Head studs

A

aircop

New member
Joined
Apr 30, 2007
Messages
491
Guys I am going to be installing head studs on my 24 valve motor are there any mods I need to do any clearence problems. Any tips you can give me would be appreciated. Do I need to tap all the holes, if so what size tap do i need and how long. Going to be changing them one at a time, no new head gasket. How many re-torques do I need to do. Thanks in advance.
 
Tapping the holes won't hurt, but it's not an absolute requirement on the 24V like it is on the 12V. I think the tap is a 12X 1.25, check with whoever you buy the studs from to be sure. After you get the tap, go by the local parts house and pick up an inexpensive 12pt 1/4 drive socket that fits the square drive part of the tap and either braze, weld or epoxy said socket to the tap. When you go to tapping holes out, use some ARP lube on the tap to pick up the crud the tap works loose, that or leave it dry and vac the bolt holes out. Grease will work also on the tap, but since you will be using the thread lube anyway that's my choice.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for retorques, but it should be at least three on a cold engine.

Hope this helps, and for those that have done this before, please point out any errors I made.
 
its a 12x1.75

ARP calls for 3 re-torques. and yes, the lube is your friend!
 
Hamilton Diesel did my Head work and I went by his torque reccomendations. It seems everyone has their own way of doing it but I went 30-60-90-120lbs, Then take it easy for about 500miles and then retorque to 135lbs. And then re-adjust the valves.
 
re-torque

If you're not seating o-rings on a "new" gasket , are that many re-torques needed for just replacing them one at a time with the head on? Just askin'
 
Yes, a stud is not supposed to stretch, a headbolt is. That stretch factor is what keeps the bolt tight and gives it some leeway for gasket compression etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top