Head job

lee01dg

lee01dg

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Joined
Jan 2, 2008
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379
NO not what you think. Deal is I have two heads for my truck one that is on it and one that I have ported. I want to do a valve job and I need to know what degree to cut the valves. Also I've read it's better to use all exhaust valves in the head instead of int. and exh. This will be primarily a street truck. Any help is appreciated. I'm gonna try to get some pics up when the camera is charged. Thanks,Lee
 
If you use the exhaust valves on the intake side you'll want to install the correct seat for the harder exhaust valves. Some do some don't.

intakes seats are 30*
exhaust seats are 45*
 
24v I assume?

Exhaust valves all the way around isn't a bad idea, but if it is going in a street truck, I'm not sure that I would bother. $.02

Ditto on what Jeff said.
 
Yeah 24v, so it's better to just use correct valves and cut int. 30* and exh. 45* What's the difference between int. and exh. valves? Thanks.
 
The material they are made from and the seat angle.
 
We have a local guy here that swears by a 5 angle valve job and has the track record to prove his work, he cuts three angles on the valve seat and two angles on the valve face, plus he sets all the valves at the proper depth in the head. He also insists that proper valve spring seat pressure is important and shims the springs accordingly. I don't bother asking him what those angles are or how he cuts them or what kind of mustard he eats on his pizza because he's forgot more about valves than I'll probably ever know.

To the OP, I would send my work to someone that knows what they are doing.
 
Last edited:
LReiff said:
We have a local guy here that swears by a 5 angle valve job and has the track record to prove his work, he cuts three angles on the valve seat and two angles on the valve face, plus he sets all the valves at the proper depth in the head. He also insists that proper valve spring seat pressure is important and shims the springs accordingly. I don't bother asking him what those angles are or how he cuts them or what kind of mustard he eats on his pizza because he's forgot more about valves than I'll probably ever know.

To the OP, I would send my work to someone that knows what they are doing.
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I would always want to know if a guy is putting mustard on a pizza. That's just weird.
 
lee01dg said:
Yeah 24v, so it's better to just use correct valves and cut int. 30* and exh. 45* What's the difference between int. and exh. valves? Thanks.
Click to expand...

As Jeff said the material is the main difference other than the seat angle. If it is a street truck where EGTs are not that outrageous, I don't see it being worth it, but I'm sure everyone has their own opinions. On a competition truck, exhaust valves all around would be the minimum I would run. $.02
 
Thanks, I'll probably just run stock valves with the angles mentioned. I am in no hurry so I'm gonna keep listening to opinions. The guys doing the work are very good machinist and build a lot of competition gas motors, and I'm sure they're capable of the work I am wanting done. Plus there only a few miles up the road. If I had deeper pockets I would use a big name company but the shipping alone would cost more than what I am paying these guys. Again I'm not trying to set a record or anything just wanting around 700 on fuel and I believe a good head working will aid in getting me there.The porting I done is nearly finished just have to clean it up a little more and order some springs then I 'll take it to them for the valve and seat grinding. I may possibly grow some balls this summer and run it a few times.
 
30* intakes are fine for the low-lift OEM grinds most folks run; for L/D ratios beyond 25% 45* makes more sense.
Running 24 unmolested exhaust valves is 2 steps forward & 1 back.
 
Well suppose a man was thinking of dropping in a Hamilton cam later on. Maybe the new 188 or something similar a drop in none the less. What would be the best route then? If I did go with all exhaust valves then what's the price for the correct seats?
 
I take it your still having Shaw and Sons in Glasgow doing the work. They deal with Ferrea for most of there cylinder head valves. If you really wanted to, they could probably just get some valve blanks from them and blank seats and they can cut and grind what ever valve and seat angles they think is best. I've sat down and talked with Jeremy a few times and he has really done his homework on cylinder head setups and machining. He put alot of his knowledge and idea's into Johnathan Corbins CR truck and it is a screamer to say the least. Only thing about it though is they have so many of those gasser pulling truck engines to build rightnow that it will probably be a good while before they are done.
 
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