Muddin_dude06
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I am getting pretty close to reassembling my engine now, for the most part I’m just waiting on my cylinder head to get finished up.
I used the Isky tool on their rental program to cut O-ring grooves in my cylinder block, I set them all at .029”. I have ARP 625’s to use and I have read of people using both .041 SS annealed safety wire and also .041” SS hardened spring wire. I have both on hand, which one is better suited?
When you guys have bought brand new pistons do you measure anything other than the skirt diameter for checking piston to bore clearance? Or do y’all measure them in several places to make sure they are not distorted? Several people have told me they just measure the skirt and then install them, but I’m a little Leary of that just because of my luck. And when my block was bored originally 7 years ago one of my 6 pistons was distorted according to the machine shop and I had to replace it.
When installing the paper type gasket behind the timing case and rear main seal plate do you guys have better luck with putting a light smear of rtv on both sides of the gasket, a light coat of gasket dressing or just the gasket by itself? Or just rtv by itself?
I’m only wanting 400-450hp max, I’m going to start off with a S300G and go from there if I need better egt control.
I appreciate input, I’d like to get this thing back on the road for my farm rig and am flat tired of leaks and tired of working on it.
I used the Isky tool on their rental program to cut O-ring grooves in my cylinder block, I set them all at .029”. I have ARP 625’s to use and I have read of people using both .041 SS annealed safety wire and also .041” SS hardened spring wire. I have both on hand, which one is better suited?
When you guys have bought brand new pistons do you measure anything other than the skirt diameter for checking piston to bore clearance? Or do y’all measure them in several places to make sure they are not distorted? Several people have told me they just measure the skirt and then install them, but I’m a little Leary of that just because of my luck. And when my block was bored originally 7 years ago one of my 6 pistons was distorted according to the machine shop and I had to replace it.
When installing the paper type gasket behind the timing case and rear main seal plate do you guys have better luck with putting a light smear of rtv on both sides of the gasket, a light coat of gasket dressing or just the gasket by itself? Or just rtv by itself?
I’m only wanting 400-450hp max, I’m going to start off with a S300G and go from there if I need better egt control.
I appreciate input, I’d like to get this thing back on the road for my farm rig and am flat tired of leaks and tired of working on it.