Gear case to block oil leak - advices wanted for the major repair

TrailTamer

TrailTamer

New member
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Messages
246
I've been chasing down my oil leaks. Yesterday I replaced the front seal and sealed the cover. I then found that the case to front of block is where it actually is steady leaking from.

From what I can tell it's a major repair to replace this gasket.

I'll like to ask you guys who was in there to give me advices on what I'll need for this repair, aka what parts and special tools if needed. And what's good to upgrade while I'm in there.

I'm thinking the following I'll need/want while I'm in there.

Performance camshaft
24v oil pump (it's better, right?)
Front engine gaskets & seals (front main, gear case to block gasket at least)
Valve cover gaskets
Oil & filter change
Coolant
Thermostat (it have overcooling problem anyhow)
Special washers for the fuel system
Valve springs upgrade too? Can the valve seal be replaced also with the head still on?

I'll like to try to have this started on this coming Saturday morning and completed by Sunday evening for going to work on Monday. So that's why I'll love your advice and wisdom to make sure I have everything I'll need for the repair before I take it apart to million of pieces and know I'll still be able to put it back together and drive to work on Monday. I'm willing to get some extra parts for just in case and return later if not used.

Thanks
 
Assembly lube to install the cam with is always nice.
Locktite for the case to block bolts.
Some sort of KDP tab if it doesn't have one already.
Tappet cover gasket while you have the pump off.

Only somewhat special tool you will need is a torque wrench and a timing kit.
 
Valve seals can be replaced with head on.

Get you some wooden dowels to hold up the lifters in order to remove the cam.
 
I just did this to mine. Left the pump bolted to the support bracket and it worked fine. You can do as much as you'd like but the job really isn't that bad. Lots of black "right stuff" to seal at the pan. Loctite the bolts. Tab kdp. The rest is just if you want to upgrade anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If your replacing the tappet cover gasket, just take the cover off and use clothes pins to hold the tappets up, I personally like it better than the wooden dowel method, but it's only worth it if you're replacing that gasket anyway I guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Make sure it isn't the tappet cover first, those things get very brittle. Could be at the front where it.s close to the case. No need to put a 24v oil pump in it.
 
zfaylor said:
Assembly lube to install the cam with is always nice.
Locktite for the case to block bolts.
Some sort of KDP tab if it doesn't have one already.
Tappet cover gasket while you have the pump off.

Only somewhat special tool you will need is a torque wrench and a timing kit.
Click to expand...

If I put a different cam in, does that means I need to get new tappets?

It's already tabbed so I'm good there.

I'm thinking about to use red locktite and use Wedge Lock Washers on all of the case-to-block bolts to stop them from get loose after torqued to spec. Go to this link to the washer I'm talking about.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=x18h99

91812a429p1-b01l.png


Do anyone recall what size the bolts are? They looks like 8mm?

I'll have the timing taken care of.

JL Builders said:
Valve seals can be replaced with head on.

Get you some wooden dowels to hold up the lifters in order to remove the cam.
Click to expand...

I don't recall there's any good pic or thread to show how this method works. Can you please give me a pointer on this?

kole32 said:
If your replacing the tappet cover gasket, just take the cover off and use clothes pins to hold the tappets up, I personally like it better than the wooden dowel method, but it's only worth it if you're replacing that gasket anyway I guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I already replaced the tappet cover gasket, and I checked and it's not leaking from there, and it's really obvious on where the oil is leaking from, which is between the block and the case. I clean it all off, start the engine then I can see a steady, running oil from where the case & block meets, right below the vacuum pump area. I made sure it's not coming down from somewhere above.

I'll do the tappet cover gasket again if I need to, even though I did it 5 months ago.
 
If you're replacing the cam, you need to do the tappets, which makes the job much more difficult.

Mark.
 
You will need to cut a pvc pipe in half long ways and get a good magnet and some string or a cork and some string to do new tappets. It is described in a few threads on the net and in the cummins manual they describe it in detail as well. I can try to round up the directions on quickserve and email them to you tonight if you decide to do new tappets.
 
The truck is scheduled to be fixed this Saturday, Oct 10. :rockwoot:

I have a local friend with a shop where I'll drive in and we'll work on it and hopefully everything go well, and drive out at end of the day on Saturday, if not Sunday.

I have a bunch of parts on the way, unfortunately not really any of them will give my truck more oomph :ft: :doh:

Although I'll be VERY HAPPY to have a healthy running truck again, it has been too long. Alot of oil leaks and it have starting problem and the smoking/hazing of white/blue on accelerating, otherwise it runs good anyhow.

I have the following parts on hand already;
- Motor oil
- Oil filter
- Coolant
- Re-cored/Refurnished/upgraded intercooler (stock intercooler re-cored with extruded tubes)
- Stronger/better intercooler boots
- Valve cover gaskets

I have the following parts on the way;
Regional International in Henrietta, NY (Cummins parts)
- Gear case to block gasket
- Front main seal
- 2 O-rings, retaining ring for the timing pin on back of the gear case
- ALL 10 sealing washers for the fuel system, 4 on the injection pump, 6 on the fuel filter head (drop in style fuel filter) (This was a pain on looking up all of them and make sure we have all of them and correct part#s)
- Molded fuel hose (L shaped) for the strainer to the lift pump's inlet
- 2 Lift pump gaskets
- Fuel filter
- Vacuum pump to gear case gasket
- Thermostat w/ O-rings

Monroe Tractor in Henrietta, NY (CaseIH parts) (The best part that Regional International and Monroe Tractor is right by each other!)
- Dual valve cover and all of it's guts (cheapest than what I can find online by far)

Parts I still need to order/get;
- New radiator (optional, but preferred to be replaced while I'm in there) (front end damage from a deer) :nail:
- Grill (optional)
- Headlight assemblies (optional)
- Bumper (optional)
- Passenger side front wheel well liner (optional)

Optional - they need to be replaced but can wait.
 
