WUnderwood
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lets keep it civil folks, or take it to PM's
Homemade or Custom cut-off intake/port and polish job.
- Thread starter oldsmokey97
- Start date
kipo
King of swag
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Don't you know Lance everything is a BIG secret , ........oooooooohhhhhh........aaaaaaahhhhhhhhh..........and smoke and mirrors..... in the diesel world. ....
:hehe::hehe::hehe:
oldsmokey97
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I agree with many things like specifics on a drag racer or sledpuller but a ported cylinder head is just a head. You can only take out so much. This is why I love this site so much because people are trying to give actual info and advice to other people on what works and what doesnt.
btw... this is the most technical site on the net with the most intelligent people with good down to earth values that doesnt shine on other sites.
As you read on the top of every page (BRINGING THE BEST TOGETHER)
Lance
Joesixpack
Pull'n it.
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You don't need to cut like a mad man, you'll see were it needs it. Get your self a set of good carbides, I like the "flame" tip I call it, pretty universal, the exaust side will be HARD from heat treatment.
On a all out race head you might cut right into the guides, but IMO its not worth it.
Can't find my photo's of the intake cut off and the porting on that side.....:bang
oldsmokey97
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You don't need to cut like a mad man, you'll see were it needs it. Get your self a set of good carbides, I like the "flame" tip I call it, pretty universal, the exaust side will be HARD from heat treatment.
On a all out race head you might cut right into the guides, but IMO its not worth it.
Can't find my photo's of the intake cut off and the porting on that side.....:bang
Thank you.
This is the kind of stuff that i am talking about.
As far as the valve guides..... i know that cutting into the valve guides may be a problem because of the shorter length and the guides will most likely wear out faster due to less length but what exactly would it hurt besides what i just said.
By looking at the head.. the guides seem to be the worst problem as far as the internal port porting. Why dont we start doing like the HIGH horsepower gasser world and take the guides totally out and port the living crap out of it and THEN drive new guides in. I have seen many hellacious gasser heads that the valve guide is sticking WAY out of the cast in the head due to porting.
I will post pics this weekend of what i am talking about. I just dont have any pics of a BADAZZ aluminum cnc ported gasser head.
Lance
kipo
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I agree this is a great site with a lot of good guys on it. I was only directing my comment at very few individuals but they know who they are.
Back on track: I like the carbide bits that are more round and remember slower is better on carbide bits. Get some coarse cartridge rolls and you should be good to go.
Joe : those are very nice, hope you don't mind me copying I based my head off your pics. :rockwoot:
Back on track: I like the carbide bits that are more round and remember slower is better on carbide bits. Get some coarse cartridge rolls and you should be good to go.
Joe : those are very nice, hope you don't mind me copying I based my head off your pics. :rockwoot:
Joesixpack
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Kool, sent a few photos to a few between sites. X2 on the cartridge rolls, and wear a mask!!! Lots of fine steel that you don't need in your lungs.
And GOOD carbide....there is a lot of crap out there, got mine from a family biz at a trade show, think they were aircraft surplus, but they are tough, unless you chip them some how, they never wear out.
The stands are built out of some 2 1/2" angle iron and some 1 1/2" square tube scraps that I had laying around. I cut some slots in the angle to allow for different head bolt spacing. For the pivot bolts, I used some nylock nuts to help keep the bolts tight with the vibration. I just bolt the stands to the head and turn it upright and bolt the bottoms to a board. It's fairly basic, but it worked out well. My exhaust manifold is just a stock one. I will replace it when I build my new set of twins later this year. I will just stay with the T3 design. For sealing up the manifold, I am using a layered gasket material that is like an exhaust manifold gasket (MAXTORQ recommended this type of gasket for the application). I have some more picks that I will try and post up tomorrow. I just wish I had a better camera to get closeups like Joesixpack's picks.
kipo
King of swag
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also remember if you get the long madrels with large rolls to go VERY SLOW! I found out later that theyr'e not rated for high speed. You will actually bend them over in a 90 degree. I would of took pics but was too embarrassed and doubled over in pain when it took out my knee and jeans. :bang:doh:
oldsmokey97
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also remember if you get the long madrels with large rolls to go VERY SLOW! I found out later that theyr'e not rated for high speed. You will actually bend them over in a 90 degree. I would of took pics but was too embarrassed and doubled over in pain when it took out my knee and jeans. :bang:doh:
Thank all of yall for posting pics of yalls setups. THIS IS WHAT THIS SITE IS ALL ABOUT.
Keep em coming people.
But... as i said before... why dont we start doing like the gasser world and remove the valve guides and port the living $hit out of it and THEN put the valve guide in. I dont know how many of yall have seen this BUT there is HALF the meat in the bowl and then the only thing you see is a Valve guide by itself sticking out.
This would probably not work of the exhaust side due to the small side of the guide but it would TOTALLY benifit on the intake side.
Lance
Rollin Coal
Fabricator
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Here is a shot of the exhaust side before working it over:
And after:
Some of the manifold side before:
And after:
One very important thing to know about the exhaust side. On the manifold side where the flat spot on the bottom is. DO NOT! and I repeat DO NOT! port to match the gasket on the flat side. There isn't a whole bunch of material there between the water jacket and the port. I am sorry that my pictures are not that good. I just couldn't seem to get a good picture. I promise that everything is smoother than it looks........
HTH
Max
And after:
Some of the manifold side before:
And after:
One very important thing to know about the exhaust side. On the manifold side where the flat spot on the bottom is. DO NOT! and I repeat DO NOT! port to match the gasket on the flat side. There isn't a whole bunch of material there between the water jacket and the port. I am sorry that my pictures are not that good. I just couldn't seem to get a good picture. I promise that everything is smoother than it looks........
HTH
Max
Mike Holmen
the Diesel dude
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- Sep 19, 2008
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How much of the exhaust port divider you guys taking out? Of course you would have to go back in and smooth it out, but is there coolant in the divider or can you just keep on hacking? Nice job, you gonna put a mirror finish on the port or just leave if rough? Thanks guys, your feeding my diesel fire.
Keep the pics coming?:st:
Keep the pics coming?:st:
Mike Holmen
the Diesel dude
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XLR8R, I need five more just like that. Sweet buddy. What did you do on the intake side.
Mike Holmen
the Diesel dude
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Looking good buddy. What you gonna do for an intake manifold? I see that you drill/tapped a hole in the intake port? Whats that for? Looks like your a few steps ahead of me. I'm still warming up the cutting tools. You going with stock valves?