M&h fuel pin or denny t

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blake12v

blake12v

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Ok i have 91 cummins and i have the money for a fuel pin i am going to be putting on a hx35 monday. And i wanted to know which fuel pin is better. And if i use on of these fuel pins what do i have to change to make it work i have stock injectors. I dont have a pyro or any kinda gauges should i get some before i do any mods to my truck
 
Newbie questions you'll probably get crap for.

Either fuel pin is functional and an easy installation, nothing else needs to be done to see a benefit from it. I'd like to see DennyT get the business since he's brought more first gen R&D to the table recently than anybody else but that's not much relevant.

Since you're new you definitely want gauges to get a feel for what the engine's doing when and what kind of changes your modifications are doing.

There's a world of things you can do to the truck above and beyond a fuel cone. Read a bunch on the 1st Gen forum here.
 
ok thanks. i have always heard good things about the denny t pins i am going to get on of them. also what about the 3200 rpm spring is it good to have.
 
The spring is also good to have. On a stock auto truck with the stock 130 RWHP don't expect to notice much, it's most noticeable once you have the pump turned up some.

The biggest thing on the pump is the "fuel screw" in the back of it, that's about 100 HP. The fuel cone might add 20 HP or so, and really doesn't do anything that can't be done through modification of the stock fuel cone.

Expect to spend more money on turbocharging, driveline and keeping a 20+ year old truck alive than anything else.
 
good word of friendly advice.. be aware youve been enlightened to pending rookie question consequences..
 
Just take the stock pin out and grind it up on a bench grinder, dremel, angle grinder what ever then smooth it back out. way cheaper!!
 
I agree on grinding it. Save yourself money. You ll want a p pump on it one day anyway haha.
 
Grinding a stock pin wont give you as much as the other aftermarket pins due to the eccentric on the stock pin. Just make sure the one you get is hardend....
 
My holidays were great how were yours? Not much is new just enjoying this nice weather and trying to get my truck ready for harrisburg. Am i gonna see you guys there this year?
 
I know you re right grinding probably wont get you the same proper profile as the aftermarket ones but i was agreeing its a cheap alternative and does work pretty good. You re right tho.
 
i dont wanna mess up my old fuel pin by grinding it down and then have to buy a new any ways. so i gonna give Denny T some of my money. i have heard nothing but good things about his products. thanks for the help guys
 
Yea i think thats a good choice. Honestly i dont think you can go wrong with either i ve heard nothing but good about both. I think if you adjust on the fuel screw and put that 3200 gov spring in it you ll be pretty happy. maybe put in a mild set of injectors and like said before definately get yourself a pyro to keep an eye on things.
 
i am having trouble finding a mild set of injectors. i cause i dont know what i am looking for.LOL and for the fuel screw i have always been kinda nervous to mess with it because of the runaway. how many turns do i put on it.
 
The fuel screw i was told you can run it all the way in then back it off a quarter to a half turn and you ll be ok. and if thats too much you can adjust accordingly.
 
As for the injectors i saw a good price on some at cumminsperformanceparts.com. call jamie he ll get you fixed up. As for what size to get someone else has to chime in because my ve pump came off my truck pretty quickly.
 
When you do the fuel screw, take the air filter tube off the front of the turbo and have someone there with a 2x4 or a piece of plywood to put over the turbo inlet in case it tries to run away. If it is intercooled, you can bottom it out and not have any issues with runaway. If it's a non-intercooled engine, you will need to leave it backed out a bit. Also, when you turn the screw in you will have to adjust the idle down as it will want to idle faster.
 
loganp said:
When you do the fuel screw, take the air filter tube off the front of the turbo and have someone there with a 2x4 or a piece of plywood to put over the turbo inlet in case it tries to run away. If it is intercooled, you can bottom it out and not have any issues with runaway. If it's a non-intercooled engine, you will need to leave it backed out a bit. Also, when you turn the screw in you will have to adjust the idle down as it will want to idle faster.
Click to expand...

Having a board ready is a good idea if you are messing with the fuel rate on any diesel. Any pump can run away, I wouldn't tell somebody it can't happen, there is always the possibility of "other unknown fuel sources" as well. With the right adjustments things get just as scary with the intercooled pumps as well. Once the dirt is on the rods... nobody is happy. There are a few different lengths of fuel screws for the VE and you just never know what someone might have done to a pump before you, like weld up the end of it and leave the tamper collar on.

I watched a youtube video the other night of a 4-53 detroit running off, the guy wasn't ready for the possibility. The guy ended up grabbing a piece of thin rubber material to block flow into the charger, barely stoppped the motor, just about lost his fingers. He had a funny look when he was looking at the turbo afterwards. He must have damaged the wheel. He was lucky that's all that happened.
 
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Point, I stand corrected. There should be a lesser possibility of it running away if it is intercooled.
 
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