just need some advice and opinions egr issues

[Dissociative]

ok guys....i'll throw this out there in my own thread so i can tell the full story and ask for advice.

truck.

04 6.0, studs, exhaust, MILD tune, 33's, pcv delete, solid up-pipe, weld egr.

coolant gauge in oil cooler cap reads 245-255
truck puked.. i did up-pipe and tunes and weld..still hot still puked

dealer did oil cooler....still puked..not hot anymore....so went in for studs..ONE YEAR AGO

all the while looming EPA crap may get me so i left egr cooler in place to just flow coolant thinking the welds on the valve will keep all boost out of cooler and thus not pressurize the system. temps return to 210-215 no puking

ONE YEAR LATER......20k miles.....i got some puking...very minor...so..first thing i did was swap to the snow plow fan because i never did that....temps never really got out of control but mabey hit 240 on highway with plow up one or two times.....i did fan as cheap upgrade that may help and certainly not hurt....slight decrease in overall temps by 5 degrees mabey...


i am thinking the crap welds on my valve may be letting boost into the cooler and not out the other end as its capped and possibly pressurizing the system...my tune tops at like 25psi...my race file hit 35 but i didn't like how aggressive it was so i don't run it...GOGO files...........i know how easy it is to get an air leak in a weld and the guy used a mig and was sloppy..


SO......i can't afford 500 for a mani swap out....and the EPA has me worried so i really want to be able to return to stock...i am thinking i want to re-route the coolant and pull the cooler....but i am open to advice.

heres the kit i found that seems ok, i already bought up pipe from FCDP so i don't need to re-buy that again...

Item number: 190380079811

my questions are, is there something i missed checking?..ECT is normal...EOT gauge is on the way....but reads normal via scan tool.....is there a better way to do this without spending 500 and welding on the mani?...
i know GOGO intake routes coolant directly from EOC to the degass....is there a bolt on kit for just that that caps cooler and coolant lines in intake and uses a hose on the EOC?....

not a toy...daily driver....very broke currently.....but need to find out id heads are bad again it's getting dumped so whats my best plan?.

do i throw the kit to 180 the coolant on it?.....or do i throw a spool valve to completely rule out intake boost from the cooler?..

valve?..Item number: 280354215158..would this be better sealed than the welds on my egr and possibly be a quicker way to the same end of finding out weather or not the intake is boosting the coolant or the heads. ??

 

[Dissociative]

i guess its also time to pull valve and look again for coolant but it was not there a year ago.

i know there is the issue of flow and flash boiling in the EO cooler.....but if my temps never really get out of spec i think i can rule out that.......i do not understand if the cooler really flows that bad or as i have been told it flows good enough for a slightly modded truck like mine.........i mean if it was flowing to slowly woudn't my coolant temps be jacking up easily in the oil cooler?...

is it possible for the cooler to have a tiny leak and the egr valve to have a tiny leak letting the boost puke the degas only when its high 20-25 for a while....am i crazy?

 

[texascadillac42]

When you did your head studs, did you have the heads decked, or at least checked for flatness? Who did the stud install? Can you guarantee it was done correctly?

 

[Dissociative]

When you did your head studs, did you have the heads decked, or at least checked for flatness? Who did the stud install? Can you guarantee it was done correctly?

done at a decent ford dealer that was said to have a good rep.

no confirmation on any head checking or decking...

slipped the guy 500 to do a good job, he left a lot of top side junk loose (batteries, cac hose, coolant filter mount) but i can only hope the motor was done well......


this is why i am kinda worried about how much IF any i throw at mods....believe me i want a full stage 2 mani...but not now...

still wondering whats the better plan....80 for a spool valve....

or 250 and pull intake all off for egr cooler delete.....if it flows fine why do it?...(that is if the spool will definitely seal all boost OUT...will it??)

if i can spool valve it and then be ok i will........but if the cooler really slows the flow down that much wouldn;t i see a build up of temp in the cap sensor there?...is soon as i beat on it up to 225 and cool out it drops fairly fast to 200 easily.....seems to flow quick enough to me?.....yes?..no?.....do i need the metal tube to really flow that much more?..i may be ignorant here..

keep in mind.....solid up-pipe already and capped cooler in rear....no hot stuff

 

[texascadillac42]

If the heads were not checked for flatness, then the best head studs in the world won't help you. Decked heads are a MUST for proper head stud/head gasket installs.

What exactly are you worried about with the EPA?

Get rid of the EGR valve, get rid of the EGR cooler. 2 things that you don't need.