Hone job (pics included)

You guys are right. If the shop used a "de-glazer" to de-glaze the cylinders, then the torque plate wouldn't matter. If that's what the guy bought and paid for, the quality of the work looks acceptable, and is fine to run.

To me though, honing by a machine shop, implies a little more precision, and better equipment than that. And for that, while a torque plate is not required, it is better. But it is hard to find a shop that has one for a Cummins.
 
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Are you saying if a torque plate was used those low spots seen wouldn't be there?
 
Those spots would still be there without using a ring ridge reamer first. The keystone top ring is pretty rounded so that ridge should be fine but anytime I see a ridge that a hone will not get it goes to oversize.

Like Snedge said, as is should be fine.
 
Are you saying if a torque plate was used those low spots seen wouldn't be there?

No, I'm not saying that.

The results all depend on what the goal was to begin with. If you're just trying to do a basic level rebuild, and just wanted the glaze removed from the cylinder walls without resizing the cylinders, that's what you probably got. And it does look like a good job of it. A glaze breaker is used to restore the cross hatch to the cylinder walls. The main purpose of the cross hatch, is to hold oil to facilitate piston ring break-in. But, you don't want to get carried away with glaze breaker and cut too much. They're designed to follow contours, so it's real easy to cut too much in the wrong spot with one of them.

That's where a hone comes into play. Whether it's big Sunnen machine, or a rigid arm hone that goes into a drill. They are designed to cut round and parallel to specific dimensions. For instance... .006" is a typical piston to wall clearance on a Cummins. If you're building a street performance motor, you might want that to be .008". If it's a dedicated race or pulling motor, you'd probably want .010" or more. (I'm talking aluminum pistons here) In that case you'd take to the block to the machine shop and give them a dimension to hone too. Or, you'd give them your pistons and say I want "x" amount of clearance.

As to whether or not honing would take the low spots out, you'd have to mic the cylinders to see how much of a cut it would take. And a torque plate doesn't play much of a factor in the top of the cylinder. It's job is to distort the cylinder walls the same way that a torqued head would do. That allows you to hone the cylinders under load, and ensure that they are round and parallel when the engine is reassembled. Is it a requirement? Not really, the engine will run fine and last a long time without it. But, if you're running studs with higher than stock torque or, if you're really serious about your engine build, it's a really good idea.

Main thing is.... If you're doing a stockish rebuild, you're good to go. If you're building a higher hp or competition motor, I'd do some research on clearances and go from there. Maybe it's good enough, maybe it's not.
 
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