hold side. As mentioned get to checking before you call it quits. There are two relays on the firewall above the injection pump. Those are the FSS relays. One for pull up and one for hold. Should have a hot, 2 key ons (or start position on) and a good ground on each relay. The hold relay should be key on hot on one wire. The pull up should be hot on one wire only with key in start position. Ground is on either pin 85 or 86. The key on and start hot wire will be on 85 or 86 (whichever isn't used for ground). Then the constant hot is 30 or 87 and key on (or start on) on the opposite wire.

Sounds confusing but you can look at a few relay diagrams and get a better idea.

Check the flat blade amp (weatherpack on some) connector at the solenoid as well. Most of the connectors are not rated for near what the FSS sees. Extended periods of cranking fries things on the pull up side and causes issues a lot of times.

Long story short get to testing first. Once you have confirmed all of your supplies are good to go then start looking for a FSS.
 
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My Fss wasn't lifting either but would stay up if I lifted by hand with the key on. Ended up being the blue wire. It was very coroded.
 
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