How do you stop a 47re pan gasket from leaking

madmikeismad

madmikeismad

So mad
I got the trans back from Brian about a month ago. About a week later, the OEM-reusable gasket started leaking, so I checked the bolts and they were all loose. I tightened them all up, using only one hand and a small ratchet so as not to over tighten. The leaking stopped for about a day. Check the bolts and they were loose again, so I tightened them again. This time it didn't stop leaking. So I ordered a new gasket (OEM-reusable) and pan. Threw them on, it didn't leak until halfway through the next day. Check the bolts, they're still tight, but I took them to 24ft/lbs with the torque wrench just for fun. Didn't help.

I will add that it only leaks when the trans is cool, so about 5-6 hrs after shutdown.

Any ideas before I just ultra-black this thing?
 
Napa. The Right Stuff black gasket maker in a can. Run an 1/8" bead on both sides of the gasket, and put a little on the bolt threads.

It sucks pulling it though lol
 
I honestly use the right stuff or copper spray on every gasket. As long ad your not gloping the stuff on there like some goober youll be fine.
 
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camarokiller said:
Napa. The Right Stuff black gasket maker in a can. Run an 1/8" bead on both sides of the gasket, and put a little on the bolt threads.

It sucks pulling it though lol
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I would normally use that, but I have tubes for days of ultra black right now after messing with vw pans lol.

I used right stuff on the fuel sump. I'm pretty sure it's just black concrete. If ultra black isn't atf resistant, then right stuff it is. I'd just really like to figure out why damn thing was fine for 5 years and 50 pan drops, and then overnight it just doesn't want to seal up anymore.
 
camarokiller said:
I honestly use the right stuff or copper spray an every gasket. As long ad your not gloping the stuff on there like some goober youll be fine.
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I have lots of copper spray too, I wonder if that would work on trans gasket? Worth a shot, I'll try it first tonight after work. A lot cleaner than rtv LOL
 
Tranny builder cleaned the bolt holes out and now there is no dirt holding the fluid in.
 
Yes, study!!

Is the gasket silicone? if so then spray copper MIGHT help. It is designed for use on hard, non-absorbent materials.

I would just glue it on with TRV for now. One and done I always say, I said that once.
 
SHughes said:
Yes, study!!

Is the gasket silicone? if so then spray copper MIGHT help. It is designed for use on hard, non-absorbent materials.

I would just glue it on with TRV for now. One and done I always say, I said that once.
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I absolutely don't give 2 phucks about air force history and who the first woman to tie her shoes standing up was. It's really hard for me to retain the PDG stuff.

It's the OEM style reusable gasket. Hard plastic with (I think) a metal layer. I loved the old gasket. I just can't understand why these new ones won't seal. I really want to make RTV a last resort. It seemed I was in the pan 3-4 times a year every year for something or other. And I don't think Brian warranties his work, so if something goes wrong, it's going to be my fat ass out there sweating and covered in trans oil trying to clean it up LOL

whitneyj said:
You need to use red loctite, I think the number is 272 on 1 thread.
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The bolts aren't actually loosening up now. It's just seeping through the gasket space.
 
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Focus (HARD) on the chapters relating to leadership, supervising people and the issues they may encounter.
 
Then I'd say you need to drop the pan, clean the bejesus out of the sealing surfaces, hi-tack spray both sealing surfaces and both sides of the gasket, locktite the bolts and give it the proper 3 stage torque cycle. The only time I've had one leak after that was either a wrapped pan or the dipstick tube seal was leaking and running around the pan gasket making it look like a pan leak. I had a flat forehead for a while after that one (beating my head against my desk)
 
SHughes said:
Focus (HARD) on the chapters relating to leadership, supervising people and the issues they may encounter.
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No crap, that was probably 30% of the last 2 tests lol. Maybe I'm just not cut out to be a leader. I'm not much for hugging it out and telling them its ok, the other guy is just a big meany, and that if they don't want to go to the hot smelly desert then they don't have to, because they're attractive. LOL
 
whitneyj said:
Then I'd say you need to drop the pan, clean the bejesus out of the sealing surfaces, hi-tack spray both sealing surfaces and both sides of the gasket, locktite the bolts and give it the proper 3 stage torque cycle. The only time I've had one leak after that was either a wrapped pan or the dipstick tube seal was leaking and running around the pan gasket making it look like a pan leak. I had a flat forehead for a while after that one (beating my head against my desk)
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My brain tells me it has to be the dipstick tube seal, because the oil is only on the front part of the pan and it started leaking the day after I got it back from the exhaust shop connecting the downpipe, but its dry as a bone.
 
Has anyone ever told you that AF requires the 100 question test to have 24-26% "A" answers...24-26% "B" answers and so on and so forth......That is all I use the scratch paper for.

7 of the 19 chapters can be torn out, just sayin
 
SHughes said:
Has anyone ever told you that AF requires the 100 question test to have 24-26% "A" answers...24-26% "B" answers and so on and so forth......That is all I use the scratch paper for.

7 of the 19 chapters can be torn out, just sayin
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I've heard that, but never from anyone with your time in, so I never believed it. I may keep track this year. I think every chapter can be torn out, and not effect my job AT ALL LOL
 
SHughes said:
I wouldn't go that far.
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I don't know. I've never known anyone who opened it until they had to study for tech. Whatever stuff that's in there about leading and taking care of troops, should just be basic human nature and common sense. So I guess it is needed these days lol

And now we aren't talking about leaking gaskets at all LOL
 
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