Headlight switch ?'s

SCHOOL BUS

SCHOOL BUS

DLRA T-O
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
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Backstory:
Since I bought the truck my headlights start to cut out after 45-50 minutes into a trip. Well the other night they won't come on at all but if I pull the brights Switch back they work if I hold the switch pulled towards me. I've had this happen on my 99 ctd and replacing the switch solved my problem.

My questions:

my 98 12v has a pull out long skinny knob for the lights with the dimmer built in. But everytime I search for a 98 switch it's the one that has the short knob and the wheel for the dimmer. Do I have a left over 97 switch or did the switches get changed for 98.5 models. Also, is it possible to put the newer switch in my truck? Plug and play or would I have to cut wires and schit.


Thanks in advance
 
98 12v had a different switch than the 98.5 24v's....but I don't know if it's the same as the older switches. I think not!

Chris
 
Replacing the switch is a pain in the azz.

I would have someone stand in front of the truck and see if both high and low beams come on when you pull the brights switch back, a lot of heat can be built up in the headlight.
 
there is a write-up somewhere that shows how to add a relay to keep them from going bad. I red that if you tow the trailer lights are wires in without a relay that overloads the switch and burns it out.
 
L6powered said:
I red that if you tow the trailer lights are wires in without a relay that overloads the switch and burns it out.
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It will, which is why Chrysler was kind enough to provide you the wiring and relay to add a tail/marker light circuit specifically for trailer lights.

The problem is that most people don't seem to know it exists.
 
mondtster said:
It will, which is why Chrysler was kind enough to provide you the wiring and relay to add a tail/marker light circuit specifically for trailer lights.

The problem is that most people don't seem to know it exists.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, wonder why mine was replaced with a new harness, relay included, under a recall when the truck was still fairly new.
 
WUnderwood said:
see if both high and low beams come on when you pull the brights switch back, a lot of heat can be built up in the headlight.
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Hellz-bellz. I wired mine that way! :D High = high + low + fog.

Back on track...sorry man, I ain't got no switches or I'd give you one.
 
i dont think they went to the knob and roller till '00.. my dads 98.5 has the one youre talking about, (pull out knob).. ive had to replace it for him twice now...
 
My 99 had a knob roller and didn't have an issue out of it for the 300k it was in the family but every 94-98 we've had has had issues
 
golfersmith said:
Hmmm, wonder why mine was replaced with a new harness, relay included, under a recall when the truck was still fairly new.
Click to expand...

You sure about that being a recall? I don't ever remember one for the trailer wiring. Got a link?

EDIT: I found the "recall." It wasn't a recall actually, just a campaign to update the owners manual with the correct information stating that you were not supposed to attach anything to the tail light circuit. There was also a recall on 3500s only that added a relay to the headlight switch wiring but it doesn't imply that the reasoning was the same behind this recall as the warning that was issued for keeping additional lighting circuits off of the switch. I'm guessing the 3500s got that because of the extra lighting found on them.

The only one I remember is the recall for adding a relay to the heater circuit under the dash.

Part of the problem with all the trailer wiring issues is that the majority of these trucks never came with a trailer tow package (at least 100% of the ones I've touched did not). You then get clowns like those at U-haul or the dealership that add their own wiring (which usually means tapping the tail light wiring rather than doing it right) and it all goes downhill from there. Then everything becomes "Chrysler's" problem because people are ignorant.
 
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Summit used to sell a harness with the relay. Basically all that your factory headlight wiring would do is bring in a relay in the kit.
 
SCHOOL BUS said:
Backstory:
Since I bought the truck my headlights start to cut out after 45-50 minutes into a trip. Well the other night they won't come on at all but if I pull the brights Switch back they work if I hold the switch pulled towards me. I've had this happen on my 99 ctd and replacing the switch solved my problem.

My questions:

my 98 12v has a pull out long skinny knob for the lights with the dimmer built in. But everytime I search for a 98 switch it's the one that has the short knob and the wheel for the dimmer. Do I have a left over 97 switch or did the switches get changed for 98.5 models. Also, is it possible to put the newer switch in my truck? Plug and play or would I have to cut wires and schit.


Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

My 98 would do that, and I just got a switch from an 01, cut the harness(which was fried anyway) and wired it up to the newer style switch.
 
The switch is the same from 94 to 98 autozone part number is sw1008, but look at your plug when you remove the dash bezel, and take the three screws out that hold the light switch in.

The wire in the middle look close for signs of it getting warm. And when you unplug the switch from the harness wiggle the wires to make sure the female connectors aren't lose. If they are go to the dealer and ask for the recall kit you will have to pay for it, but it will fix it from burning the wires.

If it looks all good just replace the switch. Unless you feel like taking the time to change the plug and ect at the time to do the update.

Oh ya helpful hint when you go to remove the switch. You will have to pull the knob out of the switch. There is a spring loaded tab sticking up on the back you have to push in to pull the knob out of the switch, don't push in on it untill after you first pull the knob all the way out first, then push in on tab and pull knob out. Then just use a philips screw driver and unscrew the grey nut that is inside the plastic switch face to remove the switch from mount.

When you mount new switch to put knob in new switch, just push knob all the way in and give it a hard push once in, or a love tap and you will hear it snap back into the switch fully.
 
SPEEDSHIFT do the wires from the old harness match the color of the wires from the 01 harness, or did you get a wiring diagram and figure it out.
 
My truck has a wiring nightmare from the switch. The previous owner used regular house switches for the headlights. I bought a pigtail from the dealer ship and it does matchup. One day I will tackle this but my instrument clust does not light up at night which drives me nuts.
 
L6powered said:
My truck has a wiring nightmare from the switch. The previous owner used regular house switches for the headlights. I bought a pigtail from the dealer ship and it does matchup. One day I will tackle this but my instrument clust does not light up at night which drives me nuts.
Click to expand...

:nopics:
 
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