Is This Motor/Head Junk? (KDP/Bent p-rods) Kinda Long Post

T

TRUBBS

Can You Keep Up?
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Feb 15, 2009
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so i finally got my motor to start on building to put into my ford, i bought it knowing that the kdp dropped, here is the "back story" the owner said he was just drivin on the freeway and heard a load 'pop' from the motor as well as it stalled. said he looked and seen that the KDP had attacted (took a big chunk out of the cover) and towed it to the nearest shop where he was ging a quote for 2,500 to fix it. decided that he didnt want to invest anymore money into the truck and plan to part it out. my budy then bought the truck just for the body off of it and had the motor sittin in the shop for a a year or two tell i picked it up this week.

now i got the motor home and started to take in apart to inspect the damage, i havent got the front cover off yet because i need to get a fan wrench so i can get it off but i did pull the v-covers to find 6 bent pushrods (1 per cylinder, the 2nd one) went ahead and pulled the head to check to pistons out and i can not see any damage to any of cylinders. now ide imagine it probably has bent valves in the head tho? whats the best way to check just pull them out and look?

what are your guys thoughts on this motor?

edit- i tried to BAR the motor oer before i pulled the head to see if the cam was broken but it would only turn over a tiny bit the get stuck. i dunno if its the cam being broke or if osmething is maybe wedged between the gears in the front cover. i can stick my finger in the case where its cracked and the pump gear has alot of wiggle front to back.

as always thank you very much for your input
 
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How much did you get the motor for?

You will probably end up replacing all the valves, cam gear, gear housing, and camshaft, push tubes, possibly the injector pump gear depending on how bad. So, figure out what its going to cost to fix this motor then decide if its worth it.
 
CSnyder said:
dowel probably got the cam gear.
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thats what i figured probably happened

would you mind shootin me a pm on what it would cost to get this head done?

YOUNG GUNS15 said:
How much did you get the motor for?

You will probably end up replacing all the valves, cam gear, gear housing, and camshaft, push tubes, possibly the injector pump gear depending on how bad. So, figure out what its going to cost to fix this motor then decide if its worth it.
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i only paid 400 bucks for the motor.
its a fistgen engine that im going to P-pump. i got a new front case already, push tubes on order and was already plannin on having this head rebuilt and possible having it ported/polished/oringed while it was their and i wanted to upgrade the cam so all in all it still isnt looking THAT BAD for me, just kinda lookin like a few forced upgrades ha
 
You can take the whole fan mount off with the 4 10mm bolts. Don't really need the fan wrench.

Spin the valves in a drill to see if they are bent.
 
CaptainChrysler said:
You can take the whole fan mount off with the 4 10mm bolts. Don't really need the fan wrench.
i didnt know that, thank you. can ya tell im powerstroke guy? haha

Spin the valves in a drill to see if they are bent.
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would ya explain how would i go about doing that? the head is off already, i assume you mean completly pull the valves out and then use the drill
 
Not from what I could see. Didn't look to be an valve marks on tops I'm going to take a closer look tomorrow tho just to be sure. How well will the autozone valve spring compresor work do you think?
 
How come? I already got most the stuff for the swap and I was already planning on doing cam and head work so I don't really see much reason to not go ahead with this motor? Unless I'm missin a hiden problem that's going to bite me in the @$$ later on?
 
What year is it? Sounds like your already on the way to getting it redone so might as well. I got my new-er (200k miles) long block for 800 bucks.

I would just get new valves instead of screwing around with those. actually you can find good used sets for under 100 bucks sometimes. I actually got my used ones for 75 bucks with the locks, retainers, 6 60# springs and 6 stock springs.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
What year is it? Sounds like your already on the way to getting it redone so might as well. I got my new-er (200k miles) long block for 800 bucks.

I would just get new valves instead of screwing around with those. actually you can find good used sets for under 100 bucks sometimes. I actually got my used ones for 75 bucks with the locks, retainers, 6 60# springs and 6 stock springs.
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its a '93 motor. thats what i was thinking but like i said ive always been a ford guy so i didnt know if their was a hidden problem thats going to come out once the motor is done :doh: for the price i paid i think its worth the gamble to contuine ahead with this motor.

valves- i think thats what im going to try and find is a set of used one. i heard that 24v's stock have 60lb springs, would they work in a 12v or are they different? other then obviously theirs twice as many
 
I would buy a new head, I think you can get them fully loaded with new valves, springs, etc for $500. Then send it over to someone for port and polish, oring's etc.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I would buy a new head, I think you can get them fully loaded with new valves, springs, etc for $500. Then send it over to someone for port and polish, oring's etc.
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i hope none of these post sound like im being a d!ck or anything cuz i been posting on my pos phone so the wording might sound like im being rude but im not at all....

but how come you would get a whole new head and not just rebuild this one? seams like the "core" of the head would still be fine just need to have the valves done?
 
TRUBBS said:
i hope none of these post sound like im being a d!ck or anything cuz i been posting on my pos phone so the wording might sound like im being rude but im not at all....

but how come you would get a whole new head and not just rebuild this one? seams like the "core" of the head would still be fine just need to have the valves done?
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Is that a 93' head? How big are the injector nozzle holes? 9mm? Are there cracks between the injector holes?


If you had a 94' head, I would tell you to rebuild that head if the valve seating area had little to no cracks.

As cheap as new heads are, and as expensive as it is to buy new valves, springs, machine work, etc, why save $50 and have a half cracked rebuilt head when you can have a new one with new everything?
 
Big Blue24 said:
Is that a 93' head? How big are the injector nozzle holes? 9mm? Are there cracks between the injector holes?


If you had a 94' head, I would tell you to rebuild that head if the valve seating area had little to no cracks.

As cheap as new heads are, and as expensive as it is to buy new valves, springs, machine work, etc, why save $50 and have a half cracked rebuilt head when you can have a new one with new everything?
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very true that is the info i was lacking, thank you. i think im just going to go ahead and swap this build around and do a p-pumped 24v using the 12v block/roating assembly and 24v head and pistons
 
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