Help Diagnose 2006 CR Issues

coon smile

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I've got an 06 CR truck that has cold starting issues. I have started it in weather anywhere between low 40's and mid 20's all with the same result. It has a grid heater delete, and the block heater is unplugged. It makes about 5-8 revolutions before it starts when cold. When warm it cranks 3 times pretty consistently and fires.

After the engine sits several hours and you fire it up, it will chug, idle rough and blow a good amount of white smoke. If you bring the engine up to about 1500 rpm, it will stumble and run a little rough for about 10 seconds. After that, the idle smooths out a little and smoke clears up.

I figured the injectors were wore out, and I swapped in a brand new set of Exergy 100% sac injectors. Calibration sheet showed that all were within 1.8%, which seemed a little higher that what I've seen from other sets.

The truck still has the same issues as described above. The only difference I noticed with the new injectors was that the low boost rattle got a lot louder with the Exergys, spool was a tad quicker, maybe a bit cleaner under boost, but there's a slight black haze at idle. It's got an EFI tune it from the previous owner, but it did not have the black idle haze with the 235 HP injectors that were in it before the swap.

I found a shop that has a Snap On Solus Ultra scan tool, and when we hooked it up to the truck, we ran the cylinder/injector contribution test and found that all were around 100% except for #6 which was at 89%.

So I swapped #5 and #6 injectors to rule out the possibility of a compression issue. After the swap, #1,3,4,6 were +/- 100% and #5 and #2 were 89%. So the 89% figure followed #6 injector, but I'm not sure why #2 now shows 89%. I have no idea what the scan tool uses to calculate that %, but now I'm not sure what I learned from this test, except that the low value followed one of the injectors and randomly popped up in another.

Couple other notes while using scan tool:

Scan tool reads 9000 psi rail pressure at ide, which I was told was high. I don't have a gauge in the cab. Maybe a rp sensor, dual cp3 controller or fca(s)?

With no load on it and rev'ed to 2500 rpm or so the scan tool would read 17-18,000 psi.

I've got the following codes - P0341, P0606, P0602

The tach on the dash shows around 500 rpm and the scan tool shows around 750 rpm at idle at the same time. Sometimes the tach on the dash reads between 650-750, and then it will randomly drop straight to 500. When it drops, you can't hear or feel a change in idle.

I put a new battery in it today, and it still cranks pretty slow and didn't change anything.

Any ideas?
 
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Performance / Rationality
P0602 Control Module Programming Error/NotProgrammed
P0606 Internal ECM Processor

I would try to have the truck flashed with a stock tune and see what happens. Your ECU may be toast.
 
I've got an 06 CR truck that has cold starting issues.

It has a grid heater delete, and the block heater is unplugged.

Any ideas?

I have two ideas and one question....why the hell did you delete all the starting parts?
 
Where he lives neither should be needed for quick smooth starts. I have zero issue in Ohio starting on several trucks without the GH. I agree with cumminspa75. Always start of a bone stock clean file when diagnosing weird issues.
 
Ya...it's only 16 degrees there now...no need for that crap. :hehe:

acttemp_600x405.jpg
 
Don't know if this will help or not but this is my experience. I tried a bully dog programmer a long time ago. My truck ran rough and smoked like yours anytime it was 60 or below. I bought a smarty and it wouldn't load because the bully dog didn't put it back to the stock file. I contacted smarty to get a recovery file and was able to load smarty. Now my truck starts fine at any temp. I still have a grid heater.
 
I have two ideas and one question....why the hell did you delete all the starting parts?

This made me lol, but I bought the truck that way. If it were my choice, they never would have been deleted. Like ComnRailPwr said, I've been living in Ohio and WV my whole life, and I've never had any of the issues I am describing, with or without the heaters.

It fired right up this morning at 26 deg, but still idled like chit and white smoked until I brought the rpms up to 1,500 rpm for about 10 seconds to smooth it out.
 
Where he lives neither should be needed for quick smooth starts. I have zero issue in Ohio starting on several trucks without the GH. I agree with cumminspa75. Always start of a bone stock clean file when diagnosing weird issues.

Don't know if this will help or not but this is my experience. I tried a bully dog programmer a long time ago. My truck ran rough and smoked like yours anytime it was 60 or below. I bought a smarty and it wouldn't load because the bully dog didn't put it back to the stock file. I contacted smarty to get a recovery file and was able to load smarty. Now my truck starts fine at any temp. I still have a grid heater.

Point taken. I will try to find someone to send me a stock file.
 
I hadn't seen ya on here in a while, thought I'd give you some grief. LOL

I would imagine you could find those items fairly cheap and reinstall....? I just can't for the life of me start my truck when the oil is thick as syrup and feel good about myself without keeping it warm at night.
 
i can send you a stock file if needed for EFI.

it sounds to me like you have a few problems.... its an 06 so you need a new dash/cluster (typical).

as stated above you need to be on a stock fine to ensure that timing and cranking parameters are normal. i am also wondering if you are having cp3/fca issues more than injector issues.

if you get a hold of a v2 i would use it to log injector balance rates to put up against the scan tool.
your lack of a grid is not your problem but since you are fighting problems i would highly recommend plugging in your block heater considering all the cold starts.

i am still a fan of exergy dont get me wrong, but i did have an issue with them when i went with larger sticks, but they made it right.

your RP should be 7k at idle and i would log your fca voltage with a v2 as well.

PM me if you want a stock file

-Marcus
 
oh and 0341 cam sensor will not be a problem. i had that code for years, when you have a 0341 the ecu defaults to the crank sensor as a backup.
 
i can send you a stock file if needed for EFI.

it sounds to me like you have a few problems.... its an 06 so you need a new dash/cluster (typical).

as stated above you need to be on a stock fine to ensure that timing and cranking parameters are normal. i am also wondering if you are having cp3/fca issues more than injector issues.

if you get a hold of a v2 i would use it to log injector balance rates to put up against the scan tool.
your lack of a grid is not your problem but since you are fighting problems i would highly recommend plugging in your block heater considering all the cold starts.

i am still a fan of exergy dont get me wrong, but i did have an issue with them when i went with larger sticks, but they made it right.

your RP should be 7k at idle and i would log your fca voltage with a v2 as well.

PM me if you want a stock file

-Marcus

oh and 0341 cam sensor will not be a problem. i had that code for years, when you have a 0341 the ecu defaults to the crank sensor as a backup.

Thank you for the advise and help. I bought a v2 today, and when it gets here, I'll check these things out.
 
Not really a surprise, but I hooked up the block heater and plugged it in last night. This morning, at 13 degrees, it fired right up. No rough idle and slight haze for a cold morning.
 
Also, I've noticed that after the injector swap, the truck lopes at idle when you put it in drive with a load on it. The lope at idle clears up after about 30 seconds of driving it.
 
I have not followed the thread but how large are the injectors?

My 70% and then 100% overs did this when the motor is cold and especially with the Smarty, it cleared up with EFI.
 
mine did it as well. you can tune it out on the main injection pulse w/ wfi
 
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