Intake airflow without milling

bluthndr

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Mar 16, 2008
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Just curious if anyone ever researched or tried doing anything in between milling the intake off, and just using a stock "intake" with one of the "dual ram" style air horns?

I mean, there is decent access under the intake "plate" to do things to the floor or even the underside of the plate (the ceiling) to redirect more air to the outboard cylinders?

Sure milling the intake off will always be the best, but by the time you're done you're a solid $2k (at least) plus into it with lines and all, and a guy with $200 of tubing and access to a tig on the other end of the spectrum. That leaves a huge range of middle ground for something in between. I'm surprised no one (that I know of) has even experimented with casting/welding a plate with some directional "fins" (for lack of a better word) to send air to #1 and #6.

I'm talking about something like a "turtle" (open plenum, single plane carb stuff), or the way they extend the center dividers into the plenum area on really big single plane manifolds. Seems like there is something to be gained there, maybe even economically.

I'd research myself, but the only guy I know where I could get near a flow bench doesn't want to touch any of this stuff because "those heads are too damn heavy." He's an older guy who is plenty busy doing gas stuff anyways...

Just curious if anyone else had ever looked into this?
 
Just curious if anyone ever researched or tried doing anything in between milling the intake off, and just using a stock "intake" with one of the "dual ram" style air horns?

I mean, there is decent access under the intake "plate" to do things to the floor or even the underside of the plate (the ceiling) to redirect more air to the outboard cylinders?

Sure milling the intake off will always be the best, but by the time you're done you're a solid $2k (at least) plus into it with lines and all, and a guy with $200 of tubing and access to a tig on the other end of the spectrum. That leaves a huge range of middle ground for something in between. I'm surprised no one (that I know of) has even experimented with casting/welding a plate with some directional "fins" (for lack of a better word) to send air to #1 and #6.

I'm talking about something like a "turtle" (open plenum, single plane carb stuff), or the way they extend the center dividers into the plenum area on really big single plane manifolds. Seems like there is something to be gained there, maybe even economically.

I'd research myself, but the only guy I know where I could get near a flow bench doesn't want to touch any of this stuff because "those heads are too damn heavy." He's an older guy who is plenty busy doing gas stuff anyways...

Just curious if anyone else had ever looked into this?

I think Mr. Hamilton would have some good input on this having done flow testing on the stock heads.

It's probably been done already but, I would imagine the top of the intake plenum could be opened more and some sort of a quad ram style intake plate and horn fabricated. Not sure how that would compare to the cost of milling the plenum off and building a side-mounted manifold setup after all the work is done.

I think my train of thought is similar to yours. Just re-worded. :lolly:
 
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I'm talking about something like a "turtle" (open plenum, single plane carb stuff), or the way they extend the center dividers into the plenum area on really big single plane manifolds. Seems like there is something to be gained there, maybe even economically.


Keep in mind that the turtles and divider shapes/lengths are to help equalize fuel charge in the air, not really airflow.
 
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I think most people that could fab a crazy manifold and or rework the plenum would rather do it right and just mill it off.
 
dy8ysuju.jpg

This is Brandon Overmyers. Pretty sure he uses the stock shelf that has been modified a bit. Still does great in 2.6


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dy8ysuju.jpg

This is Brandon Overmyers. Pretty sure he uses the stock shelf that has been modified a bit. Still does great in 2.6


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Where do the injection lines go? They've got to be long!
 
Just around it. No longer than any custom lines. I need to see if I can find one with lines hold on


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Front 3 go forward and around. Back there go back and over the manifold. Doesn't look to crazy really


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Just curious if anyone ever researched or tried doing anything in between milling the intake off, and just using a stock "intake" with one of the "dual ram" style air horns?

I mean, there is decent access under the intake "plate" to do things to the floor or even the underside of the plate (the ceiling) to redirect more air to the outboard cylinders?

Sure milling the intake off will always be the best, but by the time you're done you're a solid $2k (at least) plus into it with lines and all, and a guy with $200 of tubing and access to a tig on the other end of the spectrum. That leaves a huge range of middle ground for something in between. I'm surprised no one (that I know of) has even experimented with casting/welding a plate with some directional "fins" (for lack of a better word) to send air to #1 and #6.

I'm talking about something like a "turtle" (open plenum, single plane carb stuff), or the way they extend the center dividers into the plenum area on really big single plane manifolds. Seems like there is something to be gained there, maybe even economically.

I'd research myself, but the only guy I know where I could get near a flow bench doesn't want to touch any of this stuff because "those heads are too damn heavy." He's an older guy who is plenty busy doing gas stuff anyways...

Just curious if anyone else had ever looked into this?

The only reason to mill off the stock intake is to gain access to port the intake runners. In post #47 of this thread I show you how to get around that for a decent level of porting.

http://competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168166&page=3&highlight=head+porting

Other than that inside the plenum, all you have to do is grind down the area at cylinder #1 where bolt comes in from the top. And cut out the fuel filter knob at #4.
 
How much can you take off that fuel filter knob.


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Drothgeb that write up is phenomenal, and I love the drill-tap-plug method to get to the #1 port. Honestly never looked over the area under the plate that close until recently - mainly just looked at the bowl area.

Those bumps from the 1st gen filter and the #1 ground bolt are size able restrictions. Thanks much for sharing and making me want to punch myself in the throat for not noticing all of that on my own.


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How much can you take off that fuel filter knob.


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I cut the whole filter knob off with a right angle grinder and seal it with a bolt threaded in from the outside,

Drothgeb that write up is phenomenal, and I love the drill-tap-plug method to get to the #1 port. Honestly never looked over the area under the plate that close until recently - mainly just looked at the bowl area.

Those bumps from the 1st gen filter and the #1 ground bolt are size able restrictions. Thanks much for sharing and making me want to punch myself in the throat for not noticing all of that on my own.

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I drill and plug at #6 too. Just didn't post a picture of it.
 
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