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stothew

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Oct 23, 2009
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So ive got my 4k gsk springs in and having a little issue. please if anyone can help me out here, or point me in the right direction. i searched and couldnt come up with any definitive answers.

first set them up so they dont hang the idle up at all but as soon as i pull it into gear it throttles way down and drops 500 rpm regardless of where i have the idle set.

so i added a click to either side...put in gear and less drop in idle. thought great. well give it a blip of throttle and then the idle wants jump up to about 1200 rpm. but put any load and it will come back down to 800 and stay there as long as i dont blip it in park or neutral.

added yet another click and its smoother and idle drop in gear is even less, but same hanging up in idle when hit the throttle out of gear.

it keeps running better that direction. so the difference in one click gives me drive-ability issues one way or the other.

would adding a shim to the idle spring help? Thanks in advance
 
Back the springs off a few clicks and then raise your idle with the idle stop screw if it needs it. That should fix the problem.
 
That's the thing, when I loosen the springs to where the idle won't hang it drops way too much when I put it in gear. At least 500 rpm regardless of where the idle is set.
 
I had a similar issue with my PacBrake 4k springs. I ended up pulling out the nut on top and the retainer and put the shims back in.
 
thats exactly what these are, pacbrake springs. what shims did you put in and how many?
 
I assume there were some large shims in there under the largest spring when you pulled out the old governor springs. The largest spring and shims are for idle. If you removed these largest shims, put them back in.

I'll bet your problems will disappear with the idle shims back in place.
 
Also check that both springs are clicked to the same preload, my clicks were very vague so I ended up using some calipers to check that they were the same.
 
I always use calipers. I dont know how anyone get them right listening for clicks. Id say that if you did remove some shims from the idle spring that once you put those back in and reset the springs that will fix your problems.
 
thanks for the responses everyone. yea, i took the shims out per the instructions. will put a shim back under each idle spring and try it out.
 
stothew said:
thanks for the responses everyone. yea, i took the shims out per the instructions. will put a shim back under each idle spring and try it out.
Click to expand...

I believe the instructions state to remove the inner springs, seat(s), and shims. They do not instruct you to remove the large outer spring or it's shims.
 
Cummins Driver said:
I always use calipers. I dont know how anyone get them right listening for clicks. Id say that if you did remove some shims from the idle spring that once you put those back in and reset the springs that will fix your problems.
Click to expand...

You will feel the clicks. Hardest one to feel is the initial click. I always use my thumb nail to turn the retainer when initially setting them, then use my fancy slotted screw driver or needle nose pliers to turn them further.
 
I dont use calipers or clicks i go off of the tension on the retainer and how hard it is to push in with a screw driver and set both side as close to the same as possible. I acctually just put a set of 4k pacbrake springs in a pump tonight that a customer brought me to install. They installed pretty easy. Had alot of surface rust on them but i cleaned them and installed with no idle issues
 
Last edited:
@Tate: I have put more than a few sets in, including 5k's. You are correct, you can feel the clicks, but i feel it is much easier to just use a set of calipers to get each side equal and matched with the old set. No counting clicks, just a quick measurement and you sre done.
 
Depending on the differences in the springs/ seat you cant always go by the amout of thread/bolt sticking out it all falls back to pressure on the retainer
 
problem solved, thanks everyone! it was the lack of idle spring shims causing my erratic problems.
 
highjack!!!

I have been having a similar yet different issue. I had a bad lope in gear at idle and had to install 2 shims under the pacbrake springs. Most of the lope went away, it still lopes a bit when before it warms up, and now that the weather is just starting to get cooler.

But I have a secondary issue as well. I went and added two clicks to the GSK to try and cure the final slight lope, it did nothing. So I decided to get around to lowering the idle from 1000+ where it has been for awhile.

The problem is if the idle is on or below the 1k mark it will die in gear (auto). If the idle is just above the 1k mark, it comes down to 800ish in gear, with a slight, occasional lope. I can get it to idle in neutral down to 800 or so, and it's really smooth and sounds great, nice and quiet, but once it goes into gear it dies immediately.

Any opinions???
 
I was looking at the shims I pulled out of mine from my GSK install. The wider shims are for the seats but they also shim the idle spring. The instructions say to pull the shims but not the idle spring...how can you get those shims out without pulling the idle spring? If that is the case then all the shims should stay but the seat would be shimmed then? On mine I had one seat/idle shim on each side then on one side there was a thin idle shim as well.
 
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