Lowered 2nd gen track bar
- Thread starter 40ray
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CorneliusRox
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- Dec 13, 2012
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The right way would be to do a "3rd gen" style frame mount with a double sheer, then have a threaded heim (ballistic joint, what have you) at the axle, and have the bar bent to avoid the differential.
The cheap way that would work 95% as well would be to make a new mount just to the passenger side of the diff and just above it and then cut/weld up your stock track bar with a sleeve over the cut area.
The cheap way that would work 95% as well would be to make a new mount just to the passenger side of the diff and just above it and then cut/weld up your stock track bar with a sleeve over the cut area.
CorneliusRox
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- Dec 13, 2012
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Currently it's mounted at the frame on the drivers side, and on the lower side of the axle on the passenger side. It's got very similar geometry to the drag link to avoid excessive bump steer.
Since you lowering, stiffening, and limiting suspension, you're in a different boat than the average guy. That means you can shorten your track bar (which will make it stiffer). I would suggest to weld a new mount to the passenger side of your differential, at the top instead of the stock one. This would let you avoid bending the tube around the differential (which would stiffen it even more). It's take length away, obviously, and that would give you more bump steer per inch of suspension travel, but you're likely not going to see a ton of suspension travel, so it won't matter much. And the gained stiffness of this setup will help avoid getting death wobble when you're pumping a lot of power through the front wheels. I'd also recommend a 4th gen style 'crossover steering' setup (inverted T vs the standard Inverted Y). That'll help your toe-in not to change during suspension travel, and it'll remove some slack in the system. It will increase bump steer, but just slightly.
I'd recommend doing a double sheer bushing at the top, and a 3/4" heim joint at the bottom. That's what I've got with my 37's and it works great.
Since you lowering, stiffening, and limiting suspension, you're in a different boat than the average guy. That means you can shorten your track bar (which will make it stiffer). I would suggest to weld a new mount to the passenger side of your differential, at the top instead of the stock one. This would let you avoid bending the tube around the differential (which would stiffen it even more). It's take length away, obviously, and that would give you more bump steer per inch of suspension travel, but you're likely not going to see a ton of suspension travel, so it won't matter much. And the gained stiffness of this setup will help avoid getting death wobble when you're pumping a lot of power through the front wheels. I'd also recommend a 4th gen style 'crossover steering' setup (inverted T vs the standard Inverted Y). That'll help your toe-in not to change during suspension travel, and it'll remove some slack in the system. It will increase bump steer, but just slightly.
I'd recommend doing a double sheer bushing at the top, and a 3/4" heim joint at the bottom. That's what I've got with my 37's and it works great.