Guys using adjustable pump gear!

H

Hillrod660

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Jan 11, 2016
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OK I've searched and searched and I'm not sure on this adjustable timing gear, so I'm just gonna make a post, I have a 01 that I p-pumped that I'm putting back together so I have the timing cover off and I'm standing in front of the truck looking at the pump I turn it (clockwise) to advance the timing? Also so I have pin timed my pump to 13.5°, so with adjustable gear that gives you 1.5° every little bolt hole so to be at 19.5° would jump down 4 bolt holes? I feel like that is a lot of rotation, I could be wrong. I just remembered a guy saying you don't have to go much to get like 18 or 19. Anyone have any first hand experience using one of these adjustable timing gears? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for posting about something that I'm sure has been beat to death but I just wanted to make sure so I don't mess anything up.
 
I made a chart with the actual plunger lift in each hole of the adjustable gear. Every hole is not an even amount. From one hole to the next may be .5* and then the next hole will jump 2.5*. There is also slop in the small hole that will change the timing +/- 1* depending on which direction you load the small bolt in its hole.

What I am saying is I would take the time to check timing in every hole you will use and write it all down. Then you will always know exactly where you are at.
 
I have a timing dial indicator but I'm not entirely sure how to read the gauge, it's not a vary good gauge. I believe I got the kit from cpp.
 
That's not as accurate as starting at a known timing such as pin timing and going 2 degrees from there. Checking it with a light is probably most accurate. The cam profile will change the reading you get when using a plunger lift method.
Also in reality does it matter for max power? Adjust to max power and call it good. As long as you know what hole your in, your good
 
I've always found the most accurate way to set timing is to pin the pump at the whatever the known pin timing value is say 14* for a stock pump or 0* for a hotrod built pump. Loosen the adjustable pump gear bolts/remove the smallest bolt. Then retard the motor 10* turn the engine counter clockwise 10* from TDC, then bolt the adjustable gear back together. On the stock pump that would be 24*, on a hotrod pump that would be 10* obviously you'll want more than 10* on any setup but that's just an example. You can use a timing gear affixed to the dampener, you can use timing tape stuck to the dampener, you can count teeth on the flexplate/flywheel or you can use measurements on the dampener.

At the end of the day, timing isn't an exact science on every engine, so if it's not a max effort engine, don't sweat the difference between 20* and 21.25*. If you're on the ragged edge and you know it comes apart at 38*, then it's more critical when setting it to 37* that you're accurate and you remove variables like gear lash in your timing process.
 
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rockjeep73 said:
I made a chart with the actual plunger lift in each hole of the adjustable gear. Every hole is not an even amount. From one hole to the next may be .5* and then the next hole will jump 2.5*. There is also slop in the small hole that will change the timing +/- 1* depending on which direction you load the small bolt in its hole.

What I am saying is I would take the time to check timing in every hole you will use and write it all down. Then you will always know exactly where you are at.
Click to expand...

If there is slop in the hole, then you'd have to write down the range you're gonna be in for each hole, as its not going to be an exact figure. Tapered pins would be good if you needed that accurate, but not many people do.

To advance your timing, turn the pump CW, or the engine CCW.
 
Best thing to do is get a timing wheel, find TDC and label your damper.

Then pull #1 DV, look down the barrel and rotate the pump until the spill-port is just barely covered (start of injection).

Now loosen pump gear, rotate the engine to the desired timing, tighten gear. While the gear is loose, you can also rotate the engine to different timing point and label the gear.

Once you get through the first time and have everything labeled, timing is a breeze after that. I haven't messed with a timing pin, dial indicators and etc while setting timing for years.
 
Tate said:
If there is slop in the hole, then you'd have to write down the range you're gonna be in for each hole, as its not going to be an exact figure. Tapered pins would be good if you needed that accurate, but not many people do.

To advance your timing, turn the pump CW, or the engine CCW.
Click to expand...

That is correct. I have two timing numbers for each hole location
 
This is how I charted mine for ease of tuning in the future. You'll find moroso degree wheels at summit Etc.

D18FAB98-4365-40EF-9D05-53A1C04A8BAC_zpskjpecoxv.jpg
 
AHall said:
This is how I charted mine for ease of tuning in the future. You'll find moroso degree wheels at summit Etc.

D18FAB98-4365-40EF-9D05-53A1C04A8BAC_zpskjpecoxv.jpg
Click to expand...

That's the same wheel I use. I agree on making a chart of some sort. I spill port using the degree wheel and make a chart for the corresponding placement on the pump gear but I actually have the style pump gear with the pucks instead of small holes for adjustment.
 
YoungDiesel27 said:
That's the same wheel I use. I agree on making a chart of some sort. I spill port using the degree wheel and make a chart for the corresponding placement on the pump gear but I actually have the style pump gear with the pucks instead of small holes for adjustment.
Click to expand...

Pucks? Link?
 
Those gears are nice! Same one I use. Have a new Schied gear I need to get rid of.
 
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