"Infamous" 53 block?

Mark Nixon

Mark Nixon

No Savior among the flesh
I picked up a 1997 12 valve the other day and stripped it to a very basic shortblock.
In so doing, I noticed a small "53" on the passenger's front corner, hidden under the A/C compressor bracket.

I was under the impression that these "53" blocks only started with the 24 valve in later '98?
Interesting to note, it does have the crank sensor port on the driver's side of the block and the truck was built in late July of '97.

Maybe it's just as well that the engine had smoked the turbo and killed the bottom end?:nail:
It wasnt leaking and I don't see any cracks.

Is there such a thing as a "good" 53 block?

Mark.
 
i have a 98 12 with a 53 block it just turned over 400000 miles no cracks on the other hand i had a 1999 with a 53 and it took a **** under 100000 miles
 
I'm wondering if there are "early" and "late" blocks and if the early ones weren't stronger than the "late", or 24 valve blocks?
I'm just sure I have seen the later 53 blocks with a larger "53" cast into it, plus the sides of the casting on the later ones have a distinct, almost rough look to them.

This one looks very much like my early 12 valve VE blocks in every sense, EXCEPT for having the crank sensor hole.
It's cast "BRAZIL", if that matters?

It's neither here nor there to me.
This one ate a turbo, and #5 cylinder looks like it was used to smelt down aluminum, which is partly true, because the piston is hideous looking and it turns REALLY hard.

I was just baffled by the "53" on that early of a block.

Mark.
 
I've never read about a 97' or earlier with a "53" block.

Anything is possible I guess, but are you sure that's the original motor that came in the truck?
 
Well, the CPL tag has a date of 7-15-1997 on it and the CPL number is 2174.

I wouldn't bet my life on it being the original engine, but the doorjamb tag also had a 7-97 date on it, as well.

The engine had most definitely been worked on at least once, as the head had been off it, as well as the timing case had been removed, by the inordinate amount of red sealer behind it.
Stupid dowel pin still wasn't tabbed, even though it had been all apart.

I suppose someone could have tossed a shortblock at it, but it STILL didn't have the crank sensor tone ring bolted on it and no indications that there ever was one.
It's even still all-standard on the bores and crank.

Anyway, I'll pull the rods from it, if they are brazilian, and scuttle the block and crank for scrap.
Might do the head that way, too, it's full of aluminum on number 5.

Mark.
 
As I recall, the CPL TAG is attached to the timing case. If someone where to put a "53" block from a newer year in that truck, they would have had to reuse the timing case and therefore the CPL would match even though the block is a mismatch. The red silicone is suspicious, along with the crank sensor hole.....

Just saying that I don't think the CPL number means anything, unless it is permanently attached to the block.

Good luck on the rebuild, sounds like you've got it under control.
 
Big Blue24 said:
As I recall, the CPL TAG is attached to the timing case. If someone where to put a "53" block from a newer year in that truck, they would have had to reuse the timing case and therefore the CPL would match even though the block is a mismatch. The red silicone is suspicious, along with the crank sensor hole.....

Just saying that I don't think the CPL number means anything, unless it is permanently attached to the block.
Click to expand...
I quite agree.
Upon looking real close, the shortblock likely has been changed out once.
With 390,000 miles plus, anything is possible.

Big Blue24 said:
Good luck on the rebuild, sounds like you've got it under control.
Click to expand...
It's well under control.

The '97 shortblock and likely the head are scrap iron.
The block COULD be bored and re-used, but why take a chance with a "53"?
The head is full of aluminun around #5 exhaust valve, but I have seen much worse come out just fine, yet I have lower miles nice stuff here.
Why fight with a potential piece of scrap?

All the P-7100 peripherals will likely end up on a 130,000 mile 1991-1/2 with a missing pump and turbo.
I'll end up putting an HE351CW on that, and look around for a decent deal on some 100-150 horse injectors and do a few pump adjustments.

My goal is @ 250-350 ponies at the wheels with a P-pump, which most guys here can do with their eyes closed. :D
I prefer my VE pumps, but I wanta' give a P pump a try.

It's all likely going into an '82 1 ton I'm converting to 4x4, with an NV5600, 4.10s and a Dana 80 rear.

Money willing, of course. LOL

Mark.
 
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Does it have the second drain and extra bosses on the passenger side of the block?

Unless the block/head/crank are truly scrap, why not sell them for $50 each? Hot tank the head and the aluminum will dissolve away.
 
Tate, I'd considered offering it all up, already offered the rods in the F/S section.
I'm kinda' leery about stuff that has been ran out of oil, more so than stuff that has obvious damage, like a dropped valve, or a tossed rod.

I've seen blocks of other types that LOOKED fine, but get them to the machine shop and they have a crack in a main oiling passage, or a crack across a deck, then you really do end up having scrap.

With a "53" block being a "problem part" to begin with, it's already de-valued to under $100 and cleaning it just to INSPECT it costs around $40-$50 and that's not including magging it.

The head I feel more confident about, it's probably okay.

Mark.
 
I meant to mention that it DOES have the 2nd turbo oil drain.

I just got finished pulling it clear apart to get the lifters out, and to check bearing damage and I am totally SHOCKED at what I found!

The crank is a Brazilian piece and other than some bearing debris on it, it looks almost untouched!
None of the bearings spun in the rods, nor the block, the crank is still standard and the rods even seem to be unhurt!

Number 5 piston is a totally different story, there are no top rings, the pistons looks for the world like it was melted then allowed to re-harden.
There is a crack running from the top of the piston clear down one long side of the skirt, essentially it's cracked top to bottom, along with the meltdown.

I'll get a pic of the piston and post it, as it's quite possibly the worst I've seen in an engine that DIDN'T lose a rod.

Even the #5 bore looks save-able, though I haven't checked for a crack, due to the large amount of aluminum stuck to the bore.

Mark.
 
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Stupid thing is, I have a 2000 "55" block from a 12 valve application, and the darned thing looks IDENTICAL to this "53" block, but I understand they are the preferred block to replace the "53" with?

This "55" is definitely trashed, though.
It dropped a valve in #4 cylinder, killed the head and split the cylinder.

Looks like I have some cast iron to off. :D

Mark.
 
I thought if it had dual turbo drain holes it was a storm block and was stronger. Mine is a 98 12v with dual drains and a series of small numbers on the driver side front. Rich
 
Are you telling me I should probably hang onto this block, or sell it rather than scrap it?

I figured a "53" block was a "53" block. All junk.

Mark.
 
Does this help? http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm
They way I understand it, the Brazilian company used the two digit numbers to tell which machine the blocks were cast in. (all though I cant seem to find where I read that) Maybe they didn't have trouble with any of the blocks cast on machine #53 until they started making the 24V blocks?
FWIW the 53 block in my '99 made it to 204,000 mi when I noticed the crack. by 235,000 I could no longer keep coolant in it.:lolly:
 
This "53" I have doesn't have the tall "53" like he shows.
Instead, it's on the PASSENGER'S side, tucked in under the water inlet-A/C bracket and is, at MOST, 1/2" tall.

I'll get you guys pics.

Mark.
 
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