head gasket.....

jedeka said:
Need to throw away those 60# springs and get something better.
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This... My first plan was 60# springs until I did a whole bunch of reading and found people floating valves at 32-3600. I've got Haisley 150# in mine now.
 
GorillaDave said:
This... My first plan was 60# springs until I did a whole bunch of reading and found people floating valves at 32-3600. I've got Haisley 150# in mine now.
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Same as above, I had read about Mike having problems (his quote below) with them and a lot of others, than pulled my own just to see the same problem as many were having. If you are going to do something like using 5k gov springs and have luck like I do you might as well build it to be 100% right but that is just my $.02.

Originally Posted by madmikeismad
My stock ones were starting to pull through after a year with 60# springs, to the point where they were stuck and had to be hit harder than usual to knock them out. I changed them out of fear when I went to heavier springs.
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Valves and cam yes. Retainers and locks no. You need the titanium set and 10* locks to keep them from pulling through. Might want to get with TMONEY about some sturdier pushrods as well
 
captain_stabbin said:
im looking for some help as to why i would be blowing headgasket on the water side instead of the compression side. hasn't done it again since i lowered timing back to 19 from 26.

this is on a 12v cummins. i've heard of the water bypass, but isnt it for the freeze plug blowing out at high rpms?
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You actually are blowing the compression side first. When you blow a head gasket, you don't usually blow out the compression ring. What usually happens is.... there is some blow-by getting by the compression ring (doesn't take much), and that hot blow-by, burns out the softer sealing material at the water or oil passages. And that's where you get the leak. If you look real hard at the compression ring, you can see the evidence of blow-by.

Time for studs and O-rings if you want to push it hard!
 
Drothgeb said:
You actually are blowing the compression side first. When you blow a head gasket, you don't usually blow out the compression ring. What usually happens is.... there is some blow-by getting by the compression ring (doesn't take much), and that hot blow-by, burns out the softer sealing material at the water or oil passages. And that's where you get the leak. If you look real hard at the compression ring, you can see the evidence of blow-by.

Time for studs and O-rings if you want to push it hard!
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truck has studs in it, guess if it blows again i'll get the head o-ringed!
 
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