Sounds like you still have the preheater on the fuel system. While you have the fuel pump off... Maybe you want to eliminate the fuel heater. take your time and cut that thing off the spacer, then reuse the space for the fuel pump
 
tornado112 said:
Sounds like you still have the preheater on the fuel system. While you have the fuel pump off... Maybe you want to eliminate the fuel heater. take your time and cut that thing off the spacer, then reuse the space for the fuel pump
Click to expand...

It's already deleted. FYI there's no cutting needed to do the fuel heater delete. You did the hard way?

You mean to delete the fuel heater/strainer entirely?

I'm thinking either too advanced/retarded timing or small fuel leak. My truck usually don't have THAT long cranking. In the morning for example, the truck take longer than normal cranking and misses for maybe the first 5 seconds with white smoke then it starts to clear up but it don't do that if it's really hot outside, sitting in the sun so I kinda think the timing may be the blame

Either way, the timing and fuel system will be taken care of when I do the oil leak repair.
 
You posted strainer to lift pump. Mine is gone... tank to pump. Do what you want but IMO that looks like chit hanging there.
 
tornado112 said:
You posted strainer to lift pump. Mine is gone... tank to pump. Do what you want but IMO that looks like chit hanging there.
Click to expand...

How my engine looks is least of my concern, if at all :hehe:

I'm a function-over-form kind of guy :shake:

The closest "form" I have on my truck is the 3rd gen 17" chrome aluminum wheels but I have a reason behind the 17" wheels was to have the room for the bigger brakes and to get rid of the ugly, boring steel chrome 2nd gen 16" wheels. I couldn't find any aftermarket wheels that I like and have high weight rating, many of them will be borderline to be overloaded or will be overloaded empty. *bdh*
 
You can do the entire job without breaking into the LP side of the fuel system. Unbolt the lift pump and pull it out a way. Leave the IP on the support bracket. Case comes off and its easy peasy. Unless you need to remove the tappet cover, this will be saving you a fair bit of time.

Make sure you're careful with removing the case from the oil pan to prevent tearing the gasket. Might want to look at getting a speedi-sleeve for the front seal.

If you're tossing in the old cam, I like STP to coat the cam in for reassembly.
 
Tate said:
You can do the entire job without breaking into the LP side of the fuel system. Unbolt the lift pump and pull it out a way. Leave the IP on the support bracket. Case comes off and its easy peasy. Unless you need to remove the tappet cover, this will be saving you a fair bit of time.

Make sure you're careful with removing the case from the oil pan to prevent tearing the gasket. Might want to look at getting a speedi-sleeve for the front seal.

If you're tossing in the old cam, I like STP to coat the cam in for reassembly.
Click to expand...

I want to breaking into the LP side of the fuel system, it's more of a preventive maintenance to eliminate and prevent any possible air leaks.

The front seal isn't leaking and it's not my first time replacing the front main seal. There's tons of room in the cover to set the new seal forward/backward where needed to get on the good part of the crankshaft if needed.

Thank for the head up on the oil pan gasket thing and the STP suggestion. I'll reuse the original camshaft.

One thing though, I am not sure on what to use on all gaskets. I really won't want to do this again. I was thinking to use grey RTV for the case to block/pan gaskets to ensure they seals and stay sealed and will not get "pushed out" or "blown out" again.
22074.jpg

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

I usually put thin coat of RTV on both sides of gaskets but my friend suggests this instead.

80062.jpg

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail
 
TrailTamer said:
I want to breaking into the LP side of the fuel system, it's more of a preventive maintenance to eliminate and prevent any possible air leaks.

The front seal isn't leaking and it's not my first time replacing the front main seal. There's tons of room in the cover to set the new seal forward/backward where needed to get on the good part of the crankshaft if needed.

Thank for the head up on the oil pan gasket thing and the STP suggestion. I'll reuse the original camshaft.

One thing though, I am not sure on what to use on all gaskets. I really won't want to do this again. I was thinking to use grey RTV for the case to block/pan gaskets to ensure they seals and stay sealed and will not get "pushed out" or "blown out" again.
22074.jpg

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

I usually put thin coat of RTV on both sides of gaskets but my friend suggests this instead.

80062.jpg

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail
Click to expand...

As mentioned earlier by Matthews8Pt use "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex. It's by far the best all around gasket maker in the whole wide world :hehe:

http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff
 
I just use a thin coat of ultra grey RTV on both sides and I've never had a problem.

About those washers you mentioned earlier, I probably wouldn't bother. Especially if you are loctiting them in. I haven't had any issues with bolts backing out when tightened properly, and that's without using any locking compound. If you have those washers, it may cause interference issues between the cam gear and the bolt heads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top