Gov Spring Install- Need Help Truck Wont Start

CumminNotRunnin

CumminNotRunnin

Internet Mechanic
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May 7, 2007
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First off I would like to thank anyone in advance for insight into this subject. I have exhausted a lot of time trying to figure it out. Please let me know if there is something I am missing.

Truck is a 2005 F-350 with a 12v Cummins in it. It is a 160Hp CPL 1968 CA Emissions Pump.

Customer came to shop wanted us to install 4k Gov springs and #8 fuel.

Time line of events-

Gov springs came off with 3 clicks and 5.5 revolutions reverse. Installed new springs. Installed 5.5 revolutions back in and 3 clicks.

Installed #8 fuel plate. Put injection lines back on primed system.

****Truck started right up and idled perfect right at 900-950Rpm. ***

Let truck idle for a min or two and gave truck a little throttle in park.

Truck began breaking up at like 1400-1500 rpm a little and cleared back up. (similar to an air bound injection line)

Let my foot off the throttle, truck dropped back to idle no problem and stayed idling. (900-950rpm)

Brought the RPM back up this time slower got to about 2600-2800rpm and it began breaking up again real bad. This time I let off the throttle (quickly)and the truck went right to zero RPM and shuts off.

Now I cant get its run at all: Not even sputter or try to start.

-Heavy white fuel smoke out exhaust (Like heavy fog white)
-Good supply pressure from fass
-Injectors when cracked have a good 10-14 inches of squirt coming from them
-Rechecked timing both TDC Pinning, Pump Pinning method as well as Dial indicator with drop valve method. Timing is dead on at 16.5 degrees,
-Opened AFC, the shut off arm in not stuck and is allowing the rack the travel.
-The fulcrum is rising when cranking and moves accordingly with throttle travel
-Intake horn removed to eliminate possiblity of air not making it through intercooler. No rags or anything in intake shelf.
-Truck will Ether ignite. (test to make sure air was going through Intake shelf
-Manual Cable shut down cable for shutdown as well.


I think this is most the information I can give or have obtained.

Is it possible the springs for this CPL are actually causing the truck to not run?
But why would it start then stop running?

Would Gov springs cause the truck to miss and skip the way it carried on?

Like stated I made sure the timing is still on because it certainly seemed like the timing slipped.

My next step tomorrow is to swap in the old springs and try again.

Thanks
Jake :bang
 
Last edited:
Springs shouldn't make it not run. I used to have a 1968 CPL 160 pump and I had DDP 4Ks in it and ran really nice, then I sold it to WhiteKnight and P Pumped his 98 24v with it. He then installed CDS 5Ks in it and it ran really good. Had a low idle but never died. Obviously you made sure the cable is pulling the shutoff arm all the way up when running right?
 
stubz616 said:
Springs shouldn't make it not run. I used to have a 1968 CPL 160 pump and I had DDP 4Ks in it and ran really nice, then I sold it to WhiteKnight and P Pumped his 98 24v with it. He then installed CDS 5Ks in it and it ran really good. Had a low idle but never died. Obviously you made sure the cable is pulling the shutoff arm all the way up when running right?
Click to expand...

Yes removed the cabled and literally have it zip tied in the on position. Opened AFC, removed plated and physically looked in pump to verify it was not holding pump off.
 
I've installed two sets of Pacbrake 4Ks and they always didn't run quite right. Also liked to be set right. I believe the spring heights are wrong IIRC. You can get ahold of Seth at Farrell Diesel service and he could point you in the right direction.
 
stubz616 said:
I've installed two sets of Pacbrake 4Ks and they always didn't run quite right. Also liked to be set right. I believe the spring heights are wrong IIRC. You can get ahold of Seth at Farrell Diesel service and he could point you in the right direction.
Click to expand...
But they ran? See I can even get it to run now... Also when AFC was off rotated engine to make sure they were still together and they were.
 
Maybe 3rd time is a charm. Should I check before or after I put the stock gov springs back in.
 
I would check timing again before changing springs. And yes, both sets of pax brake springs ran for me
 
Always installed pacbrake kits using a dial indicator and measuring stud protrusion through the nut. Never had an issue. However, quite a few do have trouble with pacbrake kits idling. Definitely check timing seeing as how there is a ton of white smoke you say.
 
Seth mentioned machining some off the seat in a previous thread. Pakbrake kit I believe.
 
My pacbrake springs wouldn't idle in gear. Sent to Seth and voila! Now it has a strong idle. He has to machine the seats.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I bet I know what happened. On the shaft that comes out that you take the bracket off of (the shaft just to the left of the Gov Spring Port), there is a woodruff key orienting the bracket. The woodruff key falls out sometimes and then you can put the bracket on and move it up, but it doesn't move that valve enough to give you rack travel/fuel.
Make sure even if you don't have your woodruff key anymore, that the bracket it lined up where it should be (which can be a ***** without the key).

One more thing, the gov springs will increase idle, and you'll back off the idle screw to get idle lower, which will make for a weak idle. You can loosed the gov springs a little to get a strong idle back but lose some top end fuel. This is also why Seth machines the lower pedestal (from my understanding), so that you can keep your top end fuel but have a strong idle still.


Good luck!
 
I have some woodruff keys specifically for that shaft from Cummins if you need.
 
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