I want shop pictures..

Making some progress .

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Been working on the roof tin the past 3 days, south side is done, with 5 sheets on the North side.
It'll be closed in soon, then I can get on with the inside stuff.
 

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Subbin in on this one. Great thread so far guys! I plan to build a new home and shop in the next 2 years. I'd love to go as big as some of you but I need to go with what I can swing. Maybe a storage building will be in the works down the road. Currently my thoughts are leaning toward a 26'x42' attached garage with 3 12'w x 9' doors. I really don't want to have to walk outside all the time. I also don't want to need a "house" and "shop" set of tools. I'm leaning toward radiant floor heating because I like the idea of it drying up all the slop that gets drug in. 2 of the 3 bays would be used by daily driver vehicles so I really am interested in the radiant floor. I'd like to leave it open enough so the 3rd bay could have a 2 post. So ceiling height definitely comes into play.

Currently my house with attached garage is in the 24'x30 range and it isn't big enough. Just truck, wifes car, yard equipment and tools take up the entire thing.

With tow mirrors in but not tucked how is it pulling into a 10,11&12' door?
 
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I've been Thinking of using some Sea Containers for a shop. My idea isn't new, but I'd like to pour a slab and put 2 stacked 40 footers on each side and either truss the roof or build a nice span floor that would hold a load for a attic storage . Thinking a 40x40 or 80x40. Not sure if its cheaper in long run the containers can be had for around $2000 -$2500 each. so your looking at $8-10k for a 40x40 plus end walls, doors, roof, slab, and outside insulation and furring, siding etc...double that for the 80 foot deep vs a stick or steel traditional building. I've seen them do similar low tech Garages down in NYC. You can spray foam the outside and furr it for regular vinyl siding or?... Figured the 16' height of the double stacked Containers would be decent, with the possibility of several storage rooms in the stacked containers etc.. Figure the slab may need beefing on outside where the containers its and if I added a lift under the lift locations Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Deo
 
Roof is done just have the east gable tin and overhead door to sort out and we will b.e weatherproof.
 

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60x60x14 with in floor heat. Still getting everything organized but the end is in sight.

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Office not moved into yet.
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1/2 machine room with A/C
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Other half of machine room. Still have to get racking up.
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Clean room with ventilation for building injectors/pumps. Also A/C
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Shop bathroom with sink, urinal, toilet, washer/dryer, and shower? Hells yes
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Utility room with air compressor, furnace for in floor heat, electrical, and water softener.
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How much extra was your concrete with the floor heat? Trying to figure out if it'll be worth it on a 40x64 building. Still waiting on local concrete companies quotes...
 
Just got my quote for my 50x72 and the 10x44 Lean to and it cost 6500 for everything to install minus the insulated piping to my outside woodstove
 
Shortbus, Very nice set up. How wide are is the divided area and what did you use for your shop air?
 
Good lord that is cheap. Whats the average to have someone put it up for you?

Yea he asked how much extra. That is just for in-floor heat, an I'm not sure on installation cost as ill be doing it myself. If you use Pexheat.com They will supply you with everything you need and diagrams for easy install.
 
Yea he asked how much extra. That is just for in-floor heat, an I'm not sure on installation cost as ill be doing it myself. If you use Pexheat.com They will supply you with everything you need and diagrams for easy install.

I would buy the tubes, manifolds and diagrams from them but that's it, they will sell u a bunch of other crap for plumbing the manifolds to the boiler and pumps and mixing valves that are not needed unless you are going to use a wood boiler. Buy the stapler tool from them though it really makes the job nicer and saves your back.
 
I would buy the tubes, manifolds and diagrams from them but that's it, they will sell u a bunch of other crap for plumbing the manifolds to the boiler and pumps and mixing valves that are not needed unless you are going to use a wood boiler. Buy the stapler tool from them though it really makes the job nicer and saves your back.

Yea I am using wood boiler to heat shops and house. I wish I would have known about that stapler before I used thousands of Zip-ties in my basement! :badidea:
 
Yea I am using wood boiler to heat shops and house. I wish I would have known about that stapler before I used thousands of Zip-ties in my basement! :badidea:

I hear ya, when I did the first 40X60 pour for my shop and house all they had was the screw in holders that went into the foam and my thumb and finger were raw for about a month.
 
Shortbus, Very nice set up. How wide are is the divided area and what did you use for your shop air?

60'x12'. Pex for shop air.

How much extra was your concrete with the floor heat? Trying to figure out if it'll be worth it on a 40x64 building. Still waiting on local concrete companies quotes...

The part that goes in the floor isn't hardly anything extra. Its how you plum it and what kind of heater you use that is the expensive part.

Yea I am using wood boiler to heat shops and house. I wish I would have known about that stapler before I used thousands of Zip-ties in my basement! :badidea:

Stapler is the only way to go!
 
Just got a quote for floor heat installed in concrete for 40x64, including pex tubing, spray foam insulation rather than 2" foam board, manifold, water boiler, etc. and they wanted $23k
 
According to this company that is all they use now, no gaps for heat loss. They said the spray over gravel. This was the first I had heard of this method being used for floor heat.
 
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