Ladder Bars
- Thread starter Signature600
- Start date
cummins724
BREAKING $HIT
Atleast we can try to laugh about it. I can't wait till he gets it figured out. "YOU'RE MY BOY BLUE!"
Someday...Maybe...When pigs fly...blue moon...hell freezes over... you know all the impossible things. LOL J/K
Billysgoat
The ANTI-BLING!
Chris, give Jesse at Farmboy fab a shout, he might be able to hook you up.
Ya'll need to quit picking on poor Tyler...my cheeks hurt from laughing at all the swift kicks to the groin he takes on a daily basis LOL LOL
Ya'll need to quit picking on poor Tyler...my cheeks hurt from laughing at all the swift kicks to the groin he takes on a daily basis LOL LOL
Signature600
THA MAN!
I was actually thinking of doing that...I will as soon as I get a free minute!
Thanks Billy,
Chris
Billysgoat
The ANTI-BLING!
Dan (DCSpecial) has a lot of good things to say about his products, and as ticky as he is that takes some doing LOL
cummins724
BREAKING $HIT
It is all out of fun, not trying to upset Tyler believe me. I try to help him by giving ideas. I really hope he gets that thing fixed soon though, its making us all look bad. The Ford/D-max guys must love it. They bring out a stock truck & post better numbers than a tuned up Cummins=bragging rights.LOL
Jess@FarmboyFab
DC's idol
But how much can your really trust Dan?? :doh:
Better, far from it...better for a specific task...depends on the task.
Sled pulling...single is going to be better on most setups. Short version:
It depends on your setup, and how its acting right now, to judge what effect each style will have on your truck.
Single bar, compression forces, less chance of bending (given equal materials). Force on the frame is dependent of the overall angle and length of the bar. This ties into the weight transfer to the tires...thus pressure at the tires contact patch.
Visualize two extremes.
The shorter/steeper the bar, the more the bars pushes up on the rearend, and down on the rear tires. Too much direct (through the bar, not the spring) pressure on the tires leads to at times, wheelhop, and even shockload/breakage.
A longer/flatter bar will direct its forces forward into the frame, thus pushing the frame forward. This far forward frame mount leaves a lot of untouched weight sitting over the rear. This weight still goes into that tire patch, but has the spring to dampen any imperfections it may hit, or tendency to bounce. However, the frontend can tend to become very light depending on the exact setup. Also, on very soft leafs, the upward rotation of the pinion will try to force the axle to pivot on the traction bar mount, and pull the leaf spring backwards....this could still give you that unwanted vibration. Single bars will tend to work best on a stiffer spring, or a setup with some block...as the further the traction bar pivot is from the leaf spring...the more the leaf spring would have to pull back to equal the same amount of pinion rotation.
Triangulated, upward bending forces. Higher chance of bending and weld failure. Force pushes upward on the frame. (the chance of the rear end jacking up or staying level will depend on the frame mounting point; as it changes the balance, but also loses much of its upward force with the length of the bar...less force at the end of a lever arm) Realistically...the rear wont jack up, but also does not push forward on the frame. This style allows the most un-restricted motion of the rear leaf springs, thus the best ride quality (you wouldnt really tell a difference from this to a long single bar). Hands down the best for a strictly street driven vehicle...or something with very soft springs, as it controls the pinion angle, where the single bar utilizes the leaf spring as its upper link.
There is no formula for the perfect bar like people will say...even if there was, there would be too many variables to ever get a consistent answer. It all is based on the overall balance of the vehicles weight (front, rear, COG), suspension geometry and spring rate, how much force is applied, and where that force is applied. It all acts in such a way, that you just need to be able to get a feel of what lengths and styles are going to get close enough to that sweet spot to give the handling characteristics you want. This can also include much more than just traction bars.
Did i bore everyone? Just my take on it anyways...and im by no means an expert.
- Jesse
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Lostnwalmart
New member
your what hurts?????
Signature600
THA MAN!
Haha...forklift
Jesse,
Since you offered your input...for a street driven, drag racer, stock ride height or maybe a little lower, it sounds like the double bar might be better suited for this application. Or did I not understand much?
Thanks for the help
Chris
Jess@FarmboyFab
DC's idol
Haha...forklift
Jesse,
Since you offered your input...for a street driven, drag racer, stock ride height or maybe a little lower, it sounds like the double bar might be better suited for this application. Or did I not understand much?
Thanks for the help
Chris
I typically like them more on the taller trucks...stock height you can easily get away with a single bar, usually much cheaper.
If you dont tow that many HEAVY loads, and arent in very harsh (tons of nasty salt and grime) conditions, you could do just fine with some self lubricating heims top and bottom...otherwise, get some greasable joints for the conditions.
cummins724
BREAKING $HIT
Thanks for all of your help with this thread. Would you happen to know where to get some kind of a top link with a rubber bushing? I have greaseable heims for the bottom [axle], but want to get a link with a bushing to mount to the frame. I've heard that they vibrate & make noise if you don't have rubber bushings up top.
Jess@FarmboyFab
DC's idol
Are you putting a shackle up there or fixed mount?
cummins724
BREAKING $HIT
I am gonna do a fixed mount I think.
Billysgoat
The ANTI-BLING!
Jesse, thanks, I just learnt me sumthin' (We really need a gaptoothed redneck smiley LOL )
(We really need a gaptoothed redneck smiley LOL )
Jess@FarmboyFab
DC's idol
I like to use a gyro joint if you need a lot of rubber around the joint. Greasable and endless misalignment also...very nice. You have a choice of 2 softnesses of rubber also.
I weld on sides to the saddle peice when i use them for my bars.
You could probably get away with a johnny joint also up there, but its a very thin poly bushing, greasable.
Any self lubricating or greasable joint shouldnt really squeak if they are kept up...i havent had that issue yet